# LG wireless control port pinout



## Brainfarth (Oct 29, 2008)

Does anyone know what the wireless control port pinout is for some LG TV's? I picked up a LG Wireless Transmitter and am trying to use it on a different device. But it is powered by LG's proprietary port on the back of their sets. 
Any info would be much appreciated.
-Mike


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## DoubleHelix (Dec 10, 2004)

You need an LG TV.


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## Brainfarth (Oct 29, 2008)

DoubleHelix said:


> You need an LG TV.


You must work for LG.
Again... I need a pinout for the plug.


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## Frank4d (Sep 10, 2006)

The TV has a 9 position Dsub plug, with the pin-out the same as a computer RS-232 serial port. I can't say if the LG wireless transmitter is the same or not.


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## tnetrider (Sep 18, 2012)

Brainfarth said:


> Does anyone know what the wireless control port pinout is for some LG TV's? I picked up a LG Wireless Transmitter and am trying to use it on a different device. But it is powered by LG's proprietary port on the back of their sets.
> Any info would be much appreciated.
> -Mike


You can find the pinout from the TV service manuals... see page page 38 [wireless ready model]
http://www.jordansmanuals.com/Default.aspx?Brand=LG&Product=TV-LCD&Model=32LE5510

Let me know if you can get the the Wireless Transmitter working on an non supported device... Good Luck!!


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## Brainfarth (Oct 29, 2008)

tnetrider said:


> You can find the pinout from the TV service manuals... see page page 38 [wireless ready model]
> http://www.jordansmanuals.com/Default.aspx?Brand=LG&Product=TV-LCD&Model=32LE5510
> 
> Let me know if you can get the the Wireless Transmitter working on an non supported device... Good Luck!!


Thanks for the info. And I will let you know how it goes. Hopefully it's fairly simple because I might be able to flip them for a few pennies since I can get boxes of them for dirt cheap.


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## tnetrider (Sep 18, 2012)

Any luck on getting the LG wireless Media box working on TV's without netcast? I ordered one to play with. Just wondering if there is any success. Thanks!


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## Brainfarth (Oct 29, 2008)

They are taking a while to send it. For some reason, it's stuck in SECAUCUS, NJ since the 21st. Kinda odd. But in the mean time, I picked up a power supply that will go from 0-5a and 0-30v, all for $64 delivered.


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## GaMtnMan (Sep 28, 2012)

I got it to work. I used an external power supply to put 24 v to pin 1 (+) and pin 20(-). I broke the power cable apart. There are two red and two white wires in the bundle. You will have to use a meter to determine which ones to use. I haven't tried switching between sources at this point. This is normally done through the TV. It defaulted to HTML1. The best use of this box without an LG TV would be to use a switching AV receiver to switch the devices to the html output.


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## tnetrider (Sep 18, 2012)

Nice. I will try that this weekend. 

I thought the input indicators in the front are actually touch switches just like the I/O button. Good to know that it works =). Thanks!


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## GaMtnMan (Sep 28, 2012)

That's what I thought but touching them doesn't seem to do anything. I didn't have a second source to hook up at the time. Be careful if you take the dongle apart. There are heat sinks inside that will fall off if not careful.


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## Brainfarth (Oct 29, 2008)

What kind of amperage is it drawing?


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## tnetrider (Sep 18, 2012)

I just chopped the lg wireless control cable that came with the unit in half to expose the wires and attached 17V to the fat red (+) wire and the fat (-) white wire. The media box connects to the wireless transmitter ok (the wireless led on the media box stops blinking, indicating connection to the transmitter). However, all I see is the LG logo and words no signal on my SONY TV. Can't seem to find the PS3 that is plugged into HDMI1. Tried plugging the PS3 to all 4 HDMI ports, still displaying LG LOGO and no signal... Wonder whats going on.. Guess I'll mess with it a bit more over the weekend.


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## tnetrider (Sep 18, 2012)

This is the image I get when the media box and transmitter presumably connected.


