# Sony TV: Snaps, Crackles and Pops | No Signal



## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

I have a Sony KV27FS17 TV - an FD Trinitron WEGA.

When I turn it on, it now does one of several things:
1) Snaps, crackles and pops or
2) No Signal with black screen shows channel number or
3) turns on Ok with audio and picture (sometimes after being on for some time warming up, and other times right away as it should always be).

It was Ok last night, and this morning but with occasional poping, here and there.

Anyone have an idea of what component is starting to fail or failing here?

I have a digital converter box I bought, but have not yet set up. I'm wondering if I set it up now will it avoid the circuit having problems and work with high def, or should I expect it to behave the same.

Then again, the set is at least 4 years old. Is it worth getting it fixed, or should I just get a new HDTV?

Tia,

-- Tom


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

lotuseclat79 said:


> I have a Sony KV27FS17 TV - an FD Trinitron WEGA.
> 
> When I turn it on, it now does one of several things:
> 1) Snaps, crackles and pops or
> ...


Sounds like a service job, I'm afraid. It could be one or all of may things and really needs to be on an analisis system by a Sony (or otherwise well qualified) repair shop. That way you should also get a good repair estimate to tell you whether it's worth it. Is the digital converter box an external tuner for digital TV? Whatever it is, I suspect it needs to be linked to the TV to pass signals it picks up into the TV. 
Don't think that'll help with the prob since the TV is on the blink and will be with external inputs aswell.


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

Hi bufoon,

Unfortunately, I think you are right, but on the bright side maybe it won't cost an arm and a leg to find out, and if it does get fixed, it probably won't cost as much as a new HDTV, eh?

-- Tom


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

With these new hi-tech sets we're long since past just replacing a valve. I'm not a TV tech, so I keep my mitts off of them. Could be the
supply unit, a capacitor, a printed circuit, a fuse. Trouble is you need a midget to get in there physically. Yeah, I agree. Having it on an analysis stand and having a (hopefully and probably) small part replaced will come cheaper than a new set. Good luck.


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## Frank4d (Sep 10, 2006)

"Snaps, crackles and pops" sounds like the flyback transformer may be arcing. I have no idea what it costs to get a CRT TV repaired these days.


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

sets are not so cheap right now since CRTS are hard to find.

how much did you pay for it??


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

buffoon said:


> Sounds like a service job, I'm afraid. It could be one or all of may things and really needs to be on an analisis system by a Sony (or otherwise well qualified) repair shop. That way you should also get a good repair estimate to tell you whether it's worth it. Is the digital converter box an external tuner for digital TV? Whatever it is, I suspect it needs to be linked to the TV to pass signals it picks up into the TV.
> Don't think that'll help with the prob since the TV is on the blink and will be with external inputs aswell.


Hi buffoon,

Here's a late breaking update on this problem:
Recently, I have been able to give it a good wack on either side to get the picture to come on provided audio came on when I powered up the TV. Then it just wouldn't get more than a black screen with the channel display and a No Signal message in the lower left corner.

Ok, so I called up my local TV repair shop (a real pro) who has repaired the set before. He returned my call today, and given the symptoms he advised me to hook up the dtv converter. It is now working ok - had to futz around with the remote for the dtv converter and I have some stations with a weaker signal strength than desirable, but it looks ok for now. I may still take it in to be repaired if I experience other side effect symptoms of the problem.

-- Tom


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

lotuseclat79 said:


> Hi buffoon,
> 
> Here's a late breaking update on this problem:
> Recently, I have been able to give it a good wack on either side to get the picture to come on provided audio came on when I powered up the TV. Then it just wouldn't get more than a black screen with the channel display and a No Signal message in the lower left corner.
> ...


Tom what are you using for an antenna

I bought a set of rabbit ears that have a signal boost to be able to get real Hi Def.

before cable we could get all the local channels real clear. when i tried regular rabbit ears on the hi def TV I could not get the hi def

i should add that i had to try a couple of these signal boost rabbit ears. the first one did not work well. i bought them where i could return them so it was no risk


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

wacor said:


> Tom what are you using for an antenna
> 
> I bought a set of rabbit ears that have a signal boost to be able to get real Hi Def.
> 
> before cable we could get all the local channels real clear. when i tried regular rabbit ears on the hi def TV I could not get the hi def


Hi Bill,

I bought the following at Sears: Phillips (indoor amplified antenna) VHF/UHF/FM/HDTV digital - Optimized for HDTV (works best within 20 miles)/50db amplification: MANT510 for $39.99.

