# Solved: stray voltage from window A/C



## lexmarks567 (Aug 13, 2006)

Ok had another breaker start tripping every 30 minutes. on this one is 2 bedrooms a living room wall and a kitchen wall. remembering how i felt the 120 vibration at your fingertips a few weeks ago when installing the a/c i checked for stray voltage. from a frame screw on the a/c to the metel window frame in the next window got a reading of 120 volts. from the a/cs frame screw to a nail in the wall near the window got a reading of 60 volts unplugged the a/c no voltage reading anywhere on the windows.. so far since unplugging the a/c no more tripping for the past 2-3 days. the voltage was leaking and the unit wasn't even running.


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

Obviously, there's a fault in the A/C, time to get the screwdriver out and check if it's something obvious.


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## Drabdr (Nov 26, 2007)

Yea. Something is awfully wrong here. First, if there is that voltage present, there is no effective ground on the A/C. It should trip the breaker immediately; not 30 minutes later.

Like John said, you need to inspect the A/C unit. Unplug from the wall, and inspect the wires on the A/C. 

I haven't kept close tabs on all your posts. Do you have a ground for the power of your A/C? You should. 

If, you truly have 102VAC reading on the chassis of the A/C; you need to shut that off immediately until you can figure out why.

Again, pictures help. Unscrew the cover off the plug feeding the A/C and take a pic (make sure the breaker is off). Next, take a picture of the connector to the A/C. In the same PIC, you can take the connection cover off the A/C (where the power wires come in), so we can see how it is connected.

Now.... I know you're a sharp guy. But I have made this mistake multiple times myself. Be sure your meter is set for "A/C Volts". Other settings can give you all kinds of readings.


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## lexmarks567 (Aug 13, 2006)

took a picture of the wiring at the outlet. has a ground pigtailed with a brass crimp(is allowed by code) attached to the ground screw of the outlet. 2 white wires on the left side 2 blacks on the right. for this a/c i will work on tomorrow has i have to slide the whole thing out of the case. the case does not lift up like a car hood.


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## jiml8 (Jul 3, 2005)

Is that plug the plug for the AC?

As for the outlet, is there a ground wire connected to it? What I see of the wires look like old romex and might be a two wire service.

There is obviously a ground fault associated with the AC, and to charge the case there practically has to be a hot fault also, that is shorting (either hard or through a resistance) to the case. The electrical cord you show looks fairly new and in good shape. If it is typical of the complete AC unit, such a fault seems relatively unlikely (though that is what the symptoms say).

Looking closer at that outlet, I *think* I see a bare copper wire coming up to what *should* be a ground lug on the outlet. However that wire looks very dirty, and the connection - if I'm seeing it properly - looks green (ie: corroded). So, if you do indeed have a 3 wire system there, you need to remove that ground wire, shine it up, make sure the connection on the outlet is shiny, then reconnect it. This will promptly cause a circuit breaker to trip if the AC has a hot side fault, and you really, really want that to happen.

edit: Upon re-reading your post I see:



> outlet. has a ground pigtailed with a brass crimp(is allowed by code) attached to the ground screw of the outlet.


So you apparently have a ground wire coming to the outlet. Have you verified that it is a good ground? That is, a real ground - not floating because it is disconnected someplace else? Have you verified a low impedance path through the outlet to the plug?

The connection still looks green from here.


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## Drabdr (Nov 26, 2007)

Good post, Jim.:up:

Ok, let's talk about this crimp scenario. Are you saying that the ground wire providing the equipment ground for the plug is a pigtail off of the box or something? 

If so, they have tightened code up on that quite a bit. Actually, I'm not so sure you can even ground to the conduit with bonding jumpers and such. I would have to check code. 

Regardless, I have a feeling something is not grounded here. First, like Jim was suggesting, you really need to verify you have a good ground connected to the plug, and that it is a continuous ground to the rest of the grounding system. Make sense?

Maybe if you get a chance and can pull the plug out more for a better picture, that would help a lot.

Lex, thanks for the pics. It really helps seeing what you see.:up:


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## lexmarks567 (Aug 13, 2006)

how do i check for impedance you would have to tell me what to set the meter for and what to look for on the scale. i have replaced 1 outlet on this circuit and that ground wire is not a crimp connection. what they did is took the ground wire from the outlet and the ground wire from the wire going to the 2nd outlet and crimped the 2 wires together instead of having 2 wires on 1 screw. this is the meter i have

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103170

couldn't do anything today had to work but am off the next 2 days.


