# SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION and CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED BSOD



## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Long story short: I got a blue screen saying SYSTEM_SERVICE _EXCEPTION when starting up my PC, and after it start it up properly, The desktop was black and the toolbar was blinking.

However, I feel like some context could help to solve these issues. There's quite a lot so I apologize if I waffle on a bit.

So, recently, I'd had some major issues installing windows to my PC; I couldn't get it to install onto the SSD that I wanted. As soon as the PC would restart after the USB phase of the installation, it would come up with an error message, saying that I needed to restart the installation. I was initially trying to install windows 8.1 but I then bought a key for windows 10 to see if that would change anything. I could install both windows 10 and 8.1 successfully onto my other drives, but neither were stable, as the windows taskbar and start menu would freeze in windows 8.1, but not any 'non windows' elements such as software I had downloaded. On windows 10 it would run slow and get bluescreens such as SYSTEM_SERVICE _EXCEPTION, as well as CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED. Thinking it was something to do with drivers, I went and made sure they were all up to date. I ran chkdsk on all of my drives, including the USB I used for installation, to find nothing wrong. Anyways, I managed to get windows onto my preferred SSD by updating my BIOS, which also fixed another issue I was having, where my PC would not restart properly. However, windows was still running slow again, even after updating the BIOS e.g. discord lagging and firefox freezing, and I got the SYSTEM_SERVICE _EXCEPTION bluescreen. After that, a black desktop with a blinking toolbar appeared after rebooting. I'm currently re installing windows again, as I had no restore point to go back to. I did also make sure that all the latest firmware for my drives was installed.

Perhaps its worth noting that the reason I wanted a fresh install of windows in the first place was that Far Cry 5 was freezing for a few seconds every time an on screen message popped up, or I tried to open a menu. Re installing windows actually made it even worse, as now it was straight up crashing randomly, often blue screening and showing the system service exception message. I haven't had a chance to test if it is working now, but Skyrim was also freezing randomly too, which was another reason for my re installation.

In terms of my temperatures, they are all fine. I highly doubt that there is anything wrong with my memory as I just replaced it not long ago. I'm beginning to think maybe its something to do with my motherboard, because at this point I just have no idea why these issues just happen randomly. I have spare GPUs to test with to see if thats the issue, but I doubt that my GPU has anything to do with it. I'm guessing if my CPU was broken then my PC just wouldn't boot. I did replace my CPU cooler recently due to high temperatures, which did nothing to help my performance. I've checked my hard drives for errors and there were none. My power supply is actually probably overkill in terms of wattage for my current system. The only thing I could think of is my motherboard, but I don't know how to diagnose issues with it.

It just seems like I have some kind of underlying issue that's just been around for ages, because I seem to just have problem after problem. For example, I had a problem a while ago with a bluescreen that said irql_not_less_or_equal, which doesn't cause any problems now, but it would only happen when I had a specific SSD installed. The SSD had no errors when I ran chkdsk, and still doesn't today. As well as this, I've had problems with a hard drive just disappearing from the list under 'this pc' randomly, which I never managed to fix and just assumed it was dead, despite having it for probably less than a year. I recently had problems with stuttering games again, and a BSOD with the message PAGE FAULT IN NONPAGED AREA, which led me to believe there was something wrong with my RAM, yet after replacing it I'm still having similar issues.* I don't know if these issues have any correlation to my problems now but I felt like they were worth noting anyway.* Any help is appreciated.

Specs
GPU: MSI GTX 970
CPU: I7 4790K @ 4.0GHZ, COOLED BY A DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX 400
RAM: 2x 8GB PATRIOT VIPER RAM 1600MHZ
STORAGE: (OS) 120GB KINGSTON SSD, WD BLUE 2TB HDD, 275GB CRUCIAL SSD
MOTHERBOARD: MSI Z87-G45
PSU: CORSAIR MX750M
MONITOR: LG 34 INCH 2560x1080 21:9 MONITOR
FANS: 4 CORSAIR CASE FANS
CASE: CORSAIR 230t


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Your post is extremely difficult to read, in the main block of text, there is no paragraphs it is a somewhat overwhelming wall of text.
However think I have the basics of the situation.

Going back briefly to your other topic, which appeared after a BIOS update to result in the successful install of 10. On that topic you said


> using Rufus instead of the Windows 7 media creation tool to create a bootable USB: nothing


There is no need to use RUFUS *and you certainly should not use the Windows 7 media creation tool to install Windows 10.*
Download 10 from here following the directions for create installation media
https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10

The tool will create your USB - select correct language and bit version - in your case 64bit.

Going back again to your previous topic you need to configure UEFI in your firmware
and AHCI mode for SATA as in 3-8 of your motherboard manual.
DO NOT try and change this after the install, otherwise Windows will not load

[AHCI Mode] Specify the AHCI mode for SATA storage devices. - that is actually the default mode, but if you changed it to IDE you need to change it back before the install

DISCONNECT the two drives to which Windows is NOT going to be installed

If on boot from the USB made as above on boot options menu you have two listings for the USB - one naming just the USB and the other for the USB proceeded by or including UEFI - you want the UEFI option

DO NOT use diskpart - use the installation GUI for Windows to delete all partitions
So you are then going to install to the total unallocated space on the 120GB drive
The partitions for the UEFI install of 10 will be automatically created and you follow the procedure as here
- under the section UEFI install

https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/1950-clean-install-windows-10-a.html
PLEASE READ all the proceeding sections but follow section 13 for your install

IF ONE of the partitions will not delete using the GUI of the install post back and I will provide an alternative method.

