# 2003 Ford Focus questions



## princesstacey (Jul 25, 2007)

Does anyone know where the low side air conditioner charging fitting is located on a 2003 Ford Focus? 
And.. any ideas what could be causing my car to overheat when idle? The thermostat is apparently fine, the fluids are ok, but it overheats when I am stopped for more than a few secs or when driving at a consistent low speed. Used to be that if I turned on the heater it would cool down. Now I need to actually increase speed without stopping for it to cool down. 
Any help would be appreciated!


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

How many miles? Is this only with the A/C running, or anytime?

The water pump could have eaten some of the impeller and not be providing proper cooling at low speeds. There could also be a blockage in the cooling system. Finally, the hoses could be old and collapsing to restrict the coolant flow. Have you ever had the cooling system flushed? Does this car have an electric fan or a belt driven fan? Could the belt be loose and not giving sufficient airflow at low speeds?


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## princesstacey (Jul 25, 2007)

Thanks for your insight! The hoses are in good condition. Not sure what kind of drive the fans have, but an aquaintence told me to check the cooling fan fuse/relay so I will be doing that today. If the fuse is not burnt then I will take your advice and have the system flushed.No, I've never had it done before - honestly, I haven't had the car professionally serviced, just by friends that are able to keep my car running due to an issue I have w/ Ford and their unwillingness to admit that certain parts of the focus are defective ( ignition lock/tumblers lock unable to turn key, etc.)and since they won't (already asked) service my car without fixing the ignition- @$380 ( can't buy the part at auto parts store- have to go through dealer service?), I do what I can myself and luckily so far have had help with what I can't. It's the principle of the matter. However that doesn't mean much if my car totally dies on me, right? 
Anyway, is flushing the cooling system something that can be done easily, or do I have to give in and go to Ford? 
Thanks again!


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

The 2003 Ford Focus does use electric fans. Do you ever see the fans running?

Flushing the cooling system is something that can be done at home. It's best to mount a flushing fixture in one of the hoses to do the best job. It's also a procedure that any mechanic can do easily.

There is lots of information on the Internet about the design issues with the ignition switch, and apparently there is a class action lawsuit in CA. Also, a suggestion is made that a locksmith may be able to fix it cheaper than Ford. http://www.fordproblems.com/Focus/key-wont-turn-in-the-ignition.shtml

Finally, here's a place that claims to have ignition switches for the Focus pretty cheap: http://www.car-stuff.com/cs_auto/mm...e4a7e90676a&roikwd=Ford+Focus+Ignition+Switch


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## rameam (Mar 15, 2003)

It does sound like the fan is not running. It should run constantly when the A/C is on, otherwise only when temp reaches a certain level. Had a Chrysler mini van that unbeknown to me had a broken clip on the cooling fan connector. It came loose and before I could get to a service station, the motor fried. So make sure the fan is running.


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## kiwiguy (Aug 17, 2003)

Perhaps this thread should be read in conjunction with the other one
http://forums.techguy.org/do-yourself-projects/600635-one-more-question-brake-light.html

It's possible that power to essential accessories bus has been lost, which may include both the brake lights and the cooling fans supply.

From reading the posts, it suggests a multimeter may not be in use, or the brake light switch would not have shown as faulty (other thread).


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## bonzobob999 (Nov 24, 2004)

Ive had a couple of Focus.......even on Idle the fan should kick in, if not then you could test the feed to the fan with a circuit tester if you get a reading after a while then you know its the fan.

As for the Air con..........http://www.focushacks.com/index.php?modid=85 this is a useful site anyway.