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## Drabdr (Nov 26, 2007)

lexmarks567 said:


> how do i check for impedance you would have to tell me what to set the meter for and what to look for on the scale. i have replaced 1 outlet on this circuit and that ground wire is not a crimp connection. what they did is took the ground wire from the outlet and the ground wire from the wire going to the 2nd outlet and crimped the 2 wires together instead of having 2 wires on 1 screw. this is the meter i have
> 
> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103170
> 
> couldn't do anything today had to work but am off the next 2 days.


Hello, Lex. As far as the meter, I tried to blow up the picture from the link, but could not view the dial. Essentially you turn the dial to Ohms, and sometimes (I can't tell on this meter), you have to move the leads to different ports.

Ok, given your description, YES, that's ok to have two ground wires tied together (make sure they are tied together well) with one pigtail connecting to the plug for the ground. :up:

If you are truly measuring voltage on the chassis, there is a ground loose somewhere.


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## lexmarks567 (Aug 13, 2006)

Drabdr said:


> Hello, Lex. As far as the meter, I tried to blow up the picture from the link, but could not view the dial. Essentially you turn the dial to Ohms, and sometimes (I can't tell on this meter), you have to move the leads to different ports.
> 
> Ok, given your description, YES, that's ok to have two ground wires tied together (make sure they are tied together well) with one pigtail connecting to the plug for the ground. :up:
> 
> If you are truly measuring voltage on the chassis, there is a ground loose somewhere.


not just measuring voltage but its leaking to the metel window frame next to it cause if i touch the screw and the window frame while the a/c is plugged in i feel the 120 and it hurts its like your hand is asleep but worse.


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## jiml8 (Jul 3, 2005)

The situation you describe is extremely dangerous, both electrocution AND imminent fire hazard.

Given the question you asked (how to set/use the meter) I think that you are not qualified to work on this, and I would advise you in the very strongest terms to consult with an electrician IMMEDIATELY. In the meanwhile, disconnect that air conditioner and DO NOT USE IT FOR ANY REASON. You also should leave that electrical circuit unused, and if feasible, turn it off at the breaker until the situation can be properly evaluated.

Speaking personally, I'm quite willing to steer someone who displays basic competence in this area through a diagnostic process, but you have left me with the clear impression that you lack that competence. The situation you describe is EXTREMELY dangerous - if you make a mistake it could kill you and if you don't address it immediately your house could burn down - and I think you should steer clear and farm the job to an expert.

Edit: 

I suspect multiple faults from the indicated symptoms, and I'm not convinced the AC is faulted (though it might be). Other possibilities include a hot-neutral reversal or neutral-ground reversal in some outlet on that circuit, possibly a worn wire in the wall, possible corroded neutral on another outlet or in the house service panel, or some combination in addition to the evident bad ground. 

Also, if some idiot grounded the cable TV system to a water pipe, and any portion of your home electrical system is also grounded to a water pipe, the resulting ground loop COULD be causing your symptoms. Many lazy and ill-trained cable company installation technicians do that exact thing.


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## K7M (Feb 27, 2000)

I would look at this the other way. Consider that the AC is a good ground, try to take a voltage reading from the metal window frame to another ground source, IE a water pipe. it's possible the wire has a nail or screw through it and is making the window frame "hot". I would use a neon type tester as the current needed to light them is minimal and all you need for ground is you touching the other lead with no danger of shock. also check the "polarity" of the plug that the AC is plugged into this is a link to the type tester for the "polarity"

http://www.harborfreight.com/electrical-receptacle-tester-with-gfci-diagnosis-32907.html


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## lexmarks567 (Aug 13, 2006)

ok i put the red test lead in the window frame and the black into the ground hole in one of the outlets. I get a reading of 120 but i do not feel it when touching it. the manual for the tester is stupid., all i know is to measure ohms or something you need to cut the power or else you will burn up the meter faster then light speed


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## K7M (Feb 27, 2000)

I would immediately shut off that circuit. You have power going to the window frame, and it has to be getting there through a screw or nail piercing a wire. You won't feel it just touching the frame because you are not touching ground, but with the AC plugged in the AC is the ground.
Jiml8 is correct, at this point get a pro.


