# What Epoxy is Best for my application?



## Stoner (Oct 26, 2002)

I plan on building a camera mount for two small digital cameras in order to shoot stereo photographs that include objects in motion.
I'll be fabricating linkage to trigger both cameras at the same time.

I'm looking for recommendations for an epoxy for fastening small parts.

Thanks in advance, Jack.


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

That will depend on what material you're using to actually actuate the shutters. Truthfully, I'd try to fabricate something that required a minimum of epoxy to hold it together. Knowing exactly what the part in question needs to look like would be a big help.


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## Stoner (Oct 26, 2002)

My plans are only roughly sketched out right now.
My thoughts are to use a metal strip as a connector between the cameras as a mount.
At one end of that strip, extend two metal strips (uprights)upward to about 3/4" above the height of the cameras, and pivot a rod (the uprights also used as guides to limit lateral motion) between them across the top of the cameras.
Above each shutter button, an adjustable screw in that rod to adjust for sync . 

Materials ......the base is metal (hardware store stuff to start with so likely iron/steel, same with the uprights.
The rod I would think of tubing, could be aluminum or what's handy, to keep the weight down, the adjusters, threaded sleeves obviously epoxied into drilled holes in the rod.
I want to avoid small nuts and bolts as possible with the pivot at the rod and uprights being the only one. 

If the idea works well for syncing both cameras to shoot stereo in motion, I'd probably take the time to build a finished version in aluminum to save weight.


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

I'd start with JB Weld, it's worked great for me to bond metal parts.


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

Jack is there a way you will be able to clamp any of the parts while the glue sets??

Not sure if you have used Gorilla Glue but for plastic to plastic at least I found it really works. My son had both side mirrors snapped off on a Chevy Lumina and it worked. I have used it on other stuff but can't recall if it was ever metal to plastic. If you can clamp it the bond is supposed to be even better.

http://www.gorillaglue.com/home/gorilla-glue.aspx


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## Stoner (Oct 26, 2002)

Thanks guys......I've used JB a long time ago and seen some amazing large scale mends with it.
I'll keep in mind the Gorilla Glue if I go plastic.

I do have clamps and and a vise for alignment issues.


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

I have a friend who's wife is a lawyer for the parent company that makes Gorilla Glue, he swears by it. I've never used it myself, but I've repaired lots of stuff with JB Weld successfully.


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

JohnWill said:


> I have a friend who's wife is a lawyer for the parent company that makes Gorilla Glue, he swears by it. I've never used it myself, but I've repaired lots of stuff with JB Weld successfully.


Like I said I have not tried it when combining metal to plastic so i can't speak to that but I have others claim it is the best of the glues. I just know that for it to glue a side mirror on a car and for that to hold up it pretty impressive. I am not talking about the glass part of the mirror itself but the plastic housing. Somebody had vandalized the car and busted both sides off almost at the base where it attaches to the car. The instructions say to clamp whatever is being glued for best results but even without being able to clamp the stuff worked. I have used JB Weld and not had such good results.

Just my 3 cents worth


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

There you have it, opposing opinions.


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

JohnWill said:


> There you have it, opposing opinions.


It was probably operator error


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## mrss (Jun 13, 2007)

Gorilla glue is very good, but it requires the parts be clamped together because as it cures, it expands and bubbles out from the joint. You have to allow for that. If it dries on your fingers, you have some nasty stains that won't come off w/o taking off the epidermis. JB Weld is good stuff too. Mix it right for best strength, but it can be filed and "machined" when cured. 

Inexpensive digitals are usually inconvenient for action shots. Lots of shutter lag as they beep and boop and do their focus/meter tasks. It might be tough to get two cameras to fire simultaneously mechanically too. Suggest you look for some of the older digitals that had provision for electronic shutter release so you could fab a cable instead of a cam.


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## PCcruncher (Oct 24, 2007)

Jb weld might work, but it tends to crack and break if you are doing small parts like that that will have pressure on them. (at least that is what always happens when I use the stuff.  )
I've never used gorilla glue but have heard some great things about it.

Just out of curiosity how are you going to get both cameras to shoot at exactly the same time? Digital cameras usually have a bit of delay and it seems that trying to get a action shot would be very difficult.

I think I would try 2 film cameras from the goodwill and see if they will work first (might be cheaper too)
{edit- took too long posting it and Mrss bear me to it}


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## Elvandil (Aug 1, 2003)

Epoxies have a small shrink ratio, so that makes them suitable for applications where shrinkage could be a problem. The methacrylates shrink a great deal. But brittleness is a problem with both and can sometimes make their strength irrelevant.

You might look for an epoxy that contains a plasticizer to make it slightly less hard when set. Or, believe it or not, try silicone. Silicone stays pliable and has a lot more strength than most people imagine. I have a handle on my coffee-pot (metal to bakelite) that has stayed in place for years. The fact that the silicone is not brittle allows the temperature changes to occur without the micro-cracking that epoxies and acrylates are subject to. And it is more stable to vibration.


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## Knotbored (Jun 5, 2004)

When you say "objects in motion" I assume (with usual comment) you are speaking of still photo's such as at sporting events or wildlife, and not a moving picture movie.
I am inclined to agree with getting a matching pair of 35mm film cameras with no auto focus, perhaps with a thumb operated cable made into a siamese cable by soldering them together. Then just securing the camera to a platform is simpler, except remember to aim them at a specific distance (not crosseyed and not the opposite.)
By the way last week a local junk store had a shoebox of film cameras for $2 each-some of which have several lenses included in leather cases)
Good luck-let us know how it turns out.


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## buck52 (Mar 9, 2001)

You might also look at marine adhesive/bedding compound such as 3M 5200. It is used to bed and seal metal and plastic parts to gelcoat and painted surfaces. It has an amazing amount of grip.


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## Stoner (Oct 26, 2002)

Knotbored said:


> When you say "objects in motion" I assume (with usual comment) you are speaking of still photo's such as at sporting events or wildlife, and not a moving picture movie......................................


Stills of motion are my main intent, although I have considered using digital cameras that record short vids, to produce a 3D stereo vid of a scene with motion. Two gifs side by side might look pretty neat


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## Old Rich (Jan 17, 2003)

One of the best epoxys for use with metal and plastic is Golf Club epoxy . . you can get it at any store that sepcializes in golf club components


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