# Rewiring a Garage Door Start Capacitor



## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

I have read the previous thread on this site about replacing this part, but for some reason the thread has been closed!

My mistake was that I did not pay attention to the 4 wires when I disconnected and now I do not recall how they go back on as the manual does not cover the replacement of this part. I have an orange and yellow wire coming from one area and another orange and yellow coming from another. The four prongs on the capacitor do not indicate anything and I do not want to try without some confirmation...

Any help is appreciated!

Bob


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## cwwozniak (Nov 29, 2005)

Hi Bob, and welcome to TSG

There is a chance that someone here could help you if they knew the brand and model number of the opener.

Are there any markings on the capacitor?

FYI, old threads on this site automatically get closed if there is no reply to them after a given number (like 45) days of no new posts being added.


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

No markings on the capacitor but here are images of each...

The top one is the old and bottom is replacement









Two sets of disconnected wires (yellow & orange) coming from two different locations









Thanks in advance for any info...


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

If you had the manual for it there might be a wiring schematic in it.

I have a hunch how this should wire up but not positive


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

The two yellow wires go on one of the double tab terminals...and the two red wires go on the other double tab terminal. It doesn't make any different which double tab terminal you choose as long as the wires of the same color are together on [one of] the double tab terminals.


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## Frank4d (Sep 10, 2006)

Probably this thread I started 3-1/2 years ago: http://forums.techguy.org/do-yourself-projects/527455-solved-motor-start-capacitor.html It's still working.
Anyway, I concur with what Koot said.


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

Thanks to all as that got me connected but unfortunately did not solve my problem 

It's struggling to get the door up with a load humming noise like it wants to go up but just can't do it. Any other ideas?

Thanks!

Bob


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

New opener?


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

smoofie said:


> Thanks to all as that got me connected but unfortunately did not solve my problem
> 
> It's struggling to get the door up with a load humming noise like it wants to go up but just can't do it. Any other ideas?
> 
> ...


have you tried to raise the door manually?

to make sure it is not a door issue


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

New opener as in an entirely new unit? I'm assuming that is my next step...

We have been opening and closing the door manually for a week + and it works fine...

Thanks!

Bob


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

what is the make and model of it?

have you adjusted it ??


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

*Genie Pro Max Chain Glide*

The only adjustments I have made are with the "more force" adjustment screws...


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

If you assist the door when it goes up or down does that help any?


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

Yes, if I assist it WILL go up and down then stop in it's normal position.


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## cwwozniak (Nov 29, 2005)

How much force does it take to manually raise the door with the opener disconnected from the door? More than a small amount may indicate the need to replace or tighten a lift assist spring on the door. You should have a professional do any replacement or tightening work unless you know what you are doing. A spring can pack a lot of force that can cause serious injury if not handled properly.


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

Actually the door is super easy to open when disconnected! Much easier than when it is connected...


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

Well, you'd expect it to be easier than when connected! The opener kinda' gets in the way!

The question is, could you wife easily open the door with one hand?


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

Yes, the door is super easy to open and she can open one-handed without issue. Once you get it started it almost goes up on it's own right now...


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

It's probably not the door. I've seen several happenings, including one here, where plastic gears in the opener have worn out. Maybe something like that? have you physically inspected the whole drivetrain for the opener? Have you run it with the door disconnected to and watched it operate up close?


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

Looks like after all this I'm gonna have to call out the pro's. Everything seems to work fine with the door detached. The carriage moves back and forth just fine and nothing (to the untrained eye) seems as though it isn't working or broken...


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

Have you done what JohnWill suggested - checking the plastic gears to see if they may be damaged (shredded, missing teeth, etc.)? 

Have you disengaged the door and then activated the opener to see if the opener's motor and gears work as they should without the garage door load on it?


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

I have not taken anything apart to inspect the interior but as mentioned previously, everything works fine when u assist the door or it's disengaged and just the carriage is running back and forth...


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

You need to actually inspect the gears, my guess is that you have wear there and with the load of the garage door it doesn't work.


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

I assume you do not see any shavings of plastic when you look inside the case. 

I assume you checked your torsion springs to make sure they are sound, unbroken, and working correctly. 

Your garage door should open smoothly and VERY easily from a fully closed position. The door should open with just a few pounds of lifting force - aided almost 100% by the torsion springs. 

If your opener operates the lifting mechanism with the door disengaged this suggests that something has changed with the door itself - namely the lifting (torsion) springs, or the roller wheels are binding. However, you say that the door can be lifted (when disengaged from the opener) with one finger, which suggests the problem is with the opener's gearing. So...the problem is either one (the door) or the other (the opener). 

