# Solved: ABIT IP35 Pro Motherboard problem



## Nlarke (Jul 28, 2007)

We've set up everything, and now we can't get post on this motherboard.

We frequently get error codes 74, 96, C5, etc, etc, some of them not found in ABIT's manual.
We are stumped. Could it be the 500W power supply, OCZ memory, or what?


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## win2kpro (Jul 19, 2005)

First of all is the processor you are using compatible with the board?

http://www.abit.com.tw/cpu-support-list/mb/intel_p35_ip35-pro.htm


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## Nlarke (Jul 28, 2007)

Full specs:
ABIT IP35 Pro
Intel Q6600 Qaud Core 2.4GHz 1066FSB
2x 1GB DDR2 OCZ Platinum PC2 6400 800MHz Revision 2
EVGA 8800GTS 640MB
ZALMAN 120mm CPU fan
500GB Seagate SATA HD
Pioneer 18x DVD/CD Burner
SkyHawk 570W PowerOne PSU

Another person I asked seems to think it's the power supply being insufficient. I'm aware it's technically not up to the 12V standard and is rated at 18A output, that isn't enough?


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## win2kpro (Jul 19, 2005)

If this is the eVga card your have, then the recommendation is aMinimum of a 400 Watt power supply. (Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 26 Amps.)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130080

Even if this is not the exact card, most all the 8800GTS requirements will be the same.

On the side of the power supply should be a sticker. What does the sticker indicate under the +12v column(s)?


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## Nlarke (Jul 28, 2007)

This supply is only rated at 20A at +12V, so that would definitely prevent this board from completing post? We're fairly sure this power supply is the culprit, we have yet to try a different one.


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## win2kpro (Jul 19, 2005)

I would also suggest you try this first.

The scenario you describe SOMETIMES occurs on socket 775 processors that are not fully seated and locked.

If the heatsink is not contacting the processor heat spreader under pressure the machine will either fail to boot, or if it does boot will shut down after a few seconds.

If your processor is a boxed processor that came with the Intel cooler try this;

*These instructions ONLY apply to INTEL coolers that were shipped with pre-applied Thermal Interface Material or Thermal Interface Compound.*

Without removing the cooler take a flat blade screwdriver and turn the locking pins 90-degrees *counterclockwise* to the unlock position. With all the locking pins loose, without lifting up on the cooler assembly *"gently"* turn the cooler assembly left and right a couple of times *(Just a couple of degrees each way).* Turn the locking pin assemblies back *clockwise* as far as they will go, and re-align the locking pins with the holes in the motherboard. Push down *HARD* on 2 pins at a time diagonal from each other, until all 4 pins are fully down and locked. After all 4 pins are down and locked push down *HARD* on each pin individually.

After the processor cooler is fully down and locked, see if the machine will boot.


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## Nlarke (Jul 28, 2007)

Well, it seems that this power supply is woefully insufficient. I read a review of a builder who used this very power supply and *barely* got a core two to run with a lower grade PCIe graphics card without over-clocking anything. I have a much more demanding card and a quad, basically two core 2s "glued" together. I'm no electrician, but it sounds like I'm going to need much more umph to get this thing to even boot. This current PSU is only rated at 20A at 12V. I'm going to go for one with a single nice big rail at 60-70A at 12V. Thanks for your help, if it still doesn't pass Post I will keep the cooler mounting bit in mind.


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## win2kpro (Jul 19, 2005)

If you want a great power supply for your machine, look at this one.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703009


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## crjdriver (Jan 2, 2001)

First of all using a pw supply that is below a min requirement is just asking for a problem. With that video card and that mb, I would be looking at something in the 500-500W range with at least 30amp on the combined 12V rail. The 30amp would be just about a min; 35+ would be better. 20amp on the 12V is just not going to cut it. You might get just the board and a low power video card to post however with that card, drives, etc it is not going to happen.

