# FloorBoard - Replacing a few



## eddie5659 (Mar 19, 2001)

Hiya

Now, not a full handy man, but got plenty of jobs to do round the house, so going to get started on a few now 


One is the bathroom, a few floorboards have gone, so I think the joists or the actual boards are a little rotten. Maybe due to water, etc. They're near the sink/shower, so could possibly be the cause.

Anyway, reading in my Home Improvements book that I need something to lift the old ones up with, like a Bolster. I assume I need to treat the wood as well, prior to replacing them. It also says to leave the new boards in the room for a week, prior to laying them.

Now, do I just do the ones that have gone, or if there are any adjacent ones that may have been damaged, but don't look like they have, to replace them? Also, which kind of nails do you use?

Looking at around 6 or 7 boards, and when its finally done, will be removing the carpet cmpletely, and putting laminate wood down (another thread later).

So, should I just replace all boards in the bathroom (its not that big), or just the ones that have gone? If all, some may go onto the landing, as I assume the boards won't stop at the door.

Will get a saw as well, as it says in my 'bible' that you cut a full-length board in two directly over a floor joist.

Many thanks 

eddie


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## iltos (Jun 13, 2004)

if one or more of the joists are rotten, eddie, then you got yourself a bigger can of worms... 

do you have access to them without taking up the floor?....since you seem to be considering that anyway, my suggestion would be to take up enough of the floor so that you can see the extent of the damage that may be hidden

the other thing i'm wondering is....when you say floorboards, what do you mean? you mentioned laminate floor....is this what you'll be replacing?....it's typically tongue and groove on all four edges....is yours? how thick is it? the thinner stuff (around 1/4 to 3/8") is typically set into an adhesive, and doesn't rely on nails.

but it is set over somekind of "subfloor", and it is THAT which needs to be spliced over a joist.....the laminate can just be layed as it comes out of the box.


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

eddie5659 said:


> One is the bathroom, a few floorboards have gone, so I think the joists or the actual boards are a little rotten. Maybe due to water, etc. They're near the sink/shower, so could possibly be the cause.


Check around the toilet also to make sure the wax seal is not leaking and water coming from the base of the toilet.



> Anyway, reading in my Home Improvements book that I need something to lift the old ones up with, like a Bolster. I assume I need to treat the wood as well, prior to replacing them. It also says to leave the new boards in the room for a week, prior to laying them.


I would think you would want to treat all 4 sides. Cut and dry fit and then remove and treat all sides to seal the wood. Might be wise to let the boards acclimate to the atmosphere in the room for a few days first before treating to seal them? What ya think Iltos??


> Now, do I just do the ones that have gone, or if there are any adjacent ones that may have been damaged, but don't look like they have, to replace them? Also, which kind of nails do you use?


are you going to have an all wood floor in the room and using the existing floor as a subfloor?? if you are putting laminate in the room i would just remove what is damaged.



> Looking at around 6 or 7 boards, and when its finally done, will be removing the carpet cmpletely, and putting laminate wood down (another thread later).


is this carpet area in another room?? you got me confused.



> So, should I just replace all boards in the bathroom (its not that big), or just the ones that have gone? If all, some may go onto the landing, as I assume the boards won't stop at the door.


still confused. but maybe it is just me??


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## iltos (Jun 13, 2004)

wacor said:


> What ya think Iltos??


i am a mite confused myself
but if it is prefinished laminate, it'd be wise to seal the bottom before installation....the tops of those are pretty bombproof, but if water keeps getting around and under, it'll ruin it in a heartbeat.

which reminds me....do you know what the water source is, eddie?....is it just years of using the bathroom, or is it something new?


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

iltos said:


> i am a mite confused myself
> but if it is prefinished laminate, it'd be wise to seal the bottom before installation....the tops of those are pretty bombproof, but if water keeps getting around and under, it'll ruin it in a heartbeat.
> 
> which reminds me....do you know what the water source is, eddie?....is it just years of using the bathroom, or is it something new?


Perhaps the bathroom was carpeted and he is referring to the subfloor?? in which case i would think you would be better to rip it all out and start over.

i had not thought about finishing the underneath side of a laminate floor. whatever is used though i would get some tough stuff. bathroom and wood do not seem like a good match


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## iltos (Jun 13, 2004)

wacor said:


> Perhaps the bathroom was carpeted and he is referring to the subfloor?? in which case i would think you would be better to rip it all out and start over.


yep...from what he said, i fear eddie's in this for more than he was countin' on.