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## Flydominican (Sep 29, 2012)

Ok I just found this page today, And im looking for help as well maybe what I have done can help some one, I used the fat red cable and the fat black cable for power, the front of the unit are touch screen buttons, they work fine if you have it connected to a smart tv. Once you hook it up with out a smart tv the buttons stop working and it stays in the last input you had it in.So maybe the person that is not getting a signal just opened their new out of box that has never been used. Therefore, the unit does not have an input set. one of the other wires are a sync cable and I think that should allow us to use the buttons in front. im going to look closer at the schematics.


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## megaduty (Sep 29, 2012)

I'm in the exact same boat:

Bought an AN-WL100W
Cut open 20 pin 12 wire control wire
Connected ~18V @ 2A from a DC power supply (HY1803D)
Wireless dongle powers up and is recognized by base (wireless light goes solid and I get the LG cube bouncing image)
No AV source is transmitted to the dongle
All AV source indicators are solid lit (AV1, AV2, COM1, COM2, RGB, HDMI1-4)

Yes, I directly rigged this without ever being connected properly to a TV (could be successful users had already connected to proper TV and it saved last input..)

Any one playing with the remaining 10 wires in the cable attempting to gain input control??


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## megaduty (Sep 29, 2012)

I put some pics of my current rig-up on G+: https://plus.google.com/u/1/101948760925084043079/posts/iAoN9g49Grk

Any help solving the source selection would be most appreciated.

Ryan,


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## tnetrider (Sep 18, 2012)

Yes, I took mine out brand new from the box. If someone can map out the numbers with the color coding (follow the tv service manual in my post), we can try to hook up all the power and ground pins (I don't have the dexterity required to make out the tiny pins on the connector =P). I also located the wireless transmitter service manual. There are test codes to pump into the RS232 port for switching signals also... I recall seeing the schematic of the "phono pin to db9 serial" cable. I'll post that when I find it again...

Here is the link to the wireless media box service manual (see section 4-3 for RS232 port switching).
http://www.scribd.com/doc/61052286/An-WL100-Us-Service-Manual

This is exciting stuff, we may actually get these units to work!! YAY!!!


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## tnetrider (Sep 18, 2012)

Here is the thread with the schematic for the serial cable. This thread indicated that with the cable set at 9600 bps, commands can be sent...

http://www.lg-hack.info/cgi-bin/sn_forumr.cgi?cid=2675&fid=2679&tid=2906


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## Brainfarth (Oct 29, 2008)

I hooked 17~24v to the cable and the receiver fired right up. To simplify things, it was the big black and big red wires. Also, you can change the channels on the unit, but it's not exactly a user friendly process. 
Turn both units off.
Turn on the broadcasting unit (press the O/I on the front of the unit)
Press the desired input method (on the front panel of the broadcaster)
Then turn on the receiver
Before I turned on the receiver, I noticed that my laptop made the connection noise when I plugged the HDMI cable into it. That is when I realized that you can control the broadcasting unit when the receiver is not turned on.
Here's a picture of me screwing around with it tonight:


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## megaduty (Sep 29, 2012)

Totally confirm functionality! Check my G+ for video and images: https://plus.google.com/u/1/101948760925084043079/posts/btdqMZqCzEA


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## tnetrider (Sep 18, 2012)

Nice!! I also got it up to this point. 

Can someone tell me how the pins are laid out on the connector? Which pin corresponds to which pin number in the wireless port schematic (if you can provide the wire color that would be most helpful too)? If anyone knows the connector part number, that would help too. Want to try a few things but can't seen to figure out the pin mapping. 

Thanks a ton!


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## Brainfarth (Oct 29, 2008)

I was unsure as to which was pin 1 so I popped the lid on the receiver and used the 24v in from the diagram. Since there are 5 or so going in, I figured that as #1 side.