I would check the door and springs again and make sure they are okay and there's no bind and the door is very easily opened - then I would check the gears in the opener to see if one or both may be damaged, or the spacing (mesh) may be sloppy due to bearing wear. You may have a situation where the bushing(s) that hold the gear spindle are wobbly and will only mesh the gears under absolultely no load whatsoever. However, when the smallest amount of load is put on the gears they separate slightly and don't engage their teeth...or the gear's teeth are shreaded just enough so a load causes them not to mesh.


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

Just took everything apart. I do not see any plastic teeth, gears, etc.

There is a motor, a metal wheel/gear and a chain. Nothing seems to be broken or loose!


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

smoofie said:


> Just took everything apart. I do not see any plastic teeth, gears, etc.
> 
> There is a motor, a metal wheel/gear and a chain. Nothing seems to be broken or loose!


If you were to wrap a heavy cloth or towel around the chain (so-as not to injure your hand or get your hand greasy) and hold onto the chain tightly while operating the opener - could you stop the chain from moving?


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

Got it!

The torque from the door was causing it to spin since it was cracked as it is indeed plastic 

Now to identify and order 

Thanks Koot!!!


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

smoofie said:


> Got it!
> 
> The torque from the door was causing it to spin since it was cracked as it is indeed plastic
> 
> ...


Excellent!  What you found doesn't surprise me one bit. It was just a matter of finding a better way for you to find the problem. Nothing like "hands on" troubleshooting!


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

Thanks! Never would have dug that deep without ya!


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

Your symptoms suggested it was a physical geartrain issue, glad you got it nailed.

Note that if this opener is really old, it may be a challenge to find spare parts, apparently those that don't meed the new regulations have no parts available. I have a friend that had a similar issue, his was the plastic worm gear. No parts nohow for it.


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

It's only about 9 years old and even though I dropped the $20 on the capacitor, the GEAR is only $9


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

Take the cap back for a refund.


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

JohnWill said:


> Take the cap back for a refund.


Most places would have a no return policy on an electrical part like that.

IMO

At least I do 

Given the age of the unit he is better off to replace it anyway. IMO


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

After a slight delay (due to me breaking another piece) I have everything in place but clearly put something in backwards or in reverse...

The door closed fine the first time I fired it up, just like the norm. When I go to open it stops as soon as the trigger (on the rail the chain is in) is released by the carriage moving a few inches. It's not spinning like it was before, it just stops like it thinks it's done. I'm sure this is an easy fix for a pro but I can not seem to figure out what I could have put together incorrect or backwards, etc...

Ideas?

Thanks again!

Bob


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

how much did you monkey around with the limit switches ??


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

The only thing I ever really played with was how much opening power which I have tried to fiddle with but it clearly stops as soon as the trigger is released regardless of where I turn that knob...



wacor said:


> how much did you monkey around with the limit switches ??


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

I'm assuming this has to be a flip of a switch or some form of electrical change?


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

Lost...

Am I correct in assuming it could have nothing to do with when way I put the new gear in? It went down just fine so I'm assuming not.


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

My guess is that you have the effort sensor setting(s) misadjusted or you have a problem with your safety sensor "eyes" (installed near the floor on either side of the garage door). For the latter, check the aiming of the sensors and also make sure the wires are terminated in the operator correctly. (Did you remove any wires coming from the eye sensors when you changed the broken gear and shaft?) Some "eyes" may have an activation circuit in the operator. I would look at the effort settings first.

What exactly do you mean (in a previous post) when you say; "_It's not spinning like it was before_"? What's not spinning?

Also, you have never told us what brand and model opener you have. Is it a secret?

Do you have an owners manual for the operator? There are so many models and versions of openers being used. Some of the newer ones have a very nice and rather sophisticated method of adjusting the "effort" controls with threshold blicking lights, etc. Thus, it would be most helpful for you to have an owners manual to get things set up correctly.


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

No secrets here 

It's a Genie Chain Glide -

I have never made any changes to the "eyes" or even been in that area. The door will go down completely if I start it in the open position. It's only when I go to open and it moves the 4-5 inches before the trigger is "tripped" by the door moving and it stops.

The "spinning" I was referring to it doing before is when the gear was broken and it would just run and run (spinning) which has been fixed.

What do the triggers do anyhow? My guess... This particular trigger is ACTUALLY suppose to cut the motor off when the door is going down instead of it actually shutting it down when it is going up? The trigger closer to the main unit would be the one that when "tripped" would again cause the motor to stop? For some reason it seems as though they are just reversed?