DO NOT at this stage install any software, you need to test the system with a base install of Windows 10
However do run updates.
DO NOT install any third party anti virus, run with the included Windows Defender.

It is ONLY by following this procedure that we stand any reasonable chance of sorting your problem out


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Macboatmaster said:


> Your post is extremely difficult to read, in the main block of text, there is no paragraphs it is a somewhat overwhelming wall of text.
> However think I have the basics of the situation.
> 
> Going back briefly to your other topic, which appeared after a BIOS update to result in the successful install of 10. On that topic you said
> ...


Sorry for the confusion, I was in a bit of a rush. I've tried rephrasing some things and splitting it into paragraphs. In short, the problem now is no longer the issue from the previous thread I had started, as windows installs perfectly normally now. The problem is that it is just so unstable, and I'm getting the bluescreens that I referred to in this thread. I was talking about my previous issue just in case it had any correlation with my current issue.

I got another bluescreen just before when testing Far Cry again, this time with a different error message: kernel_security_check_failure. I ran the sfc/scannow utility in cmd and there didn't seem to be any problems, and I also ran the windows memory test: no problems. In addition, I ran the Driver Verifier, but I'm not sure it even did anything.

Now I've had to reinstall windows AGAIN, because I got the black desktop. However, the desktop did eventually load, but because I tried switching to IDE mode afterwards, I think that messed everything up, because it brings up the windows repair screen, with the options of "troubleshoot, boot from cd/dvd, continue to windows" etc. Every time I restarted the same would happen, regardless of my PC being in IDE or AHCI mode, and regardless of the option I picked.


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

When you reply please type in the box that appears, when you return to the topic
Please do not reply by clicking reply on my post, that as you can see, quotes back all my post.

I recommend you follow the procedure I outlined.
If you have installed windows in legacy mode, you are going the wrong way. Windows 10 64 bit on that computer needs to be installed UEFI
As I said do NOT try and change SATA mode after an install It NEVER works


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

I've already done exactly as you said


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Do you mean that YOU have CLEAN installed Windows 10 from a newly made USB using the link I sent you and without ANY other apps on that drive and with the OTHER two drives disconnected you still get a crash


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Well I can't possibly say yet, because the crash would only happen after using the PC for a while or running Far Cry. But yes I have a clean installation of windows 10 running right now, with no third party software, just no crash yet


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Go to your motherboard site
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/z87-g45-gaming#down-driver&Win10 64
download and install the chipset driver

Version
10.1.1.45
Release Date
2018-06-27
File Size
3.62 MB

The REBOOT and go settings Windows update
Allow it to install all updates
Post back when done with any relevant messages, failures etc.


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

I did still use rufus though, as every tutorial I found said to use rufus to create a bootable USB, so I don't know how to do it any other way. I hope that doesn't matter much


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

It matters VERY much if you have not used RUFUS correctly as if you have used it wrongly there is every chance we are in legacy mode
Do you know if you are
Check System information it will tell you on system summary
OR check disk management
IF you have any doubt at all as to how you installed

If you wish to continue with my help PLEASE do as I ask, whilst of course at the same time, you may query anything you wish


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Please note offline for evening meal back about 2030 hrs UK time now 1944


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Okay so it was in UEFI mode by the looks of things. Sorry if I'm being a little frustrating to deal with, I don't mean to be.

Anyway, is there any guides or anything you could send of how to make a bootable legacy USB using this iso properly? I've looked at a few guides but they're telling me to use software to create a bootable usb, and I don't know if theres a specific one I should use, or if I should be using one at all.


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

I got the windows 10 media creation tool for the edition of windows I was installing, should I use that instead of the ISO?


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

*SORRY I AM A little later than I said*
Re this


> Sorry if I'm being a little frustrating to deal with, I don't mean to be.


You are not, we will get it sorted.

Why do you want to make a legacy usb


ErvinBoyes said:


> Anyway, is there any guides or anything you could send of how to make a bootable legacy USB using this iso properly?


we are installing UEFI mode

RUFUS is OK but if used incorrectly can end up making a legacy install where as the one from Microsoft on the USB makes both and it is how the computer boots that determines which is used.

If you refer back to the install instructions
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/1950-clean-install-windows-10-a.html
on section 13 second image down on a UEFI install you would have those partitions and on disk management you would see them

Also on system information it would list UEFI
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/85195-check-if-windows-10-using-uefi-legacy-bios.html

The other thing is I notice you say you bought a Windows 10 key
There was no need to do this as you could have installed it for free from the 8.1 OS
Where was they key from and did you actually use it

The reason I ask is that keys on ebay and the like that are unbelievably cheap are often either already used VLK keys that will undoubtedly be blocked by Microsoft OR
OEM keys that may well not match your BIOS table and hardware and may then cause problems when checked by the Microsoft update servers.
This is so even if Windows activated on this install with the purchased key


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Yeah it was definitely in UEFI mode then, thats where I checked it. I don't really know what I meant by the making the USB legacy lol, it doesn't matter anyways, as I've made the USB through the windows media creation tool. I got the key from some site called "gamivo", its one of those game key sites, and it does seem to work actually, but just to make sure it didn't cause any errors with the installation, I just skipped the step where it asks for you key. I was planning on switching from windows 8.1 anyway because there were games that I couldn't play on 8.1 such as Forza Horizon.

So, I've installed a fresh copy of windows now using the windows media creation tool, following your instructions. However, even though my bios is set to UEFI+LEGACY mode (there is no individual legacy mode in the options), it still says UEFI in the system information.


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

1. Just to go back a step for future information - what I was meaning regarding Rufus when I said re UEFI install see this
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/2376-create-bootable-usb-flash-drive-install-windows-10-a.html
section 6 and 7.