My dtv converter box is from Radio Shack - Digitalstream DTX9950 w/analog pass-through.

After futzing around with the Sony remote program code you have to get from a table in the Install Guide for the dtv converter box to be able to use the universal remote to program the channels for the new setup, I did get a number of channels.

The result of this experiment is that my TV still snaps, crackles and pops with horizontal lines and after a while it reverts to the black screen with just the channel number and the No Signal message. Looks like using the tuner circuit in the dtv converter box only works partially in my case, i.e. the problem is more than just the tuner circuit.

Oh. well, the beast is 103 lbs. and I have to secure it to my hand truck to get it down the stairs of my split-level to the garage and in the car.

-- Tom

P.S. You might want to delete your duplicate post.


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

lotuseclat79 said:


> Hi Bill,
> 
> I bought the following at Sears: Phillips (indoor amplified antenna) VHF/UHF/FM/HDTV digital - Optimized for HDTV (works best within 20 miles)/50db amplification: MANT510 for $39.99.
> 
> ...


Well, good luck with getting it down the stairs :up: because that is what I think you'll have to do. The problem is clearly in the TV.


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

Looks like I had one too many connections from the dtv converter box to tv - should be only red/yellow/white to bypass tv's tuner circuit. I had antenna out rf cable from dtv converter box to tv uhf/vhf antenna input which bypassed using dtv converter box tuner circuit - ooops - my bad! Now using dtv converter box's tuner circuit and picture no longer snaps, crackles and pops. Once again my tv repair guy saves the day after he asked how many connections I had from the dtv converter box to the tv - when I talked to him on the phone this AM. I had the tv on a hand truck at top of stairs ready to go down to the garage. 

He recommended getting an 8-rib bow-tie antenna for better reception rather than a rabbit ear model like Phillips I am using now as described previously. He has one in his attic, so they do not have to be installed outdoors.

-- Tom


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

I think this is the antenna I got

has rabbit ears and the round part.

they came down a lot in price.

i had tried another one and found this did better.

in my case i don't get poor reception. it either gets all or nothing.

http://www.abcwarehouse.com/product...sp~active_tab~Accessories Store~prod_id~42686


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

lotuseclat79 said:


> Looks like I had one too many connections from the dtv converter box to tv - *should be only red/yellow/white to bypass tv's tuner circuit. I had antenna out rf cable from dtv converter box to tv uhf/vhf antenna input which bypassed using dtv converter box tuner circuit - ooops - my bad!* Now using dtv converter box's tuner circuit and picture no longer snaps, crackles and pops. Once again my tv repair guy saves the day after he asked how many connections I had from the dtv converter box to the tv - when I talked to him on the phone this AM. I had the tv on a hand truck at top of stairs ready to go down to the garage.
> 
> He recommended getting an 8-rib bow-tie antenna for better reception rather than a rabbit ear model like Phillips I am using now as described previously. He has one in his attic, so they do not have to be installed outdoors.
> 
> -- Tom


The devil sits within the detail. By circumnavigating the TV's tuner
(where the problem somewhere lies) there you go. Bet you wouldn't have found the solution if you hadn't put the TV on the cart. Murphy's law
(or sod's law, as the Brits would say)


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

Well I found out why I can't get certain stations in my area to come in. Here is a two step method you can use that will facilitate finding the best reception, antenna type, and help determine how far away from transmission towers of channels in your area your location is:

1) Visit the web site Tiny Geo-code and give it your address location, town, state, etc. It will return fairly accurately your latitude, longitude. Use the example url at the bottom of the web page, only the part that is:
http://tinygeocoder.com/create-api.php?q=<fill in your street address, town, state>
and paste it into the address location bar of your web browser.

2) Visit the web site Antenna Web. Click on the "more options" link at the bottom of the web page. Feed in only your zip code and your latitude, longitude coordinates from the previous step.

You will get a choice of three options to display the output: all stations, digital stations only, or analog stations only. I chose to print out the digital only and analog only station lists. The output gives a link to the type of antenna recommended, call sign of station, channel #, network, city&state, live date, compass heading, miles from, and frequency assignment.

The really useful information is the compass heading, miles from, and antenna type recommendation. I am glad I still have my map reading compass!

The reason I don't get some of my favorite channels is that the live date is stated to be post transition (February 17, 2009) - bummer. So, it looks like I will take my set into the shop after all on Saturday morning to be fixed anyway.