Koot said:


> My guess is that you have the effort sensor setting(s) misadjusted or you have a problem with your safety sensor "eyes" (installed near the floor on either side of the garage door). For the latter, check the aiming of the sensors and also make sure the wires are terminated in the operator correctly. (Did you remove any wires coming from the eye sensors when changing the gear and shaft? Some "eyes" may have an activation circuit in the operator. I would look at the effort settings first.
> 
> What exactly do you mean (in a previous post) when you say; "_It's not spinning like it was before_"? What's not spinning?
> 
> ...


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

Your Close limit switch has color brown wires. The Open limit switch has white color wires. Make sure the limit switches are attached and oriented correctly for Close and Open door movement limits. The Close limit switch is attached on top of the rail - and has a point arrow that should be pointing to the door end of the rail. The Open limit switch (white wire) is attached to the rail where the chain attaches to the carriage slide near the operator. The Open limit switch has a point arrow that should be pointing to the operator. The Close limit switch (with brown wires) should be about 12" from the rail strap. The white wires (Open) go to terminals #4 & #5. The brown wires (Close) go to terminals #5 & #6. (Terminal #5 should therefore have one brown and one white wire.)

Check this and see if you have the limit switches mounted and wired correctly.


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

It sounds like you have a problem with either the Open force adjustment setting...or the Open limit switch mounting on the rail. 


1. Adjusting limit switches.
&#8226; Locate force control knobs on power head.
&#8211; Gently turn both control knobs
counter-clockwise until they stop.
&#8226; Verify emergency release lever in disengaged
position.
&#8226; Verify &#8220;OPEN&#8221; limit switch at point where chain
attaches to carriage slide.
&#8226; Manually close door.
&#8226; Move the &#8220;CLOSE&#8221; limit switch:
&#8211; Loosen set screw.
&#8211; Slide limit switch along rail to align front edge
of switch with back edge of carriage.
&#8211; Gently tighten set screw.
&#8226; Press wall control button.
&#8211; Carriage slide will move toward power head
and stop at the &#8220;OPEN&#8221; limit switch.
&#8226; Manually open door.
&#8226; Move the &#8220;OPEN&#8221; limit switch:
&#8211; Loosen set screw.
&#8211; Slide limit switch along rail to align front edge
of switch with back edge of carriage.
&#8211; Gently tighten set screw.
&#8211; Manually close door.
&#8226; Place emergency release lever in engaged
position.
&#8226; Press wall control button.
&#8211; Carriage slide will move toward door, engage
with carriage and stop at &#8220;CLOSE&#8221; limit switch.

2. Adjusting &#8220;OPEN&#8221; force.
&#8226; Press wall control button.
&#8211; Door should open and stop at &#8220;OPEN&#8221; limit.
&#8226; Door does not fully open.
&#8211; Press wall control button.
&#8211; Door should close and stop at &#8220;CLOSE&#8221; limit.
&#8211; Turn &#8220;OPEN&#8221; force control knob slightly in
clockwise direction.
&#8211; Press wall control button.
a. Continue step 2 until door opens completely.
3. Adjusting &#8220;CLOSE&#8221; force.
&#8226; Door is not fully closing.
&#8211; Cycle door, turning &#8220;CLOSE&#8221; force knob
clockwise slightly each time until door reaches
fully closed.

Always set the door operator to the minimum
force required to operate the door.

Operating.
&#8226; Press remote button once.
&#8211; Door will move.
&#8226; Press button again.
&#8211; Door will stop.
&#8226; Press button again.
&#8211; Door will move in opposite direction.
The door will stop automatically at the fully
open or fully closed position.

CONTACT REVERSE TEST
The force adjustments and limit switch
settings MUST BE COMPLETED before testing
contact reverse.
1. Testing.
&#8226; Open garage door using wall control.
&#8211; Place a 2" x 4" board (laid flat) under center
of garage door opening.
&#8211; Close door using wall control.
&#8226; When door hits board, it must stop and
reverse (within 2 seconds) to open position.
2. Adjustment.
&#8226; Door does not properly reverse.
&#8211; Check to see if door is at &#8220;close&#8221; limit.
&#8211; It should not have reached limit switch
before hitting board.
&#8226; Door is at close limit switch.
&#8211; Move limit switch closer to door.
&#8226; Test again. Repeat as necessary.
&#8226; Door is not reaching &#8220;close&#8221; limit, but
still does not reverse.
&#8211; Decrease &#8220;CLOSE FORCE &#8220; setting
slightly (turn it counter-clockwise).
&#8226; Test again. Repeat as necessary.