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## CAROLINA JOE (Sep 19, 2006)

The cooling fan on most ford products are controlled by 2 ways. 1 Engine temp, 2. Pressure control switch that is located on the evaporator or dryer. The low side of the system is located by a "Blue" cap.(Big line) High side is "Red"(Small line). As a general rule the high side is the small line and should be hot while running. The low side will or should be cold. If both are Hot you have a dryer or compressor problem. You can test the switch by unpluging it and put a jump wire between the two connectors inside the plug. Even though the A/C works, the sincor for the fan might not. When you Jump the plug, the compressor should kick on as well as the fan. If the A/C runs and the fan motor wont, Its more common for the fan motor to go out than the switch. New fan motor is about 50.00 at any discount auto part store.If your A/C isnt working and you cant afford to get it repaired, you can run the fan by direct wire to the fan motor(after testing switch) This process is just good ole southern back yard fix-er-up (Not recommended..lol) but will work if motor is good.
As for the ignition, You might ask a locksmith for a shot of graphite. Or you can get it at most hardware stores. Never use oil in ignition or door lock.(Auto). Oil will cause grunge to build up and cause further problems. Hope this helps, Joe


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## thefonz (Aug 26, 2007)

CAROLINA JOE said:


> The cooling fan on most ford products are controlled by 2 ways. 1 Engine temp, 2. Pressure control switch that is located on the evaporator or dryer. The low side of the system is located by a "Blue" cap.(Big line) High side is "Red"(Small line). As a general rule the high side is the small line and should be hot while running. The low side will or should be cold. If both are Hot you have a dryer or compressor problem. You can test the switch by unpluging it and put a jump wire between the two connectors inside the plug. Even though the A/C works, the sincor for the fan might not. When you Jump the plug, the compressor should kick on as well as the fan. If the A/C runs and the fan motor wont, Its more common for the fan motor to go out than the switch. New fan motor is about 50.00 at any discount auto part store.If your A/C isnt working and you cant afford to get it repaired, you can run the fan by direct wire to the fan motor(after testing switch) This process is just good ole southern back yard fix-er-up (Not recommended..lol) but will work if motor is good.
> As for the ignition, You might ask a locksmith for a shot of graphite. Or you can get it at most hardware stores. Never use oil in ignition or door lock.(Auto). Oil will cause grunge to build up and cause further problems. Hope this helps, Joe


Hey there carolina joe, first post here, but I have to disagree with you on the graphite. Do not use it!!! These locks come from the factory with a thick grease and the mix with graphite is just more trouble.
And to the op, most times the locksmith will be cheaper. If they can't give you a quote over the phone, (even if it is a high and low range) call someone else. The lock cylinder is relatively cheap, the high cost is in R&R of the lock cylinder.


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## CAROLINA JOE (Sep 19, 2006)

Welcome to the forum. The ignition switches I have worked didn't have grease in the tumblers them selves. There is grease in the body of the switch but never seen any in the tumblers before. Thanks for the info.


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## thefonz (Aug 26, 2007)

Thanks for the welcome. This is a pretty cool site.


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

I'd be somewhat surprised to see grease in the tumblers, since the wimpy springs used in the lock would have problems in that case. I've had lots of locks apart, including several automotive ignition locks, and I've never seen any grease in the tumblers, not would I expect to find any there.


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## thefonz (Aug 26, 2007)

Well most of them do have grease in them. Go buy a service kit from the dealer and see if they dont have a packet of white grease that comes with the kit. I am a locksmith and we have serviced hundreds and hundreds of locks over the years. And yes the grease does give problems.


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## rameam (Mar 15, 2003)

If the grease is in there, why doesn't it get on the key. I've never seen any on mine.


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

Personally, I think it's hogwash, but I'm going to ask a local locksmith about it. I've rekeyed a large number of locks for my wife (real estate sales), and I never saw a bit of grease in any of the lock cylinders. I've also had a few car tumblers apart, and I never saw grease in those either. If you see how a pin tumbler lock works, you would realize that grease in the tumblers would be a serious problem. The springs that move the tumblers do not have the strength to anything but a very free sliding set of pins. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pin_tumbler_lock


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

Here's the opinion of a locksmith site on-line, falls in line with what I believe to be true.[WEBQUOTE="http://www.essecurity.com/Definitions%20and%20Terms.htm"]*LUBRICATION* On no account should oil be used to lubricate pin-tumbler cylinders. Graphite is the conventional lubricant for this mechanism.[/WEBQUOTE]Doesn't seem to leave much doubt at to his opinion on the matter.