So, it tells me that I should get a small multi-directional antenna, and the antenna mark on the box to look for when buying the antenna. Looks like I have the right kind (Phillips), however, I have noticed that my signal strength is barely in the green by the meter display on the dtv converter's remote. I am going to collect the antenna information that the video tech service guy told me over the phone about antennas and post it here. I have just tonight been looking at hdtv antennas (bow tie+long range: 50+ miles) as my location is toward the bottom of a hill and I am guessing that is causing some of the poor reception I am currently getting.

I found the web site Choosing the Best HDTV Antenna very helpful.

-- Tom


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

Well, I discovered another web site that I highly recommend with regard to HDTV antenna selection, and review - it also refers back to AntennaWeb (a good omen) - it gets my "Best of the Web" for its uncompromising approach to bring you the best information available with regard to Antennas!

Did you know that there is no such thing as an "HDTV Antenna"?

Go to HDTv Antenna Labs for a Step-by-step HDTV Antenna Selection Guide, and HDTV Antenna Reviews and Information.

-- Tom


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

lotuseclat79 said:


> Well, I discovered another web site that I highly recommend with regard to HDTV antenna selection, and review - it also refers back to AntennaWeb (a good omen) - it gets my "Best of the Web" for its uncompromising approach to bring you the best information available with regard to Antennas!
> 
> *Did you know that there is no such thing as an "HDTV Antenna"?*
> 
> ...


Yes. You can have a HDTV (High definition Television). The antennas is commonly termed as digital. That doesn't make the antenna digital in any way, it is just more suited for picking up broadcasts that are digitalized.
These broadcasts also need not be HD. They are, however, no longer analogue. That means the "snow" you'd get on your TV with analogue broadcasting no longer appears. Downside is that the digital picture, once it breaks up, disappears completely. 
If your TV's image frequency (on the screen) is below 100 Hz you won't get HD anyway but with the necessary converter you'll get digital broadcasts.
I run two satellite dishes here in order to pick up: 
1. UK programmes and, 
2. from another orbit position, German, French, Russian, that I don't speak and which makes for great fun, Basque - same story, Italian - very scanty knowledge, Arab - same), some exotic Spanish channels that don't broadcast on the ether and some Portuguese (which is very hard for me to understand but bears some similarity to Spanish). In order to get the right inclination and azimuth bearing for the "parabolicas" I "googled earthed" my location and then mailed the coordinates to Astra satellites HQ in Luxemburg, who then provided me with the relevant figures.
Spanish analogue works fine with normal TV aerial on the roof. Digital is so so, since there's a darn great hill on the opposite side of my valley which
clearly bounces the transmission signals around. It also depends on the weather (rainy days are better than bright sunshine).
By 2010 Spain will have switched analogue off completely and by then they'd better put a mast on said hill. Or else.


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

Another website I found by reading about Antenna Selection at the HDTv Antennalab website gives great signal analysis information: TV Fool.

-- Tom


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

Last night, I finally figured out how to hook up my Sony DVD/VCR player using the tuner circuit from the dtv converter since the tuner circuit in my Sony TV is broken.

The hookup for view HDTV with the dtv converter box does not have an RF cable from the antenna to the TV, only one cable from the antenna to the dtv converter box, and then uses the video/audio cables (red, white, yellow) between the dtv converter box and the TV (on video 1).

The hookup to use the DVD/VCR player uses the same antenna to dtv converter box cable, but replaces the audio/video hookup between the TV and dtv converter box setup with the following setup:
The TV (video 1) video/audio (red,white,yellow) connections are connected to the Line Out (red,white,yellow) of the DVD/VCR player, and the dtv converter box is hooked up (red,white,yellow) to the Line In (red, white,yellow) of the DVD/VCR player.

The TV is set to (video 1), the DVD/VCR player is turned on, but the dtv converter box is powered, but with the red light on, rather than the green light - i.e. with the normal TV setup without the DVD/VCR player setup, I have to power the dtv converter box on by pushing the remote power on button.

The only problem with this setup (that plays dvds and vcrs) is I cannot disengage or switch over to get TV only with the DVD/VCR player in the middle between the dtv converter box and the TV via (LINE IN and LINE out).

I have to change the hookup to view the TV and back again to view a DVD or VCR - but, I suppose that is the price you have to pay for using the dtv converter box's tuner circuit when the TV's tuner circuit is broken.