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## antimoth (Aug 8, 2009)

lexmarks567 said:


> not just measuring voltage but its leaking to the metel window frame next to it cause if i touch the screw and the window frame while the a/c is plugged in i feel the 120 and it hurts its like your hand is asleep but worse.


In an earlier thread you started, I believe someone talked about doing the "tingle test", where an experienced old guy is able to touch his finger to a live wire and tell if a line is hot or not. Yes, some people know how to do that and get away with it, but it's something a amateur *OUGHT TO NEVER EVER DO*. There are just too many scenarios where you wind up dead doing this.



> ok i put the red test lead in the window frame and the black into the ground hole in one of the outlets. I get a reading of 120 but i do not feel it when touching it.


Please stop using your body as a test instrument. It doesn't have a fuse or circuit breaker. If it blows, you're gone.


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## K7M (Feb 27, 2000)

The tingle test you refer to is you touch ground and hot with the fingers of the same hand. the current will travel through the digits of your hand and tingle. You do NOT want to do it with fingers on one hand to the other hand, that WILL cause death. You do NOT want the current traveling through the path of the heart. 
Even though I know about this. I USE A TESTER.


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## lexmarks567 (Aug 13, 2006)

this is the gas line going in










no water pipes outside.

if it matters the white wire which leaves the phone box is rippped out of the house and just exposed(not needed anyway i got WOW phone service)


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## lexmarks567 (Aug 13, 2006)

so if its a bad ground somewhere how do i test. the manual is pretty much useless with the meter. all i know is the power needs to be off or you will fry the meter when measuring resistance. all windows have power that's the problem expect for the one over the kitchen sink. i don't have money for a pro something this is going to cost a bank loan.


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## Drabdr (Nov 26, 2007)

Hi Lex!

Right now, I'm awfully interested in that plug. With the breaker off, can you pull the plug out some more where we can see behind it?

NOTE: I'm going to assume that you did accurately measure voltage at the a/c frame. _Please_ don't plug that scenario back up. More than the other situation, if you cannot take care of this, please get someone out to look at it. That is highly unusual, and can damage your house, and more importantly... you.

In short, what you are describing is the very purpose of a ground. When a hot wire gets against something grounded, it instantly creates a huge resistance; thereby shooting the amperage up; thus tripping the breaker.

So in this situation, something is not grounded well (or grounded at all). So you have two issues: why is this not grounded, and why is a hot wire over on the A/C.

BTW... did this just start up recently? Has this ever worked correctly?


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## Drabdr (Nov 26, 2007)

lexmarks567 said:


> so if its a bad ground somewhere how do i test. the manual is pretty much useless with the meter. all i know is the power needs to be off or you will fry the meter when testing resistance


Yep. It will fry it pretty quickly. I've blown up two meters.

As far as testing the ground, we need to work piece by piece, and figure out what is going on. For me, I would like to start with that plug.


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

If you get voltage but no current, it's high resistance leakage somewhere. Of course, that could quickly turn into lethal low resistance leakage!


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## Drabdr (Nov 26, 2007)

JohnWill said:


> If you get voltage but no current, it's high resistance leakage somewhere. Of course, that could quickly turn into lethal low resistance leakage!


In the words of The Borg, Resistance is Futile.


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## lexmarks567 (Aug 13, 2006)

Drabdr said:


> Hi Lex!
> 
> BTW... did this just start up recently? Has this ever worked correctly?


it might have been like this sense i moved in cause when i install the window a/c and was outside putting rags around it to act like insulation i got shocked with 120. then a couple weeks later the breaker tripped off every 30 minutes and sense removing the window a/c it stopped doing that. could the outlets be wired backwards. its dark here now so will work on that tomorrow. the hot wire needs to go on the side with the small slot and the neutral on the side with the wide slot. one outlet on one wall has the ground close to the floor while the other has it facing up. those pictures are from the ground wire outside. i don't have any water pipes outside and i hate to crawl under the place.


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## jiml8 (Jul 3, 2005)

Did I hear you say that ALL your windows are charging up except the one by the kitchen sink????

And that house has metal siding from the look of it.

You are going to have a fire and probably soon. I cannot overstate the danger you face; it is real, it is imminent, and it will kill you.

I do understand the problem about money, but you simply can't play with this.

If you MUST look at it, you need to start inside your service panel and inside your meter panel, and make sure both grounds are connected and solid throughout. I see what looks like the house ground disappearing into what looks like the front (!) of your meter panel in one of your pictures; that particular arrangement is very funky and will encourage moisture intrusion into the meter panel, which could easily cause you a ground problem.

