# Solved: Removing Cooler Master V8 to put in water cooling--HELP



## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

My last 3 questions have not gotten ONE reply on this site so I've pretty much been posting on another tech support site, but thought I'd give this ONE more try. I don't know if I've been blackballed or something... I used to come here for everything.
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I'm putting in a Corsair H60 and have never done this before. The system came w/the Cooler Master so I obviously didn't put it in and don't know how to remove it. All the tutorials I find are on removing the fan, which helps me NOT.

I assume after I remove the whole thing (and it's huge) that I have to clean off the cpu of the thermal paste? What do I use?
And the instructions that come w/the new cooler are just pics. I'm so pissed off right now I could kick a kitten (and I love animals). 

Could someone please have the patience enough to walk me through removing this thing and putting on the new one? The ppl I've called that may be able to help, can't, due to distance or schedule.

(My system is overheating which is why the new cooler.)

This is my info:

OS Version: Microsoft® Windows Vista Home Premium , Service Pack 2, 64 bit
Processor: AMD Phenom(tm) II X4 955 Processor, AMD64 Family 16 Model 4 Stepping 2
Processor Count: 4
RAM: 4093 Mb
Graphics Card: ATI Radeon HD 4800 Series, 1024 Mb
Hard Drives: C: Total - 305242 MB, Free - 202577 MB; D: Total - 715401 MB, Free - 603887 MB; L: Total - 476937 MB, Free - 240876 MB;
Motherboard: ASUSTeK Computer INC., Crosshair III Formula, Rev 1.xx, 101600350000502
Antivirus: Avira Desktop, Updated and Enabled


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## ETech7 (Aug 30, 2012)

In order to remove V8 you will need access to the back of the motherboard, as soon as you do, you will see how it works (1 simple step 4 times). To remove thermal paste you can use something like http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100010 Some q-tips with Isopropyl Alcohol should work also. To install H60 "utube" is your friend, try 



 and there are some others. 
Just don't hit kittens in a head.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

Thank you for your reply. But for removal, am I just removing the screws that attach the cooler to the MB? And do I pull off the heatsink from the cpu (as in is the paste very strong or will it slide off or?) I don't have to remove any screws from the top of the heatsink (as they are hex screws)?


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## ETech7 (Aug 30, 2012)

Just unscrew the back-plate from motherboard. Pull the whole thing off. Thermal compound is not a glue, it will come off if you insist.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

I have other ppl telling me now that water cooling isn't the way to go. Christ. So do I take the thing back or not?


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## ETech7 (Aug 30, 2012)

Listen to your heart.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

Water cooling can be a pain and probably will leak eventually. Unless you do extreme overclocking you don't need water cooling.
Overheating comes from either poor air supply to the case, dirt and dust inside the case and fans, a fan has stopped working or the thermal paste has dried between the CPU and heatsink.
Let us know how you want to proceed. I suggest that you blow out the inside of the case and fans with canned air. Make sure all the fans are running and reseat the cpu heatsink. To get the heatsink off if it is stuck just turn on the computer for a few seconds the heat will break it loose. Don't try to force it as that is when pins get bent and ruins the CPU.
Clean with alcohol as suggested, find the 90% or better kind. Just a small amount of thermal paste is needed about the size of a BB.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

BTW The cooler Master V8 should be more than adequate.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

TY black wolf. I think I will take the corsair back and get a new fan for the V8. What do you think?
When I do clean out the dust (in the past) it does help the temps a bit. But I've gotten that error on bootup (cpu fan error) for many many months. The temps on the front readout on my case are apparently wrong (they usually say 45 highest). On speccy and in the bios, I get 50s and 60s. I had just been going by the case readings so I thought it was ok, even w/the error.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

Perhaps a new fan for the V8 will help, you may need to remove the heatsink clean thoroughly and apply new thermal paste. The most common mistake is too much thermal paste. 
Going above 60c with an AMD CPU is getting too hot for sure. Have you disabled the cool and quiet feature in the bios?


