# Solved: Electric stove problem



## katonca (Aug 10, 2004)

Hello, my mom has a 30+ year old Kelvinator free standing electric stove with oven. The oven no longer works and she is debating to get another stove. Not being able to afford a new one I thought it may be a good idea to try and fix it first.

Here's the problem: the broiler coil *nor* the bottom oven coil will activate, neither will the oven control panel light showing that the oven is on. The coil burners *do work fine*. Any ideas on this? Thanks


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## Soundy (Feb 17, 2006)

Check the fuses?


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## katonca (Aug 10, 2004)

You know, I haven't checked anything yet. I guess I'm looking for a list of potential probs to the least likely. From what I have read the switch could also be a prob. Would the oven and stove top be on separate fuses and if so where are the fuses located?

Thanks for the reply.


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## Soundy (Feb 17, 2006)

Depends on the stove, but most older ones I've seen, the fuses are under a little lid along the top of the clock/control portion - just snaps off and has fuses underneath. Newer ones have breakers that SHOULD be self-resetting, but at 30+ years old, it likely still has fuses, possibly of this type:


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

It sounds like you only have one hot leg (120 volts) at your stove. You need two hot legs (120 volts + 120 volts = 240 volts) for the oven's broiler and bottom elements to work since they are higher wattage and require 240 volts. The stove top elements operate on just 120 volts (one hot leg) because they are lower wattage (compared to the oven elements), therefore you probably have half (two of the four) of the stove top elements that work. (However, you mentioned that all the top elements work fine, which would be unusual for all four stove top elements to be fed by one, of the two, hot legs. The likely reason the light does not work is because the light is fed by the hot leg that is not energized.

The first thing you should do is check the fuses or circuit breaker that feeds and protects the stove. It will be two fuses, or a two-pole circuit breaker. The amperage of the two fuses or two-pole circuit breaker will probably be either 40 amps or 50 amps. If the electrical panel is fusible (in lieu of circuit breaker type) the fuses will probably be hidden from view by the fuseholder, which has a pull handle that must be pulled out for access to the fuses. The fuses will almost certainly be barrel type with copper ends. The fuses will not be the small screw-in type for lower amperages. 

You may have to have a friend or hardware store check the fuses since you cannot tell by looking at them if they are good. Or, you can buy new fuses of the same amperage and replace both - that way you'll know both fuses are good. If the protective device is a two-pole circuit breaker (in lieu of two fuses) you'll have to have someone check to see if one of the two poles has failed. You might want to turn Off and then back On the circuit breaker a few times to see if both the circuit breaker's contacts "make". But, even if you can get the circuit breaker to work it needs to be replaced because one pole (leg) will almost certainly fail again. 

If you have a voltage meter or voltage tester you could unplug the stove and test the stove's receptacle to see if both hot legs are indeed hot (energized) with electricity. 

Hope this helps.


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## Soundy (Feb 17, 2006)

^I thought of that as well, but came to the same conclusion, that some of the burners wouldn't work if only one leg was energized... thus, a fuse in the stove is the next logical thing to check. I recall an old stove we had when I was growing up, Kenmore I think, that had the fuses as pictured above - one for each burner and one for each oven coil, if memory serves.


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## katonca (Aug 10, 2004)

You both gave me a couple of things to check, much appreciated. Tomorrow I will unplug the stove and check for the fuse problem. You don't feel the switch could be a logical problem?


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

Soundy said:


> ^I thought of that as well, but came to the same conclusion, that some of the burners wouldn't work if only one leg was energized... thus, a fuse in the stove is the next logical thing to check. I recall an old stove we had when I was growing up, Kenmore I think, that had the fuses as pictured above - one for each burner and one for each oven coil, if memory serves.


I've never seen a fuse in a stove myself. But, I haven't messed with many.


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

katonca said:


> You both gave me a couple of things to check, much appreciated. Tomorrow I will unplug the stove and check for the fuse problem. You don't feel the switch could be a logical problem?


I seriously doubt it.