At least that is my hopothesis. I know the TV's tuner circuit is shot, that the dtv converter box has a tuner circuit that can play HDTV channels on my TV, and I cannot play dvds/vcrs on the player without the dtv converter box hooked up in this manner, and I am assuming that the dtv converter box is supplying the tuner circuit to play the dvds/vcrs.

A normal dvd player hookup with the dtv converter box would include a cable from the antenna to the dvd player and then another to the antenna in of the TV - but, with my tv tuner circuit shot, I am bypassing the use of the TV's tuner circuit by excluding the antenna to dvd player and the dtv converter box out to the TV antenna in connection point.

It kinda looks like, I would need to get the TV's tuner circuit fixed just to be able to switch normally between the TV and DVD/VCR player.

Am I doing the setup wrong, or do you concur that for a normal setup I should get the tuner circuit in the TV fixed for the convenience of switching without having to change the cabling (it would save some money).

-- Tom


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

First of all, you will find that an RF-antenna cable hook up between any VCR/DVD and the TV will get you only mono sound and also a picture not as good as via an Audio/Video cable..
Reason is that the DVD/VCR has a modulator/demodulator which transmits its AV signal via the normal RF cable to the TV. For this both TV and VCR/DVD need to be tuned to the same frequency, well outside the range of anything that your TV tuner (if it worked ) would pick up. This frequency is usually preset ex works.

The same RF cable will also pick up the channels straight on your TV, broadcasted via your antenna.
Since your TVs tuner is on the blink, we can forget all this anyway

Here in Europe DVD/VCRs usually come with an RF antenna in and RF antenna out.
The signal from the antenna is received by the VCR/DVD on its RF in and then looped thru via another RF cable from its RF out to the TVs RF in. 
However, due to the comparatively low picture quality and the dangers of interference by an Antenna TV channel right next door to the chosen frequency, working with external audio/video connections is the
better solution. This just as an aside.

Now, back to your setup:

I understand that your dtv box has only an RF in (for the antenna) and a red/white/yellow (external) for audio video out.

Your DVD/VCR has red/white/yellow audio video BOTH in and out.

Your TV has RF antenna in (which we can safely forget, since the TVs tuner has had it) and red/white/yellow audio video (external) in. 

The problem here lies in the fact that you are sorely missing one set of red/white/yellow audio video connection sockets (which would preferably be on your dtv box as in).

Since we are far from a perfect world Id suggest that you get yourself an audio/video switch box. They dont cost a lot, you can get them home and up the stairs without a handcart and it will certainly come cheaper than repairing the TVs tuner (which you would not be needing for anything other than overcoming this connection problem, since the broadcasted channels are picked up by the dtv box).

The switch box ideally has two red/white/yellow in sockets (for dtv box and VCR/DVD) and one out socket (going to your TVs red/white/yellow IN).

That way you can switch between dtv box reception and DVD/VCR reception.
It is basically a splitter with two inputs and one output where you can choose between
the inputs (the output remains permanent).

Im sure that they come with manual switching, not sure about remote (the box would have to be connected to the mains to give it switching power).

An alternative just comes to mind: Try finding a Y-cable i.e. threeway.
With that you could link the lot up. Youd just have to make sure that when watching dtv box that the VCR/DVD is switched off and when watching VCR/DVD that the dtv box is switched off. Otherwise youd have two input machines causing interference with each other on the TVs input.

Does your VCR/DVD record aswell? In which case the Y-cable wouldnt support receiving of channels onto VCR. Then youd need the above switch box to have another r/w/y A/V output to go to your VCRs r/w/y A/V input.

Is RF (antenna) in and A/V out all that your dtv box has by way of connectors?


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

Just re-read your post and had forgotten that your VCR/DVD is also connected via RF-cable (antenna) to the DTV box.
That implies to me that something as simple as a Y-cable would do the trick. One end red/white/yellow to the DTV's OUT, one to the DVD/VCR's OUT and the last end to the TV's IN. 
In case of applying a switch box (two A/V IN and two A/V out) you could get rid of the RF connection between DTV and VCR/DVD and also have a better (disturbance free) pic from DTV to Recoder/Player.


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

Your DVD/VCR should have an AV setting like AV1 or Ext 1. If you set this than the DTV's picture should be looped thought to your TV via the A/V cable.