Actually, your pictures show a really hosed-up system.

Note that you may have problems with your electric company if you break their seal to open the meter panel. Check with them and see if they'll do it.


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

Hope you have good insurance.

Combined with the other issue that you had with another circuit breaker tripping you are sitting on a land mine

You need to determine what is more important the cost of an electrician to come out and determine what is wrong or your life and property


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

My suggestion would be to first call the electric [utility or provider] company and tell them that ALL your aluminum window frames are shocking you. They'll be right out to check their equipment...and it won't cost you one red cent.

When they come out to check their equipment you'll learn whether the problem is with the utility's equipment or the customer's equipment. Also, (if it's not a problem with the utility's equipment) you might be able to find out (from the utility tech) what/where the problem is.

I'd start with the utility company. It will be free and narrow done your search...

Where did you get the window A/C unit? How old is it? How long have you had it? Have you used it previously in another house? If so, did it ever trip a C/B or blow a fuse? Has it ever been worked on? If so, by whom?

I'd be curious to know if plugging and unplugging the A/C into the receptacle causes any of your lights to get brighter. If so, you have a high resistance Neutral joint or an open Neutral somewhere in your service or house wiring.

When the A/C unit is plugged-in (which you say energizes the window frame) I'd be curious to know what the reading is between the A/C's metal case and the receptacle's Ground wire. Also, what the reading is (at your receptacle's wiring) between the receptacle's Neutral wire and the Ground wire.

The two pictures that were posted (one of the receptacle with a plug and the other of just a plug only) looks like the plugs are different. I'm curious to know if these two plugs are indeed different and why pictures were taken of different plugs.


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

Lex - you're problem could be at a number of different areas. 

It could be the A/C unit, but if it's never been messed with (cord replaced, etc.) it's highly doubtful that the hot wire is energizing the A/C's case...and if it was - you'd also have to have a simultaneous problem with your circuit grounding. 

It could be at your utility service entrance, but that's unlikely because all connections are very well connected and the neutral and ground are very well bonded. However, some times there can be a deteriorated and poor connection of the ground bar caused by rust in watt-hour meter socket (or CT cabinet), which would normally be checked by the utility company when they come out to check their equipment. 

It could be a receptacle with a floating (unconnected) ground. Or a mis-wired receptacle with its ground not connected back at the source.

It could be that the hot wire (or the hot terminal of a receptacle) is touching a metal receptacle or switch box...and the box is providing conductive path to your window. Normally the box is bonded to ground or the grounded wiring device provides a low resistance ground...if the hot wire (or terminal) touches the metal box the circuit protector (C/B or fuse) will detect a high current fault and open the circuit. That said however, if you are lacking a proper ground your aluminum frame window could be energized by the hot wire (or terminal) touching the metal box "if" there is a conductive connection between the metal window frame and the metal electrical box. This so-called connection does not necessarily have to be a good connection - as it could be a high resistance connection even through damp wood, rusty nails or staples, etc. When trying to figure out such a problem as you have it is often the little bits of information that can really help. Things such as - the C/B sometimes trips when the humidity is high or after a rain, or the C/B sometimes trips when the A/C wasn't being used, etc., etc.

I'm curious - did you just recently move into this place, or have you lived there a long time? If you recently bought it - was the property inspected? Are you the owner, or are you renting/leasing? Are you legally responsible for this property? I'd say someone has a relatively high degree of liabilty exposure with this property.


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## lexmarks567 (Aug 13, 2006)

well i placed a ad for electricians and got 2 quotes so far.. one was a appliance place. the first place that called said it sounds like a problem with the main service panel. either the wires are crossed or there's a bad ground. he said about 85-120 to come out. the other place that called and is coming out is about $60 for the service call. the first guy also said to try edition. he said with this many windows reading voltage theres not really anything he can have me do over the phone to save money.


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## lexmarks567 (Aug 13, 2006)

another place called and sense i could not afford $85 right now he said to have someone test the voltage at the window frame and then shut the breaker off 1 x 1 untill the reading goes away. and then if there are any lights on that circuit check the boxes.


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

lexmarks567 said:


> another place called and sense i could not afford $85 right now he said to have someone test the voltage at the window frame and then shut the breaker off 1 x 1 untill the reading goes away. and then if there are any lights on that circuit *check the boxes*.


