# Solved: Whirlpool dryer wont heat up



## rocker2462 (Jun 19, 2011)

I have an older whirlpool dryer model lec5000pq0 and I have replaced the heat element and it still will not heat up. I checked the 3 thermostats & thermal fuse with an electrical tester and have continuity on all. Is there something else that I'm missing that is causing the problem? Any help would be a blessing, thank you for taking the time to read this and have a great day.


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

Are you getting 240 volts to the dryer? If you're only getting one hot leg (120 volts), then your motor will work but the heating element will not.


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## rocker2462 (Jun 19, 2011)

I can only assume that I am. The breaker is on and the dryer comes on but no heat? Can I check that with my little electrical tester? and how would I do that? Thank you for the help.


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

Unplug the dryer and test the voltage at dryer receptacle with your tester's probes. Or you can test the voltage from inside the dryer's cabinet.


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## rocker2462 (Jun 19, 2011)

Plug is getting correct voltage


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

Then you might want to check the voltage inside the dryer's cabinet right at the heating element. There is some reason the element is not working. The reason the element is not heating may be a defective temperature control device, a bad/burned wire connection, a defective new element (unlikely), etc. Since the element did not work prior to you replacing the element with a new one, it's clear the same original problem still exists now. I would start troubleshooting at the element and work backward.


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## rocker2462 (Jun 19, 2011)

I'm learning how to do all this on the fly as money is tight and I don't want to call a appliance repair service. I will try and do what you suggested and see what I can find out. Thanks again.


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## Skivvywaver (Mar 18, 2001)

There is a thermal cutoff on the side of the heater tube. Likely either it is blown or the element is burned out. Other causes are in the timer, a loose motor plug, or a burned wire. Inside the timer there are some riveted and brazed connections. They will fail occasionally. Heater voltage travels in one side of the motor (red wire) and exits the other side of the motor (red wire). If either of these is loose or burned the dryer won't heat.

A good volt meter is a must.


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## Skivvywaver (Mar 18, 2001)

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...rts/dryer-parts/Model-LEC5000PQ0/1198/0151200

An exploded view of your dryer with a parts list. Should be helpful.


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## rocker2462 (Jun 19, 2011)

I have been using a small micronta 2,000 OHMS/VOLT AC/DC multitester that I've had for years. The thermal cutoff you mentioned, is that the same as the thermal fuse? I have checked all the thermostats and the thermal fuse and all have continuity when it's set on RX1


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## Skivvywaver (Mar 18, 2001)

The cutoff and the thermal fuse are two different things. The dryer won't run if the thermal fuse is blown.

The cutoff is above the high limit thermostat on heating element. About 12-15 inches above it. Pull the wires off anything you are testing or you will back feed through the harness. Look at the diagram I posted, bulkhead parts, part #6. Thermal cutoff. Pull the wires and check for continuity. Do the same with the element. Pull the wires, you can't plug them in wrong. They won't fit anywhere other than where they need to go and you know you are not backfeeding through the harness.


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## rocker2462 (Jun 19, 2011)

I disconnected the wires on the 3 thermostats, the thermal fuse, the heating element and have continuity on everything. Looking like it's time to call the maytag repair man.


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

Good point about getting a false reading due to back-feeding if components are not disconnected (isolated) when testing. I assumed (maybe incorrectly) that he was experienced enough in troubleshooting to know to isolate the various components before testing them, but...


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## rocker2462 (Jun 19, 2011)

The problem was the breaker and dryer is working fine.


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

rocker2462 said:


> The problem was the breaker and dryer is working fine.


So...you were not getting voltage but from just one of the two hot legs (getting just 120 volts) instead of the 240 volts you needed for the heating element to work? But, but, but...you said the "plug is getting correct voltage"... 

Glad it's working. :up: Sorry you bought a new element when it wasn't needed. Maybe this will aid you in sharpening your troubleshooting skills.


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## Skivvywaver (Mar 18, 2001)

I took it as voltage was correct also. I could swear I read that somewhere in this thread.


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## thefonz (Aug 26, 2007)

Yep, 5th. post said "Plug is getting correct voltage"


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