# Solved: Hot Tub Repair Question



## JasonAngel (Aug 12, 2009)

I know this isnt a computer question, but it is a tech question, so hopefully somebody can help me out. 
I recently obtained a hot tub and it needed some work. I have a new heating control unit that I am trying to put it. I have it in but the heater isnt heating. I am pretty sure it is just missing a jumper wire. Below is a diagram of what i have hooked up and what has nothing hooked up to it and then below that you will see the actual unit that I have.

Balboa Instruments 
Model DU-H136-CCAH
Part # P/N 51424

I have looked everywhere for a manual or diagram and have had no luck. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks


----------



## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

First off, the resolution of the picture is not sufficient to really read stuff, which would probably be key here.

Off-hand, I'm guessing that this is switching 220 for the heat, and you should be routing BOTH sides of the line into the terminals you have wired and both sides out the other two.

*BEFORE* actually doing this, I'd use an ohmmeter with power off and just pull in the relays and ring out what connects to what, that should tell you what you need to know.

If I had to guess, I'd say you're wired to one side of each of the relays, and that won't do anything. For 220, you should be switching both sides of the line as a rule, which is probably why there's two relays.


----------



## JasonAngel (Aug 12, 2009)

thanks for your response to my problem this is a 115 v unit which is why i think it is missing a jumper to send the power to the other side im just not sure whare or which terminal the jumper needs to go to ive ben looking for a wiring diagram everyware


----------



## kbjester (Jan 28, 2009)

That is a 240 volt relay. I would check the rating plate on the heating element. I would be surprised if it is 110 volt. the specs I can read are for #6 wire 240 volt on the terminal block. it should be powered by a 50 amp gfci breaker and #6 copper 3 conductor wire with ground.Do not attempt to use it if you don't have a gfci breaker.


----------



## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

Well, if you use my previous suggestion to ring out the relays, I suspect you'll find that if you move the bottom wire next to the top wire, you'll have heat. Of course, I would CERTAINLY check that with the ohmmeter to make sure that's where the contacts are connected! If you have a 110 heater, you don't need four wires.


----------



## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

I think you'll find that terminals #3 & #4 are for the heater element voltage IN and terminals #1 & #2 are for heater element voltage OUT (going to the element). I think you'll find that the heater relay (#9) makes/breaks one [120 volt] leg to energize (control) the heater.

You can contact Balboa Instruments and request a wiring diagram for your specific PCB. http://www.balboainstruments.com/


----------



## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

Hard to say, but I'm sure five minutes with a meter would solve this issue.


----------



## JasonAngel (Aug 12, 2009)

thanks alot for your help i figured it out and found the diagram as well i apreciat your time and effort verry much


----------



## JasonAngel (Aug 12, 2009)

JohnWill said:


> Well, if you use my previous suggestion to ring out the relays, I suspect you'll find that if you move the bottom wire next to the top wire, you'll have heat. Of course, I would CERTAINLY check that with the ohmmeter to make sure that's where the contacts are connected! If you have a 110 heater, you don't need four wires.


thanks alot for your help i figured it out and found the diagram as well i apreciat your time and effort verry much


----------



## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

What was the final solution?


----------