Note: You should have a solid Red light and a solid Green light on your troubleshooting board. Tell me if this is what you are seeing. You should have no blinking lights...or lights that are not lit.


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

I'll review in the AM when I have some good light but none of these areas have been touched at any point and worked fine before I switched out the gear. I'll report back 

Thank you very much!

Bob



Koot said:


> Your Close limit switch has color brown wires. The Open limit switch has white color wires. Make sure the limit switches are attached and oriented correctly for Close and Open door movement limits. The Close limit switch is attached on top of the rail - and has a point arrow that should be pointing to the door end of the rail. The Open limit switch (white wire) is attached to the rail where the chain attaches to the carriage slide near the operator. The Open limit switch has a point arrow that should be pointing to the operator. The Close limit switch (with brown wires) should be about 12" from the rail strap. The white wires (Open) go to terminals #4 & #5. The brown wires (Close) go to terminals #5 & #6. (Terminal #5 should therefore have one brown and one white wire.)
> 
> Check this and see if you have the limit switches mounted and wired correctly.


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

Don't forget this: http://forums.techguy.org/7656575-post42.html


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

I'm back to thinking it has more to do with the gear I replaced. I have checked all of the other items and they all seem to be in "check". When I taped the trigger down the door still only moved a few inches. Every time I pushed the open button it moved a few inches at a time until all the way up...

When I took the gear out and apart I realized the round portion of the rod (not sure of it's technical term) did not fit easily into the metal sleeve type piece that sits in the casing. I have included images of the pieces and how I think they go back together. None of the manuals give an exploded view of this gear box so I am not completely sure how it goes together but the second image (minus the gear so you can see the other pieces) is how I think they should be going in.

Am I doing something wrong when putting back together?

All of the pieces for the gear box









How I think these pieces go together









Thanks again!

Bob


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

Gearbox components:


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

I'm assuming when part 29 goes into part 28 it should move freely? It fits very tight as I have to force it in which makes me think it could be difficult for it to rotate causing this issue?


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

smoofie said:


> How I think these pieces go together





smoofie said:


> I'm assuming when part 29 goes into part 28 it should move freely? It fits very tight as I have to force it in which makes me think it could be difficult for it to rotate causing this issue?


It looks like in the lower image that the round part of the gear shaft is "out of" the bushing (part #28) and not seated. Maybe this is just how you just set the parts to take a picture. Dunno. But, I would think the gear shaft should not be difficult at all to fully seat into the busing when assembling...unless the bushing is damaged or the end of the shaft is really scuffed up and badly scarred, which looks like may be the case.


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

Yes, I did not put it in all the way as that is the point where there is resistance which I'm assuming there should not be. Nothing feels scuffed but it does not go in easy nor does it spin easily once in...


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

smoofie said:


> Yes, I did not put it in all the way as that is the point where there is resistance which I'm assuming there should not be. Nothing feels scuffed but it does not go in easy nor does it spin easily once in...


Are you suggesting that the resistance of the gear shaft in the base bushing is so great that it could cause the opener to (in essence) lock-up? Is it really that tight? I cannot imagine how the shaft and/or bushing could become so damaged. It's not like the shaft/bushing operation is high speed, nor (I don't think) is the shaft/bushing operation under any significant pressure or force. Do you think the gear shaft and/or base bushing could have been damaged when the original gear broke? Have you checked the gear assembly housing to see if it is cracked?

I feel sure that the gear shaft should easily rotate in the base bushing. I would take something like emery cloth or even sandpaper and try to smooth any burrs or markings from the bottom of the gear shaft and clean up the inside of the base bushing, and then apply some grease.


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## smoofie (Sep 13, 2010)

It is definitely tigh and not what I would expect it should be. I have no idea how it became that way as nothing feels rough. I'm now wondering if this is what caused the failure in the original gear (see below)?

If it was not turning smoothly maybe the gear was taking all of the torque?

Maybe that is why the door goes down fine but only goes up 6" at a time?


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

I don't know! I believe, if it was me with the problem, I would call a garage door installer (e.g. Overhead Door) and ask for a technician. Tell the technician that you have your opener (give him the brand and model) taken apart and you would simply like to know if the gear shaft is supposed to easily rotate in the base bushing...because yours does not. Tell him that you have already experienced a broken gear that fits on the gear shaft. Maybe he'll tell you what his experience has been when a gear shears/breaks from the gear shaft, and also about your tight fitting bushing and gear shaft. Beyond that, I'm at a loss for anything meaningful that may help you besides suggesting that you buy an entire gear assembly and replace the one you have now.


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