2. The other issue is you may have missed the detail in my first post


> Going back again to your previous topic you need to configure UEFI in your firmware


From your motherboard manual

Boot Mode Select [LEGACY+UEFI]
Sets the system boot mode from legacy or UEFI architecture depending on OS
installation requirement.
[UEFI] Enables UEFI BIOS boot mode support only.
[LEGACY+UEFI] Enables both Legacy BIOS boot mode and UEFI BIOS boot mode.

3. Go to BIOS set UEFI mode that is what you need for 10 when installed in UEFI mode

4. Is Windows activated and NOW updated, as per my post 8 and have you installed chipset driver I sent you


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Re the key If it was the one on offer at approx. £6.95 I think I can assure you that it would have been a most unwise use.
Will wait to hear from you on how things are before we proceed


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Ok so, the windows is activated, updated, and the chipset drivers are installed. I've already noticed something weird though

I can assure you, that all I have done, is those exact 3 things and nothing else, and in the installation, I only had one ssd installed, which I deleted the partitions for. I still have that one SSD installed, which in theory should only have windows and the driver I installed, and yet somehow, a shortcut for uplay and discord are on my desktop, as well as a copy of the shortcut for microsoft edge. Of course when I click the uplay and discord shortcuts it just says that the path doesnt exist, but I don't understand how they are there.

Other than that, everything else seems to be normal, and windows has seemingly activated without any problems using the key I bought


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

ErvinBoyes said:


> and windows has seemingly activated without any problems using the key I bought


I am confused -as I thought you said you had NOT used the key
I thought you said you did not need to.



ErvinBoyes said:


> but just to make sure it didn't cause any errors with the installation, I just skipped the step where it asks for you key.


It must have already been registered on the activation servers at Microsoft from the earlier installation.
I suspect you may have problems at sometime, but I do not know.

IF you wish to send me the key by PERSONAL CONVERSATION not by posting it on here I will check as far as I am able to ascertain its legitimacy

If Uplay and Discord are on the system then either they were on the USB and I cannot imagine that, OR the partitions were NOT all deleted, sometimes the installation fails to delete a partition, as I mentioned on my post. It is at this moment a puzzle to me

Right click the shortcut for uplay or discord - click properties
on the target entry - box what is shown please


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

I activated windows after installing it, as I thought thats what you meant by this:


Macboatmaster said:


> 4. Is Windows activated and NOW updated


For Uplay it is: "C:\Program Files (x86)\Ubisoft\Ubisoft Game Launcher\Uplay.exe"
For Discord it says: C:\Users\ervin\AppData\Local\Discord\Update.exe --processStart Discord.exe

These destinations don't exist on my PC

Also, this same thing happened on two prior installations recently. One of these times was earlier today actually


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Also I did format the USB before using the windows media creation tool, and this was on a different pc too, so I don't see how uplay or discord could have gotten onto it


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Macboatmaster said:


> I suspect you may have problems at sometime, but I do not know


By problems do you mean that I'll get a message saying that windows is not genuine, or that I will have actual performance issues with my PC?


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

*You are correct, I never thought about the key having already been used on your previous installation*
It must be the drive to which Windows was installed had the remnants of these programs already on the partition

Did you see the aspect of my post regarding the key sent to me by Personal conversation.

A common cause of the problems you appear to have is the GTX 970 driver
Your board has integrated graphics in the processor and a graphics port on the I/O plate
1x VGA port, supporting a maximum resolution of 1920x1200 @60Hz

1x HDMI® port, supporting a maximum resolution of [email protected], 24bpp/ [email protected], 24bp
[email protected], 36bpp

1x DVI-D port, supporting a maximum resolution of 1920x1200 @ 60Hz

They will NOT be as good as the 970 but the
https://ark.intel.com/products/80807/Intel-Core-i7-4790K-Processor-8M-Cache-up-to-4-40-GHz-
HD4600 are not that bad

Please go to BIOS set
initiate Graphic Adapter [PEG]
Selects a graphics device as the primary boot device.

*[IGD] Integrated Graphics Display.
Save and exit*

Shut down open case take out MSI card
Connect to I/O plate graphics

Then if after connecting another drive whilst case is open - if you need to to play the game that previously crashed
Please test with that game and report result

The idea behind this is that if you continue to use the GTX 970 and it crashes we may suspect that.
If it is NOT in the system and it crashes we KNOW 100% it is not the card or the driver.

*PLEASE NOTE do not install UPlay OR Discord they are BOTH common causes of crashes on 10 and may have been the cause of the problems.

HOWEVER *still proceed as above please with the graphics

*OFFLINE NOW for an hour that should give you time to test on the game with the integrated graphics*


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

To answer your last - genuine question problems - not performance



Macboatmaster said:


> The reason I ask is that keys on ebay and the like that are unbelievably cheap are often either already used VLK keys that will undoubtedly be blocked by Microsoft OR
> OEM keys that may well not match your BIOS table and hardware and may then cause problems when checked by the Microsoft update servers.
> This is so even if Windows activated on this install with the purchased key


That said only time will tell


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

I've switched to the integrated graphics now, the only issue is that to be able to test it, I'd need to install Uplay, as Far Cry 5 was the game that was having the most issues, and as far as I know without uplay I cant launch it. That game would crash after a max of like 5 mins so it would be easiest to test.


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Spoke too soon, before I could boot up it took me to some screen with gray and yellow text, telling me to press any key. I restarted, then it took me to the automatic repair, and after restarting again I got the CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED bluescreen just after the BIOS. It then took me to the automatic repair again, but I've loaded up onto the desktop just now though. By the way, I hadn't installed uplay or anything for that matter, it was still the same windows as before, apart from the fact that I was using integrated graphics.