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## crjdriver (Jan 2, 2001)

OK, something is not right here. An amd 955 runs pretty cool even with the stock hsf. I have one on one of my old "test" systems and it runs in the mid 30s. I am not a fan of water cooling simply because it adds extra complexity AND at some point will leak and need more coolant. Some of the water cooling systems are advertised as no maintenance; this just means you cannot add coolant when it becomes necessary.

Coolermaster coolers are not the easiest things to install however their performance is very good. I use a coolermaster 212 on an overclocked i2500k and it keeps it in the mid 50s when running prime95.

Here is what I would do for your problem.
1 Go to the coolermaster site and watch the video for installing your specific cooler.
2 Once done with that, remove the cooler and clean all parts with 91% or 99% alcohol. Do not use the 70% stuff you see in the store. 
3 While the cooler is OFF check the direct contact heatpipes to see if they are flat and contacting the cpu squarely. If they are warped, it is not going to work very well. The only other reason why your cooler would not work correctly is a leak in a heat pipe.
4 If the cooler checks out ok, then reassemble with either the coolermaster thermal compound or arctic silver.


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## crjdriver (Jan 2, 2001)

I just looked at a picture of your hsf and it appears that it does not use the direct contact heatpipes. It uses a contact block. Same basic thing; make sure the block is square and contacting the cpu correctly. With the block type, you can lap it using sandpaper if it is necessary. Start with something like 400 grit and finish with 800 grit or so. Use something you know is straight/square ie a mirror or other known flat surface.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

Firstly I wanted to answer black wolf's question-cool n quiet is NOT enabled. I read if you don't use AMD's packaged fan (which I don't think I am) to activate Q fan (instead I'm guessing). I didn't look to see if that was enabled or not. Should I try it?
And can you (crj) explain the diff b/t direct contact vs heat pipes?
And is lapping like filing? Won't using the alcohol remove the paste ok and it will be smooth enough? 
I've decided to take the water cooler back and get a new fan. It was suggested by someone else to connect the V8 to a system fan header. How do I know which connection is the system fan? I have connections for cha_fans, pwr_fan, opt_fan. Which do I use?

Thanks again


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## crjdriver (Jan 2, 2001)

> And can you (crj) explain the diff b/t direct contact vs heat pipes?
> And is lapping like filing? Won't using the alcohol remove the paste ok and it will be smooth enough?


It may or may not be smooth enough; that is why you check it with a straightedge. Here are pics of a direct contact and a block type. You can see the difference. One the heatpipes contact the cpu heat spreader directly and the other the [heatpipes] are part of a block which makes contact with the cpu heatspreader.


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## crjdriver (Jan 2, 2001)

The purpose of the thermal compound is to fill in the microscopic peaks and valleys between the mating surfaces. If the surfaces are warped, they are not going to make good contact hence poor transfer of heat energy. You need to make sure the two surfaces are as straight as possible ie not warped, etc.

BTW you should have Q&C enabled in the bios. This adjusts both speed and vcore [cpu voltage] on a dynamic basis ie as needed.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

Tried connecting the heatsink fan to a cha-fan (which I learned from googling is a chassis fan) and still got same error.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

phixgrrrl said:


> Tried connecting the heatsink fan to a cha-fan (which I learned from googling is a chassis fan) and still got same error.


 What error?


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

The "cpu fan error!" on bootup. I'm going to get a new fan but I know there can be differences in quality. I've read it should have 2 ball bearings and not be one of those $5 fans. I know its 120 mm x 25mm and 69.69CFM.
Anything else I should look for? Probably going to Frys.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

If it's not connected to the cpu fan plug you will get the error. I have never tried to run the cpu fan from a chassis fan plug.
Is the fan running?
Was the fan running when you started having problems?
Did you reseat the heatsink?