I have not followed your most recent electrical problem very closely. I was assuming you had already determined the problem is either the A/C or the circuit that powers the A/C. Haven't you already turned-off the C/B for the A/C receptacle and learned if the metal window frame still has voltage?

What about the boxes would you be checking?


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## lexmarks567 (Aug 13, 2006)

heres what i got. 2 different breakers are causing this. turn off 1 breaker one section of wall with windows stops reading voltage on the window frames. switch off another breaker another wall stops leaking voltage. 1 circuit controls 2 bedrooms a hallway wall and a living room wall. the other circuit controls another living room wall a closet bathroom 2 light fixtures. if i take a reading from the ground wire outside to a hole in the aluminum siding(bypassing the painted surface) i do not get a reading. same thing when using the gas pipe going inside the building has a ground. looking in the craw space i see some mutly color wire going along the beams and some kind of heat tape wrapped around a pipe and plugged in.


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

I think I'd sell that house and move quick! You seem to have major electrical issues all over the place!


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

johnwill said:


> i think i'd sell that house and move quick! You seem to have major electrical issues all over the place!


It makes me wonder how the electrical system in that house got so screwed up in the first place. I'm waiting for new threads pertaining to issues on plumbing, roofing, foundation, furnace, pests, etc.


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## hewee (Oct 26, 2001)

Does it have water coming out of the ceiling light sockets yet?


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## Drabdr (Nov 26, 2007)

Just to beat this horse to death, there are some non-negotiables. This is one of them. You need an electrician.

However, if you just simply will not call them, then I can try to muddle through this. I gotta be honest, though. I am concerned for your situation.

Ok, from your previous thread, is this the picture of the panel that has the breakers that are of interest?










What is that wire to the left, and where does it go? What does it connect to (on both ends)?

There is a serious grounding issue here (hence... the need for an electrician) . I'm wondering if this wire is _supposed_ to be grounding the panel.


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

Drabdr said:


> Just to beat this horse to death, there are some non-negotiables. This is one of them. You need an electrician.
> 
> However, if you just simply will not call them, then I can try *to muddle through this*. I gotta be honest, though. I am concerned for your situation.
> 
> ...


I wish you much success and good muddling! :up:


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

Koot said:


> I wish you much success and good muddling! :up:


You got worn out with the last exercise at Lexes didn't ya 

Like I said before it is a matter of priorities. That and having good insurance.

This is a disaster just waiting to happen.


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## lexmarks567 (Aug 13, 2006)

ok electrician came out. turns out a outlet in one of the bedrooms was wired wrong. hot on neutral neutral on hot causing it to back feed. problem solved no more reading.


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

I expect that's not the last of those you'll find. Reminds me of my first house, a "home handyman" owned it before me, I had to untangle a bunch of wiring and plumbing issues!


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## Drabdr (Nov 26, 2007)

lexmarks567 said:


> ok electrician came out. turns out a outlet in one of the bedrooms was wired wrong. hot on neutral neutral on hot causing it to back feed. problem solved no more reading.


Lex... I know it was hard for you to do that. But I would surmise it saved a lot of heartache.

I am still concerned, though. The windows frames should have been effectively grounded; thus it would have tripped immediately.

Did you happen to ask him/her about a ground?


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

lexmarks567 said:


> ok electrician came out. turns out a outlet in one of the bedrooms was wired wrong. hot on neutral neutral on hot causing it to back feed. problem solved no more reading.





Drabdr said:


> Lex... I know it was hard for you to do that. But I would surmise it saved a lot of heartache.
> 
> I am still concerned, though. The windows frames should have been effectively grounded; thus it would have tripped immediately.
> 
> Did you happen to ask him/her about a ground?


I still have concerns too, which leads me to the following questions...

Was this bedroom receptacle (that was wired wrong) the one the A/C unit was plugged into? If not, what was plugged into the incorrectly wired bedroom receptacle? Some type of load had to be plugged into the mis-wired receptacle for the receptacle to be able to backfeed voltage into the neutral. Why didn't the C/B trip?

I sure wish Lex had answered my question about the reading between the receptacle's Neutral wire and Ground wire. Also, if he had any lights that ever got brighter when the A/C was plugged-in or used. Much like when there is a floating neutral, a mis-wired receptacle's load can cause voltage to be applied to the neutral, which in turn causes lights to actually get brighter.

I'm not convinced his electrical problems are solved. Hell, his shower head may be wired for 277/480V 3Ø/4W directly from a 100KVA pole pig transformer!