I'll be leaving to get some sleep now though. I'm really really grateful for the help thus far


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Cheers
The problem is it would appear, a possible hardware error
With what is effectively a vanilla installation of windows it could be a driver but more likely to be hardware
When you resume we will continue
See please if you have a dump file from the BSOD
If you have send it to me

Windows
Mini Dump folder
open that see if there is a dump file in there if so right click - hold mouse on send to - choose compressed file on desktop and then attach that on your reply please.

Has OR is the system overclocked.


ErvinBoyes said:


> I did replace my CPU cooler recently *due to high temperatures*,


See if you can run this
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/19792/Intel-Processor-Diagnostic-Tool

read the notes OC if you have it set must be disabled before testing


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Ok so I just booted up this morning, with 2 new bluescreens. It gave me the screen with the grey and yellow text again, and upon restarting I got a bluescreen with no name but a code of 0xc000021a. After that another one titled PROCESS1 INITIALISATION FAILED. My PC then did manage to boot after, albeit very slowly. Upon starting up I was presented with an error message from onedrive which said: "The instruction at 0x0000000071e4b8fo referenced memory at 0x0000000071e4b8fo. The required data was not placed into memory because of an I/O error status of 0xc0000483"

I also installed the intel diagnostic tool and it passed all tests.

I've never OCd my CPU before. I think the reason that the temperatures were high before was that I had a Dark Rock Pro 3 BK019, which was incredibly difficult to install. I re assembled it many times but it seems I never got it to be installed correctly, because switching to a deepcool gammaxx 400 which was less than a quarter of the price reduced the max temperatures by 30 degrees.

The thing is, the cooler did work at one point, it just started to act up recently by the looks of things, and it wasn't dusty or anything like that. The problem may have actually been that the fans weren't spinning, because something I noticed after switching cooler was that the fans sometimes didn't spin upon boot, and I'd have to move the fan myself for it to actually do anything. That being said, I'm pretty sure the fans were spinning.


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

I might add that I didn't put the GPU back in at all


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

This


> Ok so I just booted up this morning, with 2 new bluescreens. It gave me the screen with the grey and yellow text again, and upon restarting I got a bluescreen with no name but a code of 0xc000021a. After that another one titled PROCESS1 INITIALISATION FAILED. My PC then did manage to boot after, albeit very slowly. Upon starting up I was presented with an error message from onedrive which said: "*The instruction at 0x0000000071e4b8fo referenced memory at 0x0000000071e4b8fo. The required data was not placed into memory because of an I/O error status of 0xc0000483*"


MAY indicate a ram problem or a drive problem
As you have already replaced the ram lets look firstly at the drive

I know you have run chkdsk before but please run
https://www.kingston.com/en/support/technical/ssdmanager
read the user guide the link to the pdf is on the link above

With the number of different errors and the whole sequence of events I still suspect a hardware issue - ma\y not be the device itself of course, could be connections., rather than a driver issue.

*NOT back online until approx. 1400 hrs.*

In the meantime see this
https://forums.techguy.org/threads/i-cant-disable-secure-boot-to-boot-windows-from-cd.1221777/page-2

Post 16 and 17
YOU can make the 64bit Puppy
http://distro.ibiblio.org/puppylinux/puppy-slacko-6.3.2/64/slacko64-6.3.2-uefi.iso

Although it was used on the link for a different reason, you are using it to see if you still get crashes running Puppy in RAM
You are not of course going to install it = simply boot the computer from the DVD or the USB


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Just installed the Kingston SSD manager. It says that there are no failures, no warnings, and that the drive is overall healthy. Not sure if it is of any use but I attached a text file which I got from exporting the data from the health tab.

Going to try the other steps ASAP


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Okay so I've booted it in RAM. No crashes or anything yet. Any tests I should do?


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

I agree the Kingston test reveals no problems whatsoever with the drive
Boot Puppy -connect to the internet - wired I presume using the Connect shortcut to the left of this desktop and then the browse button - next but one above it
see screenshot







Open C drive probably sda1 lower left of screen, open users, then you, then photos etc.

Test using all available means on the Puppy

I am sure you have found out, but Puppy is all single click, no double clicking


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Is it ok to download any software? It doesn't seem like I have any issues so far. 

Also is there anything I could do thats similar to a windows update? Becuase usually thats when problems would start happening the most


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

One thing I notice, although it may not be important, is some kind of coil whine coming from the are of the cpu/ram. If i move a window around for example, it becomes more audible


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Ok so its been running for a couple of hours now. I rebooted to see if anything happened an it seemed fine. The only error I've gotten was when a I tried opening my c drive. it said this:

"The ntfs-3g driver was unable to mount the NTFS
partition and returned this error message:
Failed to write lock '/dev/sda4': Resource temporarily unavailable
Error opening '/dev/sda4': Resource temporarily unavailable
Failed to mount '/dev/sda4': Resource temporarily unavailable

So, the inbuilt kernel NTFS driver has been used
to mount the partition read-only."


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Yes you can download

The whine maybe the PSU if mounted topside - caused by it running on low demand

= so have you never yet mounted the drive and then opened music, pics etc.
this being your first attempt from post 33

and when it mounted read only - can you get to your pictures etc in Windows and open those


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

I can access things yes


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

I tried installing discord, as a good indication of whether things were working before was whether or not the pc was working was if it was lagging. However, when I click the application under internet>discord, nothing happens. Is this me being new to the OS and doing something wrong, or is something going on here?