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

As an indication for switch boxes

manual push button switching (fair price) 

http://www.firefold.com/Terk-4-Port-S-Video-Composite-Audio-Video-Switch-P1821.aspx?afid=7

or remote switching (more exensive, of course, due to necessary power supply)

http://www.firefold.com/Atlona-4x2-S-Video-Composite-Video-Analog-Audio-Matrix-Switch-with-Remote-P1961C147.aspx


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

buffoon said:


> Does your VCR/DVD record aswell? In which case the Y-cable wouldn't support receiving of channels onto VCR. Then you'd need the above switch box to have another r/w/y A/V output to go to your VCR's r/w/y A/V input.
> 
> Is RF (antenna) in and A/V out all that your dtv box has by way of connectors?


Hi buffoon,

Yes, my dvd/vcr can record, but only vcr. Thanks for the switch box idea.

The dtv box is a DigitalStream DTX9950 w/analog pass through and has from left2right):
1) Antenna In
2) TV out (for RF cable - not being used to bypass tv's tuner)
3) Video (tv video input - yellow)
4) L/R Audio (tv audio input - white, red|orange)

The dtv converter box instructions for setting it up to vcr/dvd recorder is with RF cable as follows:
1) dtv converter box TV Out (RF cable) to Antenna In of vcr/dvd recorder/player and
2) Antenna Output of vcr/dvd recorder/player to Antenna Input of TV (Analog rear)
and that's the only instructions it has for vcr/dvd recorde/player setup. This setup is obviously not going to work as it would use the tv's toasted tuner circuit.

The tv has the following video inputs and audio output (columnized top2bottom):
Video 1: yellow, white, red
Video 3: yellow, white, red
Video 4: green, blue, red and white, red in next column (audio I assume)
Audio out: white, red

-- Tom


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

buffoon said:


> Just re-read your post and had forgotten that your VCR/DVD is also connected via RF-cable (antenna) to the DTV box.
> That implies to me that something as simple as a Y-cable would do the trick. One end red/white/yellow to the DTV's OUT, one to the DVD/VCR's OUT and the last end to the TV's IN.
> In case of applying a switch box (two A/V IN and two A/V out) you could get rid of the RF connection between DTV and VCR/DVD and also have a better (disturbance free) pic from DTV to Recoder/Player.


When I currently hookup the dvd/vcr player (sans tv channel reception), the scheme does not use an RF cable between the dtv box and dvd/vcr player.

The connections are:
1) From the dtv box to the dvd/vcr player (yellow/white/red) to (Line In: yellow/white/red) and
2) From the dvd/vcr player to the tv (Line Out: yellow/white/red to Video 1: yellow/white/red)

-- Tom


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

buffoon said:


> Your DVD/VCR should have an AV setting like AV1 or Ext 1. If you set this than the DTV's picture should be looped thought to your TV via the A/V cable.


Hi buffoon,

My Sony dvd/vcr player is model SLV-D261P and has the following connections on the back:
1) Line In: red/white/yellow
2) Line Out: red/white/yellow
3) RF In: (from antenna)
4) RF Out: (to tv)
and DVD Only:
5) Line Out Audio: red/white
6) Component Video Out: blue/red/green
7) Digital Audio Out: coaxial/black (same size as others)
8) Optical: plugged (I assume could be used w/optical connection?)
9) S-Video Out: different type of connector required

On the front there is:
1) Line-2 In: yellow/white/red

-- Tom


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

lotuseclat79 said:


> Hi buffoon,
> 
> Yes, my dvd/vcr can record, but only vcr. Thanks for the switch box idea.
> 
> ...


Hi -- Tom
Some AV cable jargon:
yellow(video), red (audio-left), white (audio-right) is referred to as "composite AV"

red, green, blue (RGB for image) and red (audio-left) and white (audio-right) is referred to as
"component AV"

What can be done is (and you and I have been there)
A.
1. connect the DigStream RF cable from the DTV out to DVD/VCR 
RF input.
2. connect VCR/DVD with composite out to TV's composite in

B.
1. connect Digstream composite out to VCR/DVD composite in (which you
have done
2. connect VCR/DVD composite out to TV composite in (which you have 
also done)

C.
1. connect DigStream to VCR/DVD by either of the above and
2. connect VCR/DVD to TV by S-Video cable. This gets best picture but
remember you have to hook up audio white/red separately as S-Video
does not transport sound. (I've surfed the manuals of your makes and
if the info is correct, both VCR/DVD and TV have S-Video sockets, out
and in respectively).

