# How to hook this electric motor up (pic)



## name is guy (Feb 12, 2009)

I have this motor with more wires than I can handle and scared of hooking this up the wrong way and destroying this engine please see image.

specs: HP 1/3 SPL 115/60 5.9A Thermally Protected class b

THANKS


----------



## daniel_b2380 (Jan 31, 2003)

is this a motor motor for a whirlpool dryer?
is this where you're hooking it up?
or using it for something else?


----------



## name is guy (Feb 12, 2009)

I want to use this for it's built on blower to vent air threw a steel pipe into brick forger. I want this to run from it's original power cord, it is from a kenmore dryer and I do have all the other parts like switches ,dials ,wires and cords I would of been able to connect it if I would have just left the cords connections alone ,this motor works.


----------



## Drabdr (Nov 26, 2007)

Oh, man, I just don't know. For 120v, there is a hot and neutral. However, in your drawing, I see several wires coming off of the motor. 

Do you have a technical schematic that came with the motor?

The other wires probably went into a variable switch. You probably won't need that, and can just run at one speed.


There should be two wires coming off of the coil. Those should be the two wire to power.


----------



## ddave455 (Feb 27, 2009)

Here is a safe way to test for the correct connections:

Get some incandescent lamps that add up to about 500Watts.
1 500W or 5 100W, it doesn't matter. Wire them in parallel. 

Connect the hot side of the 120V to one side of the lamps. Connect the other side of the lamps and the neutral to the 2 motor wires to test.

If the motor runs, you found the correct terminals. 
If the lamps light up full on, probably not the correct terminals, but the motor isn't fried by the test. Depending on the size of motor vs wattage of lamps, the motor may run and lamps may glow.

Once you go through the possible combinations, the correct one should be pretty clear.


----------



## Sins (Nov 11, 1999)

I'd strongly suggest that you do an internet search for the schematic for that Kenmore dryer. That will tell you what the various wires are for. It appears that you have relays, a run / start capacitor and control circuits involved with the motor itself. Without the schematics (and if you are really lucky, the trouble shooting guide) the most likely scenario is that you have a multi-speed motor and you don't know what wires correspond to what speeds or which go to the capacitor. If you decide to "wing it" I'd go with the shortest wires having a spade clip as being the capacitor wires. Best wishes!

SAFETY:
Oh yeah, before you touch the capacitor (1) turn off the power (2) short across the terminals with a screwdriver to avoid a nasty jolt!!!!


----------



## Byteman (Jan 24, 2002)

Try this site for excellent free help with appliance manuals or parts...or both. After we had a flood the refrigerator quit (compressor and motor etc was under water) so I found a place to order two relays from....put them in, the frig is still ticking since June 2006! $40 for parts! Excellent service.

www.repairclinic.com


----------



## oil painter (Jun 6, 2007)

I have a kenmore dryer and a sheet that shows the wiring of the dryer and parts list. Nothing on the motor wiring though. the part no for the motor is 20060015 if that helps


----------



## oil painter (Jun 6, 2007)

Does this help It's from the parts list for my kenmore dryer


----------



## Drabdr (Nov 26, 2007)

oil painter said:


> Does this help It's from the parts list for my kenmore dryer


Not sure, but that sure was nice of you to post that for the OP.:up: Thanks for helping.


----------



## Drabdr (Nov 26, 2007)

Ok, I'm confused. Despite your helpful pictures in your original post, I don't know what wires you have left over. Also, on the right picture, you show two reds and two blacks. Is that accurate? Also, oil painters schematic seems like they have codes and such on the wires. Do you have any labels on your wires? if you cut the wires off at the other parts, maybe the labels are still on the part. Make sense?


----------



## RootbeaR (Dec 9, 2006)

Drabdr said:


> Not sure, but that sure was nice of you to post that for the OP.:up: Thanks for helping.


I saw that and thought the same thing but forgot to reply. :up:


----------



## oil painter (Jun 6, 2007)

I have one more of the fuse box connections with the L1 N and L2 connections will it help I could scan it if you want


----------



## oil painter (Jun 6, 2007)

On this one it looks likt L1 L2 and N are the main wires and the others are axiliary wires


----------



## gyrgrls (Nov 22, 2004)

I used to repair these dryers back in the 1980's while this design was still being used.

Terminal 4 is common (neutral)
Terminal 6 is hot (120 VAC from a power cord or switch.
Terminal 5 is start. 

Connect a momentary pushbutton (normally open)
between terminals 5 and 6. This is the start button.

Connect a normally closed pushbutton between terminal 6 
and the power source. This is the stop button.

Power is applied from the stop button to terminal 3

That block on the motor is actually a centrifugal switch,
and cuts off the heat at slow speed, and also cuts out the start winding
of the motor at run speed. You can safely disconnect the two red wires
from terminals 1 and 2, or use them to cut the gas or operate an alarm, 
should the motor quit running. Just connect the two red wires in series 
with the gas valve to the forge furnace, so the motor has to be running 
before you can have fuel. That way, when the motor is up to speed, 
the gas valve opens, and after a few seconds, you can light her up.
Hitting the stop button would kill the blower and the gas, with this setup.

Don't disconnect any of the other wires, because they go to the windings 
and to the overload protector.

Also, since most of the motor's energy is used to turn the drum full of wet clothes,
you can fit it with a somewhat larger blower wheel, and just about double your airflow,
without overloading the motor.


----------