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

iltos said:


> yep...from what he said, i fear eddie's in this for more than he was countin' on.


I can vow for doing that. 

20+ years ago my first house had moisture get behind the plastic wall tile in the tub area. so i got this bright idea to rip out all the loose ones and then try to put them back in place. well the water had rotted out the dry wall in at least a 3' x 3' area and those tiles just had not fallen yet. Ended up installing a new tub with a wall enclosure and retiled the rest of the bathroom with real tile. except the floor..  floor was vinyl with carpet on top and so i just bought new carpet.


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## eddie5659 (Mar 19, 2001)

Hiya, thanks for the replies 

Now, for the replies to what you posted:



> Originally Posted by *wacor*
> 
> Check around the toilet also to make sure the wax seal is not leaking and water coming from the base of the toilet


At the moment, its kinda near the sink only. Its not a large bathroom. Imagine this if you can. Shower cubical in the corner, about a foot away on the wall is the sink. About another 3 feet, the toilet is on the next wall (gone round the corner). Bath is on the opposite wall from sink/shower.



> are you going to have an all wood floor in the room and using the existing floor as a subfloor?? if you are putting laminate in the room i would just remove what is damaged.


Okay, the floorboards are underneath the carpet at the moment. Under them is the pipes, etc. This is an upstaires bathroom. Eventually, when the floorboards are sorted, I'll be replacing the carpet with laminate flooring.



> is this carpet area in another room?? you got me confused


I see what you mean. Nope, this carpet stops at the door, but the actual floorboards underneath may go out onto the landing, if you see what I mean 



> Originally Posted by *iltos*
> am a mite confused myself
> but if it is prefinished laminate, it'd be wise to seal the bottom before installation....the tops of those are pretty bombproof, but if water keeps getting around and under, it'll ruin it in a heartbeat.
> 
> which reminds me....do you know what the water source is, eddie?....is it just years of using the bathroom, or is it something new?


Not sure which laminate yet, that's in the future. After fixing the boards, will replace the carpet then sort the laminates after.

I think its years of use. These houses are very old, an as its near the sink/shower, that may be a reason. Will have a proper look this week, and let you know the damage 

Thanks again 

eddie


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## blues_harp28 (Jan 9, 2005)

Hi if the boards to be replaced are for a small bathroom [trying to think of a typical Bradford bathroom.. about 10x8 feet?]
No need to lay boards flat for a week before laying..use floorboard nails..Wickes..B&Q will have them.
Laminate flooring Yes you would leave for a week to settle at the same room.
temperature
As you say cut floorboards..so that each half is supported by a joist
Joists should be 6x3 inches..so even if there was some rot..you could cut out the rot and replace it with a filler piece of wood cut to size.
Unlikely that the joists will be in that bad a condition.
What age is the house? Im guessing with a bathroom that size 1930's.
Let us know what you find.


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## Knotbored (Jun 5, 2004)

Something to be aware of-in USA the standard board thickness changed (sometime in the 1960's) previously a 1" board was 3/4" , the new standard is 5/8" (sometimes slightly under.)
If you replace only "some" boards you may have lumps and bumps where they join to old boards. I would suggest you remove all the way to the room perimeter, add plywood all over, adding supports where necessary. You probably will need two pieces spliced over a support beam just to get thru the doorway.


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## xgerryx (May 16, 2003)

Hey Eddie

Have you got a digital camera.
Take a couple of pics for us so we can see what you are up against.
I'm sure we will be able to help you out.

gerry


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

Good point about the board thickness, I got burned by that in the 70's. I was repairing the floor in my first house and brought home the subfloor T&G to fix the floor and discovered this little "fact". I was able to buy some proper sized flooring from the same yard, but I suspect in the 30 years since that may no longer be an option.


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## eddie5659 (Mar 19, 2001)

I'll see if I can get a digital camera. Mum has one, but not sure where it is. Will post he photo's when I can 

blues_harp28, you're right about the size of the bathroom, and the house. Typical back-to-back terrace house.

For those not in the know, that is a house with a left and right hand neigbour attached to the house.....and one behind me. So, neighbours on 3 sides of the house


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## eddie5659 (Mar 19, 2001)

Got the digital camera, expect the photo's soon


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