In all these cases, when you record from the DigStream, the channel you are recording is the channel you'll have to watch (if watching is what you want). You cannot watch one and record the other. If your TV's tuner
still worked, it would make no difference. Both TV and VCR/DVD are governed by the DigStream (which has taken over the tuner function for both).
This is one drawback that a switchbox would not overcome either.

Now, I think a switch box is not really necessary for the above reasons. You'll have to have the VCR/DVD powered on in all of the above cases to have the signal passed thru to your TV. If my info is correct, on your VCR/DVD's remote there is a choice button "line input" on the right hand side, a bit down. If that is set to the VCR's external input (DigStream) this input will pass thru to your TV. When you play a DVD or a VCR this playback will override the input and VCR or DVD will show on your TV. Stop playback and you should be back to DigStream's TV picture (which you can also record at the same time).

In order to watch one and record another you'd need a digital twin-tuner
or a VCR/DVD with a digital tuner (which you don't have).

As I said, the Dig Stream governs all.


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

Hi buffoon,

Let me go over my dvd/vcr and TV connection points again as I think I left some items out in my previous description:

On my dvd/vcr:
Front: Line 2 IN: composite AV (yellow, white red) left2right
Back: Line In: composite AV (yellow, white, red) top2bottom
Back: Line Out: composite AV - ditto
RF: Antenna In, TV Out - top2bottom
DVD Only: Audio Line out (white, red)
DVD Only: Component Video Out: (red, green, blue)
DVD Only: Digital Audio Out: Coaxial, Optical: plugged)
DVD Only: Digital Audio Out: S-Video Out

TV Back Connections: Left2Right
RF top2bottom: Aux, To Converter, VHF/UHF
Video In:
1: S-Video; composite AV (yellow, white, red) top2bottom
3: Composite AV ( yellow, white, red) top2bottom
4: Component AV: (green, blue, red) top2bottom
4: 2nd column: Audio L/R (white, red) top2bottom

Audio Out (VAR/FIX): (white, red) top2bottom

The dtv converter box is the same as before.

I do not yet have component a cable (red, green, blue).

When I have the dtv converter box hooked up to the dvd/vcr player w/o S-Video and can play a dvd/vcr, but not watch tv program channels, it is connected as follows:
1) dtv converter box composite AV connected to Line In of the dvd/vcr player
2) dvd/vcr player Line Out composite AV connected to TV: Video In: 1 composite AV

I assume the S-Video connection Out from the dvd/vcr player can only be connected to the TV via Video In: 1: S-Video since that is the only S-video In connection on the TV.

By connecting S-Video and composite AV to Video 1 on TV, does the S-Video override the yellow composite video or do they interfere with each other. With S-Video between the dvd/vcr player and tv, should I take out the composite AV and simply connect Audio (red, white) from DVD Only: Audio Line Out of the dvd/vcr player with the S-Video cable between the dvd/vcr player and TV.

Do I need to get component cable (red, green blue) and use that w/S-Video?

I have not tried connecting the RF cable from the dtv converter box to the dvd/vcr player, since that is very close to the scheme I had where I connected the dtv converter box to my TV via the RF cable which bypassed the bypass and reverted to the TV's tuner circuit. If I do that, am I correct in saying that since there is no RF cable from the dtv converter box directly to the tv, but only to the dvd/vcr player then there is no chance that the bypass of the TV's tuner will occur?

If I sound confused, maybe it is because I haven't gotten your instructions right or managed to correctly set the line input on the dvd/vcr player's remote control.

With this information rewritten - can you restate your instructions one more time, please?

-- Tom


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

can you get to the menu on the TV?

I think you would hook the converter box to the composite 

then get a component cable with the green plug and plug the dvd into the component.

they you go into the menu to switch between the two options when switching from one to the other.


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

Right Tom,

Let's cut thru all the jargon and all possibilities first, and just start with one and see if it works.

You've connected DigStream composite (r/w/y) OUT to VCR/DVD composite IN (at the back, I presume).
You've connected DVD/VCR composite OUT to TV composite IN (again with r/w/y)

Your TV's remote has button 15 (as per manual) which is named TV/Video and is the outside right 5th from the top (The big button at the top named TV being No. 1)

This button 15 will, if all goes well, allow you to zap thru all your outside Video inputs into your TV (provided they're connected). It circumvents the TV's tuner and should show on the TV's screen the various External
inputs. Set that to where the VCR/DVD comes in (I think you already have).