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

For LINUX I take it
https://discordapp.com/download

The fail to mount can be an indication that Linux thinks there is a fault in the file system
OR it can be a feature such as hibernation of windows 10
In a cmd terminal for Puppy run this cmd

*ntfs-3g --version*


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

I got my download from that location, and I downloaded the deb

as for the other thing, the result I got was: ntfs-3g 2013.1.13 integrated FUSE 27


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

I do not think it will prove anything but I had no problem with discord - you go to downloads and simply click it


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

1. I am sorry I have not been able to devote a lot of time to you this past evening, but I have had domestic commitments

2. I think it is time to come out of Puppy, the reason for running it was as I said to test the ram and CPU and PSU to the extent possible, and the integrated graphics etc.

3. If there was an error in that hardware, I think it would have shown by now.

4. On your earlier topic you said


> Running a chkdsk on all my drives and the USB: no errors


What chkdsk did you run please, by that I mean
chkdsk in read only mode - as that cmd eg
C:\ > chkdsk
or chkdsk /f
etc.

I know we tested that Kingston SSD with their test, but that does not test for file errors
If you only ran a chkdsk in read only mode please run a
chkdsk /f
on the drive
That is from a cmd prompt with admin rights
then at the C: prompt type
chkdsk /f.
If the response is do you wish to force dismount type N
the response should then be - do you wish to run on restart (or that may be the first response) now type Y and restart
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/40734-drive-error-checking-windows-10-a.html#option3

The follow this to get the results from event viewer
event viewer - windows logs - application log - wininit
On the guide below you will see chkdsk and wininit search
When it is run from a cmd prompt and started on next restart the search is wininit.

https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/40822-read-chkdsk-log-event-viewer-windows-10-a.html
When you have event viewer log - copy - as text and paste to reply please.

5. Please also see if necessary your motherboard manual and check on section 3.3 as here

Temperature monitor
*Shows the temperatures of the processor and the motherboard.*

HARDWARE MONITOR - This menu is used to set the speeds of fans *and
monitor voltages of system.*

*6. *Sorry once again I could not devote good time to you last eveing


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Macboatmaster said:


> I am sorry I have not been able to devote a lot of time to you this past evening, but I have had domestic commitments


Its fine, don't worry about it. I'm not massively in a rush to get this working anyway, just want to get it over with.

I just booted up my PC to puppy when I got back, and I got an error, but it was a windows bluescreen. it was the 0xc000021a error. Not sure if that's worthy of noting, but it is what it is.

The chkdsk command I ran was chkdsk c: /f /r. I'll do it again as soon as I can and check the event viewer. I can recall having a fair few errors in the event viewer, a lot to do with the disk or something.

The motherboard temperature is around 24c, and the CPU around 31 according to the BIOS. Under voltage, the "CPU Core" for CPU1 is around 1.064, and the "CPU I/O" around 1.024. For what I'm assuming are PSU voltages, the System/3.3v is around 3.328, the 5v around 5.080, and 12v around 12.144.

I don't know if this is normal, but in the hardware monitor section it is giving me higher temps for the CPU, around 44C, and its not changing at all


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

I was thinking it might be worth testing the SSD by booting it from my laptop using a sata to usb cable? I tried it yesterday and it booted perfectly normally, where as today I've tried to boot from my PC and again got a CRITICAL PROCESS DIED bsod.


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Ok just got ANOTHER bsod trying to boot right after that. This time a new one titled KERNEL INPAGE ERROR.

I think it may have actually been trying to boot from my USB here aswell, because I had it plugged in, and after it booted to puppy

Its becoming impossible to actually boot from my PC at this point though, I just get a bsod every time.


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Managed to my boot up to my PC, it is very slow, frame drops and just slow to load. I heard a couple of beeps at one point, which I think came from my headphones but I couldn't tell, because my PC and headphones are both to the left of me. The windows bar disappears occasionally. The screen went black for a split second as well, and it made the sound as if something was disconnected and then reconnected, similar to what would happen if you were installing graphics card drivers.

After loading event viewer, I got some sort of error mentioning something to do with MMC and unloading a snap -in. A message popped up after continuing, which I will link (I don't know how to attach images to this thread properly): _


http://imgur.com/Btle68f

_









Heres the full portion of text titled "Exception stack trace", if its any use:
_at System.RuntimeTypeHandle.CreateInstance(RuntimeType type, Boolean publicOnly, Boolean noCheck, Boolean& canBeCached, RuntimeMethodHandleInternal& ctor, Boolean& bNeedSecurityCheck)
at System.RuntimeType.CreateInstanceSlow(Boolean publicOnly, Boolean skipCheckThis, Boolean fillCache, StackCrawlMark& stackMark)
at System.Activator.CreateInstance(Type type, Boolean nonPublic)
at System.Activator.CreateInstance(Type type)
at Microsoft.ManagementConsole.FormView.InternalInitialize()
at Microsoft.ManagementConsole.View.HandleInitializationRequest(IRequestStatus requestStatus)
at Microsoft.ManagementConsole.View.ProcessRequest(Request request)
at Microsoft.ManagementConsole.ViewMessageClient.ProcessRequest(Request request)
at Microsoft.ManagementConsole.Internal.IMessageClient.ProcessRequest(Request request)
at Microsoft.ManagementConsole.Executive.RequestStatus.BeginRequest(IMessageClient messageClient, RequestInfo requestInfo)
at Microsoft.ManagementConsole.Executive.SnapInRequestOperation.ProcessRequest()
at Microsoft.ManagementConsole.Executive.Operation.OnThreadTransfer(SimpleOperationCallback callback)_

After this I just couldn't do anything. This is what event viewer looked like: _


http://imgur.com/gWi5S3a

_







. restarting the program fixed this issue though.