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## JohnWill (Oct 19, 2002)

I'm sure we'll be hearing about the next wiring adventure soon.


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

JohnWill said:


> I'm sure we'll be hearing about the next wiring adventure soon.


I live not too far away and my son is a fireman so we have the police and fire radios on. I will let you know when I hear the house is on fire


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

wacor said:


> You got worn out with the last exercise at Lexes didn't ya


Hell, I'm still trying to recover. I spent three days in the psychiatric ward having tests run...and I'm still having nightmares!


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

Koot said:


> Hell, I'm still trying to recover. I spent three days in the psychiatric ward having tests run...and I'm still having nightmares!


:up:


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## Koot (Nov 25, 2007)

wacor said:


> I live not too far away and my son is a fireman so we have the police and fire radios on. I will let you know when I hear the house is on fire


Be careful - Lex and his mother may be looking for a place to stay...


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## jiml8 (Jul 3, 2005)

lexmarks567 said:


> ok electrician came out. turns out a outlet in one of the bedrooms was wired wrong. hot on neutral neutral on hot causing it to back feed. problem solved no more reading.


There has to be something else wrong. You must still have a ground fault.

However, it does seem like you have dealt with the most imminently dangerous problem.

I, for one, was reluctant to try to help you "muddle through" because I was concerned about potential liability if you killed yourself, given that your system was obviously in a dangerous state. However, if you are no longer getting shocked off of the windows, and if the AC work and doesn't shock you (or if it now is tripping breakers when you try to run it), then it could be you can start running down some of the other problems.

You do need to check your grounds, starting with the grounding cable and grounding rod for the building and working up into your circuits.


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## paisanol69 (Sep 7, 2005)

I have a sneaking suspicion, that once the electrician corrected the improperly wired outlet, he also "fixed" the ground fault that was causing the " electric windows " because there is a nail, or screw that is penetrating the outer metal siding of Lex's house ( it looks like the house has metal siding in one of the pics) and that same nail/screw is penetrating the neutral wire in a romex cable, that is connected to the outlet that had to be rewired. Lex mentioned that 2 of the breakers were affecting the "hot windows" when he was trouble shooting. There is a chance that the "hot" neutral ( now corrected) was creating a 220 volt situation, between the frame of the AC unit, and the window it is mounted in, when the AC unit was turned on. This could/might also explain why the breaker feeding the AC was not tripping immediately, once the AC was switched on.


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## jiml8 (Jul 3, 2005)

Seems to me that scenario would only work if there is a neutral fault upstream on the circuit that had the miswired outlet. Presumably the electrician would have found and corrected that as well, so I suppose what you say is possible.

However, the original symptoms are consistent with multiple faults, including a ground fault (and in an early post I suggested hot-neutral reversal as one of those faults).

So the current situation is that there is one possible scenario that *might* mean the system is fixed, and an indefinite number of possibilities that mean it isn't fixed. Unless the electrician did in fact check and verify proper grounding, I wouldn't be convinced the ground was OK. Especially after looking at some of those pictures.

I do wish OP would return and state that the electrician fixed everything.


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## Harrier-USA (Jun 16, 2010)

*I have read through this whole thread with great interest and it does amaze
me how total strangers can come together in these situations and offer their
support and recommendations. However, I am pleased that Lex took in the advise
to call someone out.
You can never be too careful with this volts and jolts stuff. Most house fires are 
caused by simple electrical faults.*


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## nightowl12259 (Dec 17, 2008)

K7M said:


> The tingle test you refer to is you touch ground and hot with the fingers of the same hand. the current will travel through the digits of your hand and tingle. You do NOT want to do it with fingers on one hand to the other hand, that WILL cause death. You do NOT want the current traveling through the path of the heart.
> Even though I know about this. I USE A TESTER.


you would really consider doing this ? wow and if your sweaty ? my god how dumb $9.99 will buy you a tester with a fuse in it


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## Vasily2010 (Aug 6, 2010)

Sounds like a problem I had. I eventually replaced the breaker with a brand new one due to the old one being tired and worn out. 
Solved the problem in a heart beat.
Hope that works
Cheers,
Craig


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## Vasily2010 (Aug 6, 2010)

Yikes, now that I've read the issue a little closer sounds like you got it fixed.
Glad you're not getting shocked anymore and can run AC safely.
Cheers,
V2010


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