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

I replugged it b/c I was asked to on a diff forum to make sure it wasn't a connection problem, which I have now done. Apparently it's not a connection problem.
"Can you feel any air being pushed out the rear of the V8 unit?
If not, connect the V8 wires to a System Fan header on the Mobo to eliminate the Mobo CPU Fan connection as an issue."
So from that I'm assuming it's not running. I've had the temp issue around the same time I got that error (many months ago). 
I did not reseat it b/c I know that would be a whole freaking event, involving getting the thing off, which I don't know how to do and there are no instructions or vids on it. Plus buying thermal compound. While I'm getting that, why not get the fan too? Why make 2 trips? Plus getting all the damn dust out which will excruciate my allergies. I'd rather save all the fun for one evening and I'm dreading it. It'll be fun not knowing what I'm doing...


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

Can you visually see the fan running?


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

No, not through the V8.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

Can you feel the air or hear the fan running?


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

I can hear the fan in the back running but only feel a bit of heat from the heatsink.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

Do you have the side of your case open?
Fan in back, is that a case fan?


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

FYI This may help, V8 installation


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

Yes the side is open, looking in at the motherboard etc. 
Fan I referred to is a case fan.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

At some point you are going to need to know if the fan is running. If not you will then have to determine if it is a faulty fan or if it's the mobo.
If the fan is running then reseating it after cleaning and applying new thermal paste should fix it.
Did you build this computer?


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

I don't think its running. I picked out the parts but I didn't build it. Its from Cyberpower.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

You may want to pick up another cooler for your weekend fun. The Coolermaster 212 is inexpensive and works very well. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

You think that's a better option than just replacing the fan? Unfortunately I just lost my job Fri so can't spend a lot.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

If you can get the fan that will be fine. Good luck with it and post back with any questions you might have when you are working on it.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

Well about the fan...I know there can be differences in quality. I've read it should have 2 ball bearings and not be one of those $5 fans. I know its 120 mm x 25mm and 69.69CFM.
Anything else I should look for? Probably going to Frys.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

That should be enough to look for.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

Thx for the video; tho he completely skipped the installation of the heatsink so, besides seeing how to apply thermal compound (which he used a kleenex, which you should never do) it wasn't very helpful. so i'll look for another.
I got arctic silver and a corsair sp120 fan.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

You only need a very small amount of thermal paste, about the size of a BB.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

Right. They're saying to Tint it first, so I guess I'll do that. If I can get the other side off, it doesn't seem like I'll have to take out the MB totally out.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

I don't know anyone that tints them. Clean it properly alcohol the 90 -97% stuff and apply the thermal paste.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

It's saying tinting will help fill in the gaps if there are any and helps lessen the break in period, or so says their site.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

Yeh, I know what it says. I have never done it and don't know anybody that does. If you want to go ahead, it certainly won't hurt anything.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

Ah ok. Well if it doesn't make much diff, I won't do it. I have so far just cleaned the dust out of the case. It's helped about 5-7 degrees for the hd temp and 4 for the cpu. Will most likely do all this crap today or tomorrow. Thank you for your ongoing help and I'm sure I'll need some while I'm doing this...


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

I should be around most of the day tomorrow. Good luck.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

Hey there.
I realized even when taking the side off the case where the back of the mb is, I can't reach the brackets. Which means taking the mb out. However, I decided instead to just try to replace the fan and see if that solves it.

But, the screws holding the fan on are ridiculously tight. They must've been put on by a power tool. My dad even tried and the Phillips screwdriver doesn't turn the screw, it just pops out and goes to the next groove. So that means, at least, taking the mb out, and even then i don't know if I can remove it. I'm trying to call a friend to help b/c even though I have a layout of the mb, unhooking everything and removing all the boards makes me really nervous. Also, if i'm removing the mb anyway, I suppose I'll re-seat it.

Anything you can suggest?


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## crjdriver (Jan 2, 2001)

Yes, stop right there. If you are pushing so hard on a screwdriver that it is slipping out of the screw, you are really asking to slip with the screwdriver and break a solder trace on the board or damage something else. Just pull the board out of the case; it is not really all that hard to do.

If you are unsure of where to reconnect molex connectors or wires, either mark them with masking tape or take some pics of the inside of the case before you begin. When you are reassembling the system, refer to the pics.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

Yes I did think of the taking pics thing. I'm still nervous. My dad was looking, bewildered, inside the case and is like 'pay someone else to do it'. 
I know you all probably do this often but I have never. It's pretty much building the whole thing up again.
What would you recommend for getting the screws off? Will I need some kind of power screwdriver?