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

One more, since I'm on a roll:[WEBQUOTE="http://www.mirrors.wiretapped.net/security/info/textfiles/informatik/informatik-5.txt"]Tight or Dirty Locks

If a lock seems exceptionally tight or dirty, it will be hard to break the
pins. It may help to lubricate the lock. NEVER use a liquid type lubrication
such as WD40, 3-in-1 oil, etc... Use powdered graphite, available in most
hardware stores. It comes in a little tube, allowing a light squeeze to blow a
puff of graphite into the keyway. [/WEBQUOTE]


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## thefonz (Aug 26, 2007)

JohnWill said:


> Personally, I think it's hogwash, but I'm going to ask a local locksmith about it. I've rekeyed a large number of locks for my wife (real estate sales), and I never saw a bit of grease in any of the lock cylinders. I've also had a few car tumblers apart, and I never saw grease in those either. If you see how a pin tumbler lock works, you would realize that grease in the tumblers would be a serious problem. The springs that move the tumblers do not have the strength to anything but a very free sliding set of pins. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pin_tumbler_lock


I never said anything about grease on a residential lock (pin tumbler)


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## thefonz (Aug 26, 2007)

JohnWill said:


> Here's the opinion of a locksmith site on-line, falls in line with what I believe to be true.[WEBQUOTE="http://www.essecurity.com/Definitions%20and%20Terms.htm"]*LUBRICATION* On no account should oil be used to lubricate pin-tumbler cylinders. Graphite is the conventional lubricant for this mechanism.[/WEBQUOTE]Doesn't seem to leave much doubt at to his opinion on the matter.


This is a pin tumbler lock, not a wafer lock.


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## thefonz (Aug 26, 2007)

If a lock seems exceptionally tight or dirty, it will be hard to break the
pins. It may help to lubricate the lock. NEVER use a liquid type lubrication
such as WD40, 3-in-1 oil, etc... Use powdered graphite, available in most
hardware stores. It comes in a little tube, allowing a light squeeze to blow a
puff of graphite into the keyway. 

Graphite does not break anything free. It's dry powder and considered crap by most locksmiths. Most of the locksmiths I read in the magazines and on line, prefer a silicone based (I think) lubricant such as tri-flo. Some opt for the WD40 to break things free and follow with a quality lubricant, not graphite. On the other hand there are some that use graphite, but the majority of the ones I know of do not like it or use it.

I can give you two simple kwikset pin tumbler locks that are very difficult to get a key into if at all,(without smacking it into the keyway). You blow your graphite into one and WD 40 into the other and see which one works better. 
I know you are a long time member here and probably very respected. I respect your views, but don't be so quick to call 'hogwash'


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## thefonz (Aug 26, 2007)

rameam said:


> If the grease is in there, why doesn't it get on the key. I've never seen any on mine.


The grease is usually applied on the outside of the plug, along the top of the wafers, the plug contains the wafers. It is not squeezed or crammed down into the keyway.


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## thefonz (Aug 26, 2007)

Opinions vary, these are from locksmiths:

Here is one post:
I know I'm chiming in a little late. I usually avoid the never-ending "WD-40 Debate". Never the less, I reluctantly clicked on the thread so here's my 3 cents... 

WD-40 for picking, flushing, cleaning, etc. 

For lubrication on existing locks -"SuperLube". You can get it at most auto parts stores. 

For brand new locks that I'm sure have had no previous lubricants introduced to them -"Lab Lube". It's a Teflon, in white powder form. But because it's a powder, I just don't like putting it into something that may have some other kind of liquid or graphite lubricant in it already

Here is another:
I am also an Institutional Locksmith. I would recommend Houdini. It is a non-petroleum based product will not gum up, drives out moisture, and cleans as it lubricates. No Teflon, Silicone, or Graphite is used in the product. I use it on everything from our commercial locks to our detention hardware. 