Next are you sure you plugged in *both* the aux 8pin power connector AND the aux 4pin molex power connectors to the board?

You are not trying to use a 4-8pin adapter or a 20-24pin adapter are you?


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## yoitsme (Oct 22, 2007)

i get the post code CC with the abit ip35 pro...

i was told CC meant clear cmos ( i cleared it by moving the jumper)
it won't turn on at all.. i have a 300 W power supply



what do you thinkthe problem is?

i dont want to buy a power supply and still not having it boot up.

i have a 

core 2 quad
2gb OCz ram
abit IP35 Pro
500 Seagate
HIS video card.


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## Nlarke (Jul 28, 2007)

Wow, you nearly have the same specs I do. One potential problem I would immediately notice: 300 WATTS IS NOT ENOUGH

500 Watts would have done it for me just barely with similar (as far as I can tell) specs.

Of course, how much power you need is very dependant on the specs of your graphics card, which you didn't care to list. Is it Nvidia? ATI? What series is it? etc, etc.

But, before you take care of all that, CC means that either you didn't set your CMOS jumper right, which I seriously doubt you did because there's only 3 pins to screw up...

OR, the CMOS switch in the upper left corner next to the PS/2 mouse and keyboard connectors isn't set back to the normal position. If you have no idea what I'm talking about look at page 21 section 1 of your IP35 Pro Manual, it will show you where it is and what position it should be set to.

Hopefully that's your only problem. Unfortunately mine was that the RAM slots on my board were flawed, so I was forced to RMA for a new board...

Start a new thread so people will actually reply to your problem, this one is more than a month old. Check the switch and let me know what happens, PM me with a link to your new thread.

It also might be a good idea to go to your profile for this site and set up your signature to list your *complete* system specs. It would be especially helpful to know what your graphics card is.


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## yoitsme (Oct 22, 2007)

ah! it might be that switch on the back!

graphics card is HIS radeon HD 2600 pro 

but , my case started beeping like crazy...

im just going to RMA both the processor (q6600) and the motherboard and get a new one just to be safe... as for the power supply, im going to RMA my case too.

currently, the back switch is set down.. is up the normal? i left the manual at my cousins -_-


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## yoitsme (Oct 22, 2007)

ok it stopped beeping. and now, i get a code 0.1 ..... i dont have my manual so do you know waht it is?


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## Nlarke (Jul 28, 2007)

START A NEW THREAD ON THE FORUM. I can't stress this enough, because NO ONE ELSE is subscribed to this thread. You're actually lucky I forgot to unsubscribe from this old post. That way lots of other people can offer help.

That aside...

Whoa, I wouldn't do that much RMA all at once, you should diagnose what the problem actually is so you only have to ship one item...

I highly doubt the CPU is faulty, the RAM, or even the case. Intel, and AMD for that matter, do not manufacture bad CPUs, it's just statistically improbable, something like 1 in the hundreds of thousands. RAM is a similar case. As for the beeping, cases as far as I know don't have a sound mechanism and they have very little to do with whether or not a system can boot... However, your motherboard and your graphics card should have sound mechanisms, and this usually happens when something is unplugged that shouldn't be.

I'm guessing your power supply came with the case. It isn't suitable for normal use, but you'll need it to see if you can boot and if not, diagnose what the problem is.

1. Take your motherboard out of the case and lay it on the plastic anti-static bag it came in, somwhere where you have plenty of space, it will be way easier to work on that way.

2. Check that yor RAM sticks (I'm assuming you have 2) are in matching color slots and that the white tabs are completely locked over the notches on each end of the sticks.

3. Check that all the power plugs to your card are plugged in and look for the 4-pin power plug just underneath the PCIe slot to make sure that's been plugged in too.

Make sure you have everything plugged in, including a monitor to your graphics card to see if the BIOS comes up. You just need to see if it will boot, so your HD and optical drive are unnecessary.

Let me know what happens IN A NEW THREAD.


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