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## crjdriver (Jan 2, 2001)

No, pw tools and computer parts do not mix well together. With all of the coolermaster type hsf that I have used, you remove/install the fan separately from the hs part. Once you have the mb out of the case, you should be able to remove the fan pretty easily; then remove the heatsink part. 

Can you post a pic of the screws in question that you are trying to remove?


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

Watch the video start with part 2. It is building it from the start but it will help.
http://www.newegg.com/Store/Computer.aspx?name=Computer-Hardware
A power screwdriver won't help, just a good screwdriver and it may be easier once it's out of the case.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

Ok. Wanted to post the pic. It's a pic from a series of pics on how to remove the fan. It's just a phillips screw but its on extremely tight.
(it's a maxiumum pc link: http://www.maximumpc.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=103793)


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

I see what you mean. That was most likely part of the factory installation and a heat pipe is in the way to get the screwdriver aligned straight. It may be able to be done easier if the unit is removed from the motherboard.


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## crjdriver (Jan 2, 2001)

You are going to have to pull the mb; really no other way to accomplish this task. After all of the trouble you have had with this cooler, I would give serious thought to just replacing the whole thing with a coolermaster 212. Right now the egg has the 212 for $20 after MIR
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065

If you decide to go with this option, watch the video before attempting to install the 212 AND test fit everything prior to applying the thermal compound. These are not the easiest things to install however their performance is very good.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

crjdriver said:


> You are going to have to pull the mb; really no other way to accomplish this task. After all of the trouble you have had with this cooler, I would give serious thought to just replacing the whole thing with a coolermaster 212. Right now the egg has the 212 for $20 after MIR
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065
> 
> If you decide to go with this option, watch the video before attempting to install the 212 AND test fit everything prior to applying the thermal compound. These are not the easiest things to install however their performance is very good.


:up: Totally agree!


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## crjdriver (Jan 2, 2001)

If you are not overclocking, you might just want to install a stock type hsf which for an amd is VERY easy to install. It is just two spring clips and a locking cam.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

Well I took out the mb, go those screws off. but now the screws holding the heatsink to the mb are tight as hell. I'm taking it to Radio Shack to see if they can remove them. No one who's tried has been able to get it off so I don't know what else to do. I'm going to keep this one as long as I can get it working again.

Also, before I took the mb out, I got the 4 screws on top of the cooler off, and was trying to get the bottom screws (the ones I have been talking about, the hard ones) off with obviously no luck. Then I just left the pc like that for a few hours (it was off). Around 4 am the modem started clicking b/c it was having trouble getting a connection. I checked all the connections and they were fine. Then in the am, the modem's lights were all off and internet was down. It WAS getting power tho.
I cannot figure out what I did (if anything) to cause this. It was working fine all day, without me touching it. Then this happened overnight. Do you know what I could have done?


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## Intel_Xtreme (Jan 7, 2012)

I've just been reading and I have one question.
Are you sure the screws aren't cosmetic (as in they're just there for show and don't unscrew)?


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

I have got it working (so far anyway). Fan is loud but that's ok. It said it had speed control but I didn't see any way to control it.It's a coolermaster Excalibur. 
Cpu temp is in the high 20s!


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

Great, glad to hear you got it working.


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## crjdriver (Jan 2, 2001)

phixgrrrl said:


> I have got it working (so far anyway). Fan is loud but that's ok. It said it had speed control but I didn't see any way to control it.It's a coolermaster Excalibur.
> Cpu temp is in the high 20s!


The specs show that you have a 4pin fan connector. That is a PWM type fan and its speed is controlled by the mb. You may have to enabled the smartfan option in the bios.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

ok I'll see if that works.


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## phixgrrrl (Oct 6, 2004)

Everything seems ok w/the installation. Thanks.


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## black-wolf (Aug 8, 2008)

Great, thanks for posting back and letting us know.


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## crjdriver (Jan 2, 2001)

:up:


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