Here is another:
Wd-40 clean, tri-flow to lube I also use a graphite mix which is work out pretty good. Ya don't have to poof every chamber just lightly drag it across before you cap them if you r usin sfic cores. To much graphite ceates headaches 


Another:
For dirty locks, use WD-40 and teardown and clean. Once put together the film of WD-40 will last awhile. Throw your graphite away. Every lock that isn't dirty-that I can see anyway-I use Lok Shot on. Works WONDERFULLY on auto locks and great on house locks

Another:
A number of years ago, when I attended a Simplex class, they told us not to use WD40 as a lube for their locks because it tended to collect dust and clog things up. 

Kind of funny how things evolve. Locksmith went from using graphite to using WD40 and now from wd40 to Tri-flow, Superlube, or other products that are true lubricants. 

I still carry my WD40, but use it mainly to clean gunk out and follow that up with Tri-flow or Superlube, use the WD40 to also loosen screws and nuts and clean tools, etc. 

Another:
Get a piece of glass, spray a spot of WD40 and some of the others. Let dry for a week or two. See what you get. WD40 turns to wax. I use tri-flow. I also like Rem Oil. It's a spray light machine oil made for guns, marketed by remington. Sold in sporting goods store. I figure if it's good for tight tolerances in a rifle, should work great on a lock. 

Another:
I use nothing but Houdini in my prison, great cleaner and lubricater. 


Last one:
Super lube (silicon), and Tri-Flow (teflon), though I do use WD40 sometimes when having trouble picking a lock. : ) 

I know graphite is a good lubricant unless someone comes along and sprays a liquid lubricant into the lock - and they always do. Once that happens, the graphite turns into a solid rock. : ) Then there's the "black hand" syndrome we all walk away with after working on a lock that has had graphite sprayed into it, usually liberally. 

Unless you want to count this one:
houdini 
smells good 


Hey I&#8217;m on a roll too!

it's interesting that you heard about WD-40 corroding zinc chromate at a Von Duprin class, as that's where I first heard about it myself. By any chance, was Carl Dean the instructor of that class? 

Actually, it isn't the zinc itself which corrodes, but the chromate coating covering the zinc. When the zinc is left exposed, it oxidizes leaving that white ash-looking stuff behind on the surface, and that can gum up the works. That's what I love about locksmithing; you learn all sorts of stuff! 


More?
Rodger, If you've ever had trouble with padlocks rusting and gunking (is that even a word?) up, preventing the shackle from releasing properly, clean it a little depending on the amount of gunk, and spray Lok-Shot in the shackle holes. I tried this about three months ago on a lock exposed to the weather 24/7 and haven't had to relube it yet. I also use Tri-Flow for regular stuff, but it would not keep this padlock from "freezing" up. The Lok-Shot works great. It seems to dissolve the crud and stays behind for a LONG time, doing it's job. 


Still more:
ZEP 45 like triflow but much cheaper 

Another opinion.
I'm sorry that everyone is against the WD-40. In 1958 when I started, grafite was the top of the line. In the 1980's, LAB Lube was the item. In the 1960's WD-40 was presented to us in a 1 guart bottle for use as a lube to be applied as a spray or a dip with a Q-tip on parts that would contact other parts. Through the others in locksmithing, this item has been put down, however, they still use this item more than they want to admit. Many say that this item "Gums Up", well, I disagree with this since an additional application will re-activate the main function of the lube that it was intended for. For the price and it's worth, WD-40 has been a life-saver for many a locksmith. What does iritate me is the same locksmiths that can come on this forum on a daily basis and still maintain that they are "Working Locksmiths". At my age, I still spend 16 to 20 hours per day in the field, and manage 5 employees and I only get to review this forum about once or twice per month. Please excuse me, but I have a business to run.


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