Your DVD/VCR has a button (24 in the manual) also on the right hand outside, just above the two buttons for rewind and fast forward. By pressing this button (repeatedly) you can choose between two external inputs into your VCR/DVD. They are L1 and L2. I presume L1 to be the
one for the DigStream input at the back and L2 for a possible camcorder input on the front, but it may be the other way round. Work that out.

Once you've set the DVD/VCR to the proper external input and the TV aswell, you should get the DigStreams picture on the TV (via the VCR/DVD).

Then leave the VCR/DVD on that setting, always. Forget its tuner and any channels on it. We're working external.

That takes care of watching digital television channels. 

When you want to record a TV channel, you now just insert a cassette and press record (time it if you like).

Make sure the DVD/VCR is not set to playback of DVD (use the DVD/VCR button on its remote in 2nd row from top to set to VCR).

Meanwhile you can't watch any other channel.

When you playback a Cassette, insert it and press play. The cassette will override the Digstream's TV signal. Same thing for the DVD. Stop VCR playback and switch to DVD, using the DVD/VCR button. Then playback the DVD you want to watch.

To return to TV watching, stop DVD or cassette, switch DVD/VCR machine back to VCR using the DVD/VCR button, make sure the L1 (or L2) setting is still there and you get the TV picture back.

Always leave DVD/VCR powered on (it won't pass the Digstream's TV signal thru in standby).

Let me know if this works. If it does, we can talk about better cables. 

Good luck


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

Hi buffoon,

Thanks for all of your help. The input select (button 24) worked its magic - and not an S-Video cable connected!

What about better cables you mentioned?

-- Tom


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

lotuseclat79 said:


> Hi buffoon,
> 
> Thanks for all of your help. The input select (button 24) worked its magic - and not an S-Video cable connected!
> 
> ...


Hi Tom,

Glad that worked.

I should have said better picture quality.

There is no other cable we can use between the DigStream and the DVD/VCR, since the DigStream has only the composite (r/w/y) output.
That means we have to leave that connection as it is.

Between the DVD/VCR and the TV there is room for image improvement
by the use of S-Video or component (RGB+L/R audio) cable.

This will not improve the picture coming from your DigStream, since its quality is determined by the composite (r/w/y) between DigStream and DVD/VCR.

However, in view of DVDs to be watched, improving the picture quality between DVD/VCR and TV may have its merits. For this a component cable (RGB-L/R) between the two will give you a better image. You can buy the with the three (red, green, blue) jacks on their own for image, 
or with audio L/R jacks incorporated aswell (red/white). If you have an audio cable lying around anyway, go cheaper and just buy RGB three jacks cable for image and complement it with that audio cable.

What I don't know is whether such a connection between DVD/VCR and TV will only transport the picture of a DVD-disc playing or whether it will transport the playing Video cassette aswell. If it does, then it will also transport the DigStream's TV image, provided neither DVD nor Video cassette are playing and the DVD/VCR is set as before (L1).

If it doesn't you can still link up that way to the TV's component IN.
You'll find that you will have to select the proper exernal input on the TV's remote when you want to watch a DVD. Make sure to go back to the other external input when you return to dtv and/or Video cassette.

If it also transports VCR cassette and DigStream signal via this component cable, you may aswell stay on that TV setting and abolish the composite
cable between DVD/VCR and TV.

The same principle applies for use of an S-Video cable between DVD/VR and TV. Be sure to connect an extra audio cable (L/R=white/red) since S-Video transports only image. Be sure to connect the audio at both ends to the jacks that correspond to the S-Video output, respectively input. They should be outlined together on both machines. Again you'll have to move to the corresponding external input on your TV by remote.

This is the difference:

best = component cable RGB

better = S-Video

good = composite (red/white/yellow)

basic = RF (which we'll forget for all times with your present setup)

to add to the confusion, component is also referred to as "Y, Pb, Pr".
Y stands for luminance, Pb for chrominance 1, Pr for chrominance 2

So if you feel like fixing something that works, these are your next tasks


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

Hi buffoon,

I did purchase a separate red/white audio cable.

I had purchased a red, green, blue cable, but returned it this past week thinking I would not need it - too bad, I bought it on sale for < 50% full retailll price. Boo-hoo!

I can tell you that selecting tv vs. dvd/video is where the control works best with the dvd/vcr remote. Keeping the input select to where it is on Line1 allows the TV to kick in on its current channel when a video cassette is stopped, hit play and it is back to the video cassette. The dvd requires switching back to the main tv mode at the top to see the TV at its current channel setting. Another control to play either is of course the main dvd vs. video switch at the top left of the remote.