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Here is the text from the event viewer:

_Checking file system on C:
The type of the file system is NTFS.

A disk check has been scheduled.
Windows will now check the disk. 
Stage 1: Examining basic file system structure ...
126720 file records processed. 
File verification completed.
5437 large file records processed. 
0 bad file records processed. 
Stage 2: Examining file name linkage ...
2303 reparse records processed. 
185560 index entries processed. 
Index verification completed.
0 unindexed files scanned. 
0 unindexed files recovered to lost and found. 
2303 reparse records processed. 
Stage 3: Examining security descriptors ...
Cleaning up 30 unused index entries from index $SII of file 0x9.
Cleaning up 30 unused index entries from index $SDH of file 0x9.
Cleaning up 30 unused security descriptors.
Security descriptor verification completed.
29421 data files processed. 
CHKDSK is verifying Usn Journal...
3234384 USN bytes processed. 
Usn Journal verification completed.
CHKDSK discovered free space marked as allocated in the volume bitmap.
Windows has made corrections to the file system.
No further action is required.
116589567 KB total disk space.
26732736 KB in 91641 files.
73032 KB in 29422 indexes.
0 KB in bad sectors.
202835 KB in use by the system.
65536 KB occupied by the log file.
89580964 KB available on disk.
4096 bytes in each allocation unit.
29147391 total allocation units on disk.
22395241 allocation units available on disk.
Internal Info:
00 ef 01 00 f2 d8 01 00 10 c1 03 00 00 00 00 00 ................
4f 00 00 00 b0 08 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 O...............
Windows has finished checking your disk.
Please wait while your computer restarts._


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

We really need those chkdsk results


> can recall having a fair few errors in the event viewer, a lot to do with the disk or something.


I was becoming more convinced it is the drive - the Kingston - especially when considering those Discord and whatever it was that appeared on the drive after the deletion of the partitions and the clean install of windows . However the test using the SSD on the laptop tends to contradict that .
*Have you changed the data cable to the Kingston, just in case it is that.*

This


ErvinBoyes said:


> I just booted up my PC to puppy when I got back, and I got an error, but it was a windows bluescreen. it was the 0xc000021a error. Not sure if that's worthy of noting, but it is what it is.


cannot be possible if the computer was booted to Puppy from a USB or CD

That said the error with all the others again possibly indicates the drive problems.
*
I see temps were OK what about voltages

EDIT
Seen the chkdsk results now on your last post, there is nothing wrong there.*
The free space is a usual result
No bad file records
NO unindexed files
NO bad sectors.

*I still recommend you change the data cable for the Kingston*
Try that please and post back result and voltages before we proceed


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

ErvinBoyes said:


> Under voltage, the "CPU Core" for CPU1 is around 1.064, and the "CPU I/O" around 1.024. For what I'm assuming are PSU voltages, the System/3.3v is around 3.328, the 5v around 5.080, and 12v around 12.144.


I added this to my original message earlier, you may not have seen. I assume these are the voltages you were looking for?

I'll try changing the sata cable right away, although prior to this thread, I got similar bluescreens no matter the drive windows was installed on.


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

also this


Macboatmaster said:


> cannot be possible if the computer was booted to Puppy from a USB or CD


The USB was 100% at the top of my load order, but the error would pop up just after the bios.


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Okay just booted with a different cable, getting the same hiccups before with black screens, edge just closing out of nowhere, and overall just very slow. No bluescreens on boot though.


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Sorry I did indeed miss the voltages they are of course OK


ErvinBoyes said:


> I'll try changing the sata cable right away, although prior to this thread, I got similar bluescreen no matter the drive windows was installed on.


In view of this and the chkdsk being OK I think we can dismiss the drive.

*What is connected to the computer besides keyboard, mouse and monitor please*
It is strange that the BSOD have apparently stopped.


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

a Midi keyboard and a usb microphone. they are both plugged in along with my mouse and keyboard through a usb hub. the mouse is bluetooth and the dongle is plugged into my keyboards usb socket.



Macboatmaster said:


> It is strange that the BSOD have apparently stopped


just saying, I think that if I used the same cable then I probably woudn't have gotten any bluescreens. they seem to happen when I try to boot the next day, and then once I've actually booted succesfully, they don't really happen unless the PC has been running for a while, and I'm doing things on it, or I'm playing Far Cry 5.

I won't be able to do anything for about 2 hours because I have work that needs finishing, but if you need any more info, I will be here


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Theres also an Ethernet cable which I forgot to mention


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

OK
1. Offline tonight from about 1900 to 2230, then online until approx. 0100.

2. It MAY just be possible that it is the USB hub any chance you can take that out and use just keyboard and mouse, preferably not wireless


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Still slow with just the mouse and keyboard connected. I used a mouse that wasn't wireless either.


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

ErvinBoyes said:


> getting the same hiccups before with black screens, edge just closing out of nowhere


and still with this problem.

That board has
• 1x Killer E2205 Gigabit LAN controller
the latest driver from the Killer site is
https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/item/killer-drivers-64bit
*Version: *2.0.2332

*Release Date: *2019-01-10

*Comments: *Driver Only Installation

*Operating Systems: * Windows 7, Windows 8.1, Windows 10 64-bit

https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/category/other-downloads

I suggest you check if you have Killer Network Manager installed it should not be as MSI say
The Killer Network Manager is only available for Windows 7 and Windows 8 currently. The supported drivers for other operating systems would be available on the website if provided by vendor.
and I have read that the older driver and especially the Killer Network Manager cause problems on 10 after version

https://www.killernetworking.com/ki...4-ethernet-and-general-troubleshooting#faq_55


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Those links weren't loading on my PC, so I downloaded the driver from here: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/Z87-G45-GAMING.html#down-driver&Win10 64

I don't have the manager installed, as I'd had previous issues with a memory leak caused by it, so I know all about that.