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## katonca (Aug 10, 2004)

Thanks, I'll be checking the stove in the morn. I'll let you all know what is found and any decision made on fixing the stove. :up:


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## Soundy (Feb 17, 2006)

^^Agreed on the switch - it's possible, but unlikely.



> I've never seen a fuse in a stove myself. But, I haven't messed with many.


Like I say, most newer ones will use self-resetting breakers... but a 30+ year old stove probably still has fuses.


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## Elvandil (Aug 1, 2003)

If you have a meter, it wouldn't be a bad idea to check the switch. Because of the power involved, arcing over a long periuod of time could have carbonned the contact points inside the switch.

And again due to the large amount of power involved, it is not unusual for the wiring in stoves to gradually degrade over time. You may be lucky and find that a wire connected to the switch or elsewhere simply broke or burned after all these years and needs to be replaced. Make sure any wires are replaced with the same or larger guage ones, and that they are insulated in a way similar to the originals (usually with some sort of heat-resistant covering, and maybe even asbestos in a stove that old, so be alert to that possibility).

(I have never seen a fuse in a stove, either.)


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## katonca (Aug 10, 2004)

Folks I appreciate everyone's input on this but I talked with my mom this morning and she decided to opt for a new stove. She figures it has served it's purpose, time to move on. Now the search for, in her words "just the right one." 

Thanks for the help.


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

katonca said:


> Folks I appreciate everyone's input on this but I talked with my mom this morning and she decided to opt for a new stove. She figures it has served it's purpose, time to move on. Now the search for, in her words "just the right one."
> 
> Thanks for the help.


Keep in mind that you could buy a new stove and the new one won't work either...because the problem is upstream from the stove (e.g. blown fuse or defective circuit breaker).

Also, keep in mind that you will have to change the existing range receptacle from a 3-wire to a 4-wire receptacle for the new stove.


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## paisanol69 (Sep 7, 2005)

Koot said:


> Keep in mind that you could buy a new stove and the new one won't work either...because the problem is upstream from the stove (*e.g. blown fuse or defective circuit breaker*).
> 
> *Also, keep in mind that you will have to change the existing range receptacle from a 3-wire to a 4-wire receptacle for the new stove.[/*QUOTE]
> 
> ...


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## katonca (Aug 10, 2004)

Good advice for sure. :up: I'm hoping and praying that the 30+ year old stove finally "gave up the ghost" as they say and buying a new stove is the answer. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Many thanks


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

katonca said:


> Good advice for sure. :up: I'm hoping and praying that the 30+ year old stove finally "gave up the ghost" as they say and buying a new stove is the answer. I'll let you know how it turns out.
> 
> Many thanks


I really (REALLY) think it would be best to check-out your electrical issue first - because you definitely have an electrical problem somewhere. That's a fact! No problem with buying a new stove to replace an old 30+ year-old model BUT do you really want to be in the exact same position you find yourself in now with a brand new stove that won't work.............because of an electrical problem that has absolutely nothing to do with the old stove or a newly bought stove?

Also, considering that the house is 30+ years old - how do you know for sure you have adequately sized range wiring for the new stove. You may only have 40 amp wiring, but the new stove requires 50 amp or 60 amp wiring! Trust me - keeping the small, inadequate (amperage) wiring feeding from your electrical panel to the range receptacle, but increasing the fuse or circuit breaker (amperage) size to keep the fuses from blowing or the circuit breaker from tripping is NOT kosher. Doing so is asking for trouble! Like house fire trouble. Like death by fire trouble. Don't you want to know if you have adequate size house wiring for the new stove before you actually buy the new stove? I certainly would!!!

Check out the REASON why the old stove does not work...and at the same time check to make sure the existing wiring is adequately sized for the new stove you wish to buy. That's how it should be done! Just trying to help you...


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## katonca (Aug 10, 2004)

Well the new stove is in. They said the wiring is sufficient and the stove works. I guess this is solved. Thanks for the advice folks. :up:


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