Thanks again, I'll be getting back to you in this thread when I get through a FiOS install tomorrow and take another crack at getting the red, green, blue cables. Hopefully, I'll be up and running at a much higher download speed.

-- Tom


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

lotuseclat79 said:


> Hi buffoon,
> 
> I did purchase a separate red/white audio cable.
> 
> ...


Heureka


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

Hi buffoon,

I have a new set of component video cables (6 ft.Belkin) for HDTV, a Sony S-Video 8ft. cable, and Phillips 6 ft. Stereo audio cable.

As I understand your previous post on the topic, my choices are:
better: S-video and red, white audio cables
or
best: RGB component cables

to replace the Line out composite cables between the dvd/vcr player and the TV.

Is that what you inferred?

-- Tom


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

lotuseclat79 said:


> Hi buffoon,
> 
> I have a new set of component video cables (6 ft.Belkin) for HDTV, a Sony S-Video 8ft. cable, and Phillips 6 ft. Stereo audio cable.
> 
> ...


r/w/y composite are the least good, S-Video is better and component RGB are best. Leave the r/w/y comosite in that's already installed for the moment. Install the RGB cable going between your TV and the DVD/VCR aswell. This shouldn't cause any problem/interference on the TV as the input is yet again on another AV setting of the TV which you'll have to toggle for.

I'm not sufficiently familiar with your DVD/VCR to know whether its RGB output (component) supports all its inputs i.e.DigBox (input from external) and VCR and DVD (inside the player/recorder) to output.

Try it. If you get the same results as with the installed composite, you can de-install the composite (becomes superfluous).

If only Video is supported (DVD playback) then at least you have the better image qualities on that cable and can revert to the composite settings for other usage.

Remember to install the white/red separate audio cable by using the sockets assigned to the RGB video jacks both on DVD/VCR and TV. They're usually outlined on the back of both.

Good luck


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## lotuseclat79 (Sep 12, 2003)

buffoon said:


> r/w/y composite are the least good, S-Video is better and component RGB are best. Leave the r/w/y comosite in that's already installed for the moment. Install the RGB cable going between your TV and the DVD/VCR aswell. This shouldn't cause any problem/interference on the TV as the input is yet again on another AV setting of the TV which you'll have to toggle for.
> 
> I'm not sufficiently familiar with your DVD/VCR to know whether its RGB output (component) supports all its inputs i.e.DigBox (input from external) and VCR and DVD (inside the player/recorder) to output.
> 
> ...


Hi buffoon,

Indeed there is no interference since the connections for composite (TV) are on Video-1, and the connections for component including r-w audio are on Video-4, however, there is limited functionality with the component connections and the composite connections.

Apparently, the component video connections on the dvd/vcr only support dvd, so switching the TV/Video from Video-1 (for TV) to Video-4 (for DVD only) is only able to playback dvds and not vcrs, while watching TV via Video-1, I can watch a vcr by just pressing Play on the dvd/vcr when a vc tape is loaded, and when you switch between video to dvd you can also play dvds via composite connections (when a dvd is loaded).

It appears that connection-wise composite trumps component in versatility with my dvd player/vc recorder, a Sony SLV-D261P (circa 2005).

-- Tom


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## buffoon (Jul 16, 2008)

lotuseclat79 said:


> Hi buffoon,
> 
> Indeed there is no interference since the connections for composite (TV) are on Video-1, and the connections for component including r-w audio are on Video-4, however, there is limited functionality with the component connections and the composite connections.
> 
> ...


Hi Lotuseclat,

Yep, that's what I somehow suspected. As far as versatility is concerned the composite cable does it all. However the component cable for watching DVD's (in case you do) will get you a better DVD image on the TV. Might aswell leave them in place for the enjoyment of DVD quality, on the occasions that you watch DVDs and just switch to "4" on the TV.

For your info, the VCR cassettes are analogue only anyway, so even if watching them via the component cable it wouldn't get you much of an image improvement. That's why the outputs on the dvd/vcr are switched as they are with the vcr cassette playing not supporting component cable.

DVDs are of higher image quality so the component cable would help there. Might aswell have the best picture quality for DVD.

I've done this with my setup in that I've made a separate HDMI connection (completely different kettle of fish) between DVD and TV. That requires having the HDMI sockets on both appliances, of course.


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