When trying to update my driver, it said that the best one had already been installed


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

I think it is the same
The link is working for me
https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/item/killer-drivers-64bit


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Just installed those drivers, thanks.

Update: my cursor is now moving by itself even when the mouse is not plugged in. I just moves up and left slowly. This happened before installing the driver you sent me by the way


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Presuming that the new driver for the LAN will not solve the overall problem even if it solves the


ErvinBoyes said:


> edge just closing out of nowhere


Please try this to see if we isolate the cause - CPU test
https://www.mersenne.org/download/#stresstest
The 64 bit download is the top one listed

*CAUTION*
Ensure you do keep a watch on temps as described 
https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/16474-prime95-stress-test-your-cpu.html
and this includes the general test procedure


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Edge is still closing out of no where.

Anyways, just started running the test, is it normal for it to reach 99c?

Also the text on HWinfo seems to go grey sometimes, rather than being red, don't know what that means.

EDIT: been running the test for bit now, the desktop went black and refreshed. I don't know if thats anything to do with the test though, as it would do that sometimes anyway


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

also how long should I keep this running?


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Re temp max on cpu core is 75 but it depends how Prime reads it
From link I sent
Run *Prime95* for up to three hours, unless *errors occur sooner*. Depending on temperatures feel fee to run the test for longer to thoroughly test overclock or system stability

However if it is still 99 I suggest you stop it
Allow the system to cool down

Ensure computer is in good place for cooling eg NOT in enclosed unti etc.

Re run Prime using this time the Blend test
SEE this first
https://appuals.com/how-to-run-a-cpu-stress-test-using-prime95/


> *Blend*
> The Blend mode mixes both the Small FFTs and the Large FFTs. This means that it will select both small as well as large FFT sizes. The small FFT sizes will test your CPU more (just like the small FFTs) and large FFT sizes won't be enough for the CPU cache so they will use the memory as well. So, it is obvious that with Blend mode you will test both your CPU and your RAM as well.
> 
> When you select the Blend configuration, it will select all of your RAM for testing. This is because the large FFT sizes in Blend mode aren't In-place so the same portions of RAM won't be accessed over and over. Since the blend test uses your whole RAM, a fail in this test (and not others) is a solid indicator of a bad RAM.


Pay attention to ram limit so it not testing page file


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

I left it running and the PC was off when I came back.

Going to run this test now.

I find it strange that I was getting 99c, because just the other day when I stress tested my CPU, my temperatures never went above 75c.


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Well, I tried rebooting, and now I've just got a black screen, while the fan of the CPU is revving at full speed.

EDIT: it works now


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

I did not know you had stress tested it - what did YOU use


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Macboatmaster said:


> I did not know you had stress tested it - what did YOU use


OCCT, and something called HeavyLoad or something like that. To measure temps I used msi afterburner, hwinfo, and the intel tuning utility. With that said, I didn't test for long, only a couple minutes, as I just assumed my previous cooler was causing some problems, and the lower temperatures were normal and weren't going to change at all

Just been running the test now, and also watching temps, and I've noticed something odd. The temperatures were maxing out at like 70, and then when I look back up at my PC after about 5 mins its at 99c. That lasted for a while, now its back to 70C. It has been at 100% usage the whole time.


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Its just done it again now. It shot up to 86c after the cpu usage went down, and then it lowered again, and after the cpu usage went back to 100 it was at 99c.

will be gone for an hour or two, I have work to do


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

It is not just a question of temps - it is a test of whether the CPU and the ram can successfully accept and then process data and that data remains uncorrupted


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Was just running the test and got a CRITICAL PROCESS DIED bsod. Probably doesn't mean much though since it happens often anyways.

Other than temps, what should i be monitoring while the test is happening, and also how


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

You do not need to monitor anything else it will report a failure and produce a log


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Okay so, done both tests for about 3 hours in total across 2 days and well, no errors by the looks of things.

During the tests I ran today, I undervolted the CPU by 0.050v, in the hopes that the CPU wouldn't throttle throughout the whole of the test, but it did nothing to help the temperatures at all. In fact, the max voltages for the CPU were higher somehow after undervolting. 

Another thing I did was stop the CPU with my hand mid test to see what happened, and there was no change in temperature, it just stayed at 99c, even when I let the fans spin nothing changed.


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

I presume you mean stopped the cooling fan - not something I would think of doing, but perhaps very briefly will have been OK

I think we may assume that the temp of 99C in Prime is not the temp under normal operation, but under the stress of Prime.
In Firmware hardware monitor you reported it was 31.

I think you should do the following
1. Cease Prime test
2. Reinstall graphics card and if necessary configure firmware for that device as primary display
3. See your manual please
Section 1-31

Voltage Checkpoints
These voltage checkpoints are used to measure the current system voltages.
A multimeter (not included) will be required to check voltages
The purpose of this exercise is to enable you to measure the voltages under load, rather than having to close windows and enter BIOS - UEFI firmware to then see voltages only at idle.

You can open the case leave the multimeter attached to one measuring point and then watch the voltage as you use the computer. If that remains steady try another measuring point etc.

I appreciate you may not have a multimeter but they are not that expensive.
You can get a reasonable one for less than £15 UK pounds.
You need a digital one.
It must be capable of measuring the DC voltage range - 12V

This is mine
https://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03144/digital-multimeter/dp/IN07522?CMP=TREML007-005
it has proved very reliable.

