# 1996 F150 motor swap.



## kenpodad (Apr 15, 2004)

I would like some help or info on how to pull the 6 cylinder motor out of my 1996 ford F150 pickup. Doe's the trans. have to come out first? I know that the radiator and fan have to come off, Are there any shortcuts? Thanks


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## Knotbored (Jun 5, 2004)

You have several options, depending on your shop/driveway, tools available and transmission type.
First get a digital camera and photo EVERYTHING under the hood-you will surely forget where all the vac tubes lead after you remove them. Then also sketch them-then number them with duct tape and note the numbers on your shetch and pictures (sounds crazy but you will thank me for that.)
Get several muffin tins and place small parts and bolts in order as you remove them-put them back in exactly the same order.
Your main task will be to make sure ALL the connections to the body.frame are disconnected. You don't want to be climbing back underneath to disconnect the speedo cable or back inside to undo a shift linkage. And drain all the fluids-water/oil and tranny-you don't want to be slipping around in puddles.
Usually (not always) its easier to pull the tranny and engine out as a unit and break apart later. Hint-make two "headless" bolts threaded same as the motor/tranny threads to slide the new engine/old tranny together, then replace with stock bolts-its easier to align them then guessing where that dang shaft is.
If you can get (or make) a weight equalizer to tilt the engine as it cones out its a way easier operation, then roll the car away when engine swings free.


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## buck52 (Mar 9, 2001)

good advise from Knotbored...


My first step would be ...remove the hood... 

I would also take the trans off before pulling the motor but...that's probably because that's the way I have always done it...


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## kenpodad (Apr 15, 2004)

Knotbored said:


> You have several options, depending on your shop/driveway, tools available and transmission type.
> First get a digital camera and photo EVERYTHING under the hood-you will surely forget where all the vac tubes lead after you remove them. Then also sketch them-then number them with duct tape and note the numbers on your shetch and pictures (sounds crazy but you will thank me for that.)
> Get several muffin tins and place small parts and bolts in order as you remove them-put them back in exactly the same order.
> Your main task will be to make sure ALL the connections to the body.frame are disconnected. You don't want to be climbing back underneath to disconnect the speedo cable or back inside to undo a shift linkage. And drain all the fluids-water/oil and tranny-you don't want to be slipping around in puddles.
> ...


Thanks for the info on change motor,By pulling the trans there will be more room to jocky the engine around I think.The camera is a very good idea. Thanks again.


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## hewee (Oct 26, 2001)

Maybe take pictures of the several muffin tins and place small parts and bolts in order as you remove them too in case you knock it around or kick it and lose the order they were on your have pictures.


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## mrss (Jun 13, 2007)

On my little 4 cylinder RWD car, it was easier to pull the transmission and engine as a pair. With mine, it's hard to reach all the bell housing bolts and not having a lift, I don't like working under a car that's on jackstands. Then again, with an F150, it's prolly high enough and big enough to get at everything. And with the longer engine, you'll have to get a good tilt to have it come out with the gearbox.

Anyway, it's not rocket science like PC's. Just common sense, being safe, and documenting where hoses, wires, and different size bolts go. Soak the exhaust fasteners with penetrating oil before you start.


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## kenpodad (Apr 15, 2004)

Thanks for the tip Mrss. I am not quite ready to pull the engine yet.Pulling it will be the easy part. Putting it in another 96 F150 wii be a larger task. Thanks.


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## Soundy (Feb 17, 2006)

One suggestion: buy a good shop manual. Haynes are probably the most widely-available and they're pretty inclusive - I rebuilt the engine in my 1980 Mazda GLC many many years ago with the help of a Haynes manual. There are probably others that have more detail, but the Haynes will serve you well.


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## CarpenterJC (Jan 19, 2006)

A few More suggestions...get yourself a labeler...availible at any office store..and label bags of nuts/bolts where they go what they are for and even the torque spec if they need one..biggest thing is stay organized and keep the area clean...steam clean the engine and undercarraige before removal and if possible before re-install..makes things so much easier..use proper fluid etc when re-installing..dont cheap out and electric tape any connections you may need to repair..solder and heat shrink them..do get a manual..preferably a Factory service manual..altho haynes or a chilton will work...they seem to say "refer to dealership or authorized technician" alot tho..where as a Factory manual has all the info..ditto for keeping tools organized..nothing worse than hunting down a 12mm Wrench with the Power steering Pump(or whatever) hanging their ..GoodLuck with the Project!

JC


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## kenpodad (Apr 15, 2004)

Thanks Carpenter JC, On the engine there is a front bracket to hoist the engine out, Is there another in the rear of the engine for balance? Thanks.


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## CarpenterJC (Jan 19, 2006)

Their should be another lifting braket mounted to the intake manifold or back of the cylinder head..been awhile since I pulled a 6cyl out...but if I remember correctly its on the back of theintake manifold...you didnt specify v6 or inline6...inline I think its bolted to the back of the cyl head..whatever service manal you get should show that...if you dont want to buy one..go to your pblic library thy usually have a good selection.

JC


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