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## Flydominican (Sep 29, 2012)

1-PW = Red (Fat)
2-PW = Red (Fat)
3-PW = Red (Fat)
4-PW = Red (Fat)
5-PW = Red (Fat)
6-PW = Red (Fat)
7-DETECT= Blck (Thin)
8-INTERRUPT =pINK(THIN
9-GRD = Blck (Fat)
10-Reset =Gray 
11-GRD = Blck (Fat)
12-wireless_SCL = Yellow(thin)
13-wireless_SDA = Red(thin)
14-GRD = Blck (Fat)
15-UART_RX= Blue
16-UART_TX= Orange
17-GRD = Blck (Fat)
18-IR_PASS = White (Fat)
19-GRD = White (thin)
20-GRD = Green
Looks like the Box is the slave and the dongle is the Master.SDA and the SCL are not connected to anything. To get this to work we need a 12C or some type of controler to send back a signal .


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## tnetrider (Sep 18, 2012)

Flydominican said:


> 1-PW = Red (Fat)
> 2-PW = Red (Fat)
> 3-PW = Red (Fat)
> 4-PW = Red (Fat)
> ...


Nice. Thanks for posting this.


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## Brainfarth (Oct 29, 2008)

I sent a request to LG (longshot), asking if they would give me a firmware update so I could control the sending unit via the buttons on the front without the use of a remote. They told me to send it into repair if my buttons are not working. I dont think they knew or cared as to what I was trying to accomplish.


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## Flydominican (Sep 29, 2012)

Ok! here we go, this is what I now know for a fact.The buttons wont work unless three wires are connected to a smart tv (LG) these three wires are pin#7(black thin wire),Pin#12(Yellow thin wire) And Pin#13(Red thin wire).. the other one seem to be for IR. does anyone under stand the coding for SCL & SDA?


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## tnetrider (Sep 18, 2012)

I was just playing with the transmitter and media box and noticed that the front panel does indeed work. To get the front panel to work, turn off the media box with the front panel I/O button (red light). Put your finger on a source button with a valid source plugged in (i.e. HDMI 1) and continue to hold on to it. Push the I/O button while still holding the source button. Let the media box come up and wait until the source is displayed on the TV (still holding down the source button). ONce you see the source on the TV, you can release the source button. Now, the other source buttons should work... push to select other sources. As long as the media box is not turned off (even if wireless dongle is turned off), the front panel will remain functional. You'll have to repeat the process if the media box loses power or is powered off. Enjoy the $20 investment...


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## nxsfan (Oct 24, 2012)

I have a bit of a miserable time recreating the experience of this thread. I have 2 of the receivers, and 2 of these: http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Ada...17668&sr=1-2&keywords=20+volt+2amp+ac+adapter

Cut the control cable, connected the (thick) red and white pins to the output of the power supply, set the power supply to 18.5v (the next step down is 16v), made sure the polarity was correct, plugged it into the receiver and....... nothing. Well nothing but a high pitch unstable noise.

I tried a variety of voltage selections (briefly) but still no dice, just high pitch noise. I try both receivers and power supplies but have exactly the same experience. Eventually I try peak 24v on one of the receivers (someone mentioned having limited success at this voltage) and the noise changes to a pulsating tone with a corresponding green LED flashing! While excitedly watching to see if something appeared on the TV I smelt burnt electronics so immediately powered it off.

I made no attempt to regulate the current. It seems likely that either one or both of the receivers are toast but I would really appreciate input on where I went wrong.

EDIT: I notice some potential disparity between the comments from megaduty and Flydominican. megaduty said that the the power should be connected to the thick gauge red and white pins (which I did), but Flydominican makes out that the thick gauge white wire is for IR??

EDIT2: I connected using the thick red and black cables and bingo one of the receivers starts up and outputs via HDMI, but sadly the one that smelt burnt does not


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## whynotthrowaway (Oct 30, 2012)

ill just put this here...... http://www.avsforum.com/t/1314796/anybody-get-lg-an-wl100-to-work-on-non-lg-tvs#post_22539561


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