I have read the WHOLE of this and your earlier topic again and I am sure this is the way to go.
Alternatively if of course you have or can borrow another PSU then that MAY be easier for you


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Note please
I am offline from now until Sunday evening


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

No problem.

Would it be an issue if I didn't reinstall the graphics card, and used my friends spare 35ow PSU?


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

No that would be the better test for the PSU, rather than the test points


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Ok, just ordered it. Should take 3-5 days

What should I do with it when I get it? Do you have any guides I could follow?

Also, just out of curiosity, what are we testing errors for with this, the PSU, or something else?


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

I thought you were going to try the system with another PSU as per your post 77 and as I said on my post 75


Macboatmaster said:


> Alternatively if of course you have or can borrow another PSU then that MAY be easier for you


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Yes, but the only one that would be available to use would be the 350w psu which doesnt have any 8/6 pin connecters that id need to use my graphics card.


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Ok but as you were still getting crashes with the integrated graphics, try that PSU with those, as if it is the PSU they should not then occur
as you said


ErvinBoyes said:


> Would it be an issue if I didn't reinstall the graphics card, and used my friends spare 35ow PSU?


and I replied


Macboatmaster said:


> No that would be the better test for the PSU, rather than the test points


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

My mistake

Ill try that as soon as I can and let you know what happens.

In the meantime, should I test using the multimeter? As chances are that will arrive before I have access to another PSU


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Yes I would


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

The multimeter just arrived. Got any guides I can follow? I have no idea what I'm supposed to do lol


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Cheers I presume the PSU has not yet.
Set the multimeter on DC voltage 12v range
connect the positive red lead to the first testing point
connect the black lead to any earth eg the metal case of the chassis

From your manual
"These voltage check spots are for you to measure CPU and PCH voltages. To check
the voltage, please attach the positive lead of the multimeter to these spots and the
negative lead to any ground spot.
The GND spot is for checking earth eg case to motherboard NOT ON VOLTAGE BUT ON CONTINUITY but there is NO reason to believe that is faulty.
YOU may use it for the multimeter black lead on voltage range OR as I said metal of case

Spot Description

GND Ground
CPU_SA CPU SA (System Agent) voltage

CPU_RING CPU Ring voltage

CPU_GFX CPU integrated graphics voltage

CPU_CORE0 CPU core0 voltage

VCC_DDR DDR memory voltage

CPU_VCCIN CPU Input voltage

YOU really do need to download your manual if you do not have it and READ the section
Preferably you need someone to hold the leads in place multimeter off - while you then power on system and then turn multimeter on
Note voltage at first test point eg CPU SA
Use the system graphics etc, video stream\ing whatever and see if voltage remains steady

Carry out test on all points ensure multimeter OFF when changing test points
CAUTION do not let multimeter test probes touch any other places on board.

Then looking at section 1.17 of your manual and using the main power connection to the board test the 12V, 5V and 3.3V lines
you will see one point numbered 9 is marked 5v SB that is ON when computer is off. For such things as wake on keyboard - usb charging if so equipped. etc.
Again test 12v 5v and 3.3v for stability under lead conditions.

*CAUTION the procedure is SAFE providing you ensure you are using the correct points and YOU do not allow leads to touch other places.

This will help you
https://www.tomshardware.co.uk/power-supply-protection-calculate-consumption,review-32356-6.html*


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

I tried doing this today. I started by trying to measure the CPU_SA, but it seems my multimeter isn't working? The power was on but I was getting no reading.

As for the 24pin connector stuff, I've looked at the manual, and there are multiple 12v points. Do they all measure the same thing?

A question as well, if I use the black lead on the case chassis, if I then touch the case chassis is that an issue?


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

The computer must be running, not just power on to measure the voltage on the test points
It does not matter if you touch the case chassis
I meant do not allow the multimeter leads to touch other points on the board - very small risk, but you should avoid it.

There are only 2 12V points on the main power connector - numbered 10 and 11
IT is 99% certain that if one is reading correctly the other would not be
You should be looking for ON THE MAIN connection the following spec
*Voltage Rail* *Tolerance* *Minimum Voltage* *Maximum Voltage*
+3.3VDC ± 5% +3.135 VDC +3.465 VDC
+5VDC ± 5% +4.750 VDC +5.250 VDC
+12VDC ± 5% +11.400 VDC +12.600 VDC


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Ok I'll retry when I have time, but, the PC was on when I was trying to measure the voltages.


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Check with your multimeter on DC range - using a battery - any usual 12v battery AA, AAA, C, D etc that the multimeter is showing that voltage
What is make and model of the multimeter you bought.


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Not at home atm, so I can't tell you the exact model number, but its the one that you sent me


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Red lead far right port
Black lead next to it
dial on 12v DC which is white scale 2 to 3 on clock marked V.-.. at position 20
I am sorry to be so basic in case you find it insulting, but I presume you have switched multimeter ON with button above left of dial
and put 9v PP3 battery in multimeter - there are three screws on the back of the case - two lower left and right - third one above warning - that one I think when you first unpack it is covered by a circular label


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

I wondered how you were doing


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

I am concerned that you have not replied after such a long topic - is all OK
PLEASE let me know how things are


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## ErvinBoyes (Jan 21, 2019)

Sorry about not replying, I've been really busy the past couple of days, so I haven't really been thinking about my PC.

Anyways, I tested the multimeter with a battery, with it definitely on, and there was no reading.

I will be able to get a test PSU very soon so I can try that


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## Macboatmaster (Jan 15, 2010)

Have you put the battery in the multimeter the 9v PP3


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