# Setting up a home theater



## RedHelix (Oct 31, 2005)

Howdy,
My parents decided to splurge a few months ago and finally finish our basement. They're going to be setting up a bar, pool table, home theater system... the works. Now, me being the computer guy in the family who uses his TV tuner-equipped PC as a television, they're under the impression that I'm also an expert on plasma TVs, input devices and surround sound setups. Nnnnnnot so much. I have no idea how this stuff works, but I am trying to learn as quickly as possible.

So here's where my real dilemma starts:
Basically, we're going to have a 42" Plasma mounted on one wall, and a cabinet set up elsewhere in the room for the reciever, DVD player, game consoles, etc. I'm presuming that pretty much any DVD player or game console we buy will have RCA or S-video output. I need about 26 feet of cable to run a line from the TV to across the ceiling to down into the cabinet. So here's my set of questions:

1. How badly am I risking signal loss by using AV cables that long? What cables have you had a good experience with?

2. Which is a better move: Putting all of my input devices (DVD, XBox, etc) on an AV switch, (thus running one set of RCAs and one S-Video across the ceiling,) or having each device run into the TV individually? If a switch is a better idea, do I need a really high-end switch to bring out the best picture on this TV?

3. We have narrowed our choice down to the TV I hyperlinked above, but we are still lost in terms of shopping for a sound system. We are looking for a small set of speakers that can all be mounted on the walls except for maybe the front speaker. (We are building square pillars around the round support beams down there, and I suggested we mount the speakers out of those pillars. It stuck.) Any recommendations?


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## Wolfeymole (Jun 18, 2005)

Try http://www.avtalk.co.uk/ Red


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## gotrootdude (Feb 19, 2003)

I can give a few recommendations based on personal experiences, but how you design it is up to you.

It's easier for me to list each component in terms of functionality provided.

*1. DVD/DVR/PVR/Audio/Home automation/security. *
I'd use a PC to handle this. 
You can use a windows PC, which can run MCE, Meedio, Snapstream, or MediaPortal as software (all of which have home automation plug-ins). You could use a linux PC, which could run mythTV, with zoneminder (home-automation/security). I'm currently in the process of building a mythtv setup for a client, I believe the main advantage of mythtv over MCE is better commercial skip and support for cheap software encoding tuner cards.

I'd probably use a Windows MCE machine. Because:
1. the tapi caller-id add-on, the new SIP phone add-on, the MCE-contacts plug-in, GameEx, etc.
2. Ease of setup

You don't need a loud, huge, super-powerful machine for this. I'd recommend picking out a micro-atx or SFF case, a decent mobo, a athlon64, a large hard drive, and a 6800 video card. Be aware that most mATX cases are very anemic on power supplies, and either choose your components based on power consumption, or find one that meets your requirements. My favorite SFF case is my Aspire Qpack ($79 at newegg) because a full sized replacement power supply fits in it, and it looks good.

*2. Cable runs.*
I'd use Monster cable DVI or RGB cables. Svideo isn't for long cable runs. Your display 'should' have DVI-I input. Don't settle for DVI-A (Analog), or just S-video connectors. S-video can be used if necessary, but really isn't ideal due to the cable run length.

You should also try to match the highest native resolution of the screen with your video card's output as part of the setup. Both ATI and Nvidia have special drivers for MCE to make the job of making the picture look good on your display.

* Switching input.
I'd use a RF modulator with RGB inputs and outputs to switch the display on the TV automatically based on the powered component. Put the modulator after the PC, with the Xbox plugged into it, when the XBOX is powered, the display switches to it automatically.

3. Remote control
The remote for a home theater is probably the MOST important component. If it's not easy to use, the best made system is junk. 
 I based my recommendations on price vs performance in this area. There definitely are better remote options, but the price goes up substantially
I would purchase a microsoft MCE remote from newegg. You don't have to stay with that remote(it can be a spare), and it's not an optimal remote, but it's really the only way to get the receiver which is supported out of the box with almost all home theater software. 
For the actual remote, I'd recommend a Logitech Harmony 680, which would give you expanded functionality. ($121 at newegg)

For keyboard and mouse options, see my review on HTPC keyboards here: http://forums.techguy.org/reviews/439317-review-htpc-keyboards-gyration-vs-btc-vs-mediapilot.html

4. Gaming accessories
Wireless gamepads for gaming consoles are a must. For the PC, if used for gaming as well, I recommend using Saitek P3000 wireless controllers ($29 at circuitcity), and a gyration suite. If you don't plan on gaming with the PC, the BTC keyboard I reviewed would be a better choice

(there is a bug with the P3000 controllers you should know about: If you open the rechargeable battery cases, you should trim the plastic around the + side of the batteries inside so they make better connection, otherwise you might find that they don't charge. It's a design flaw, but easily remedied.)

5. Speakers
Some people may argue with me on this, but I don't believe the average person needs to spend a fortune to get good sound.

I'd recommend a set of 500W Logitech z-5450 digital 5.1 surround speakers for around $300. They sound great, and the rear speakers are wireless so should save you some trouble with installing.

To find the approximate optimal speaker locations, divide the room into thirds. The speakers should be placed as close as possible to where the lines intersect. A good rule of thumb as to the height the speakers should be, is to take the height of the sitting viewer, then knock off 20%, or just use the third rule and place the speakers 1/3 the height of the room.  the worst place for the speakers is against the walls*


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## Deathblow (Oct 7, 2003)

If your not deadset on the Plasma, may I suggest maybe a projector? A friend of mine has a similar setup to what your looking at, but has a Huge screen against the one wall and uses a projector connected to a spare computer with a TV tuner. The advantage of this is you can also play games or mp3s etc through the system, and it's HUGE.

As for speakers, Walmart just had a sale on a set of 1000 Watt Pioneer Home theatre that were mighty tempting for $200. I also noticed that places like BJ's and Costco usually have some good deals on that type of stuff. 

Now most newer setups have multiple channels built in, for instance, my TV has 4 or 5 separate inputs for VCR, DVD, Computer, Etc.

As for cables, I had a setup before that had the Tv on one corner of the room hooked to a computer in the other, the 2 were about 30 feet apart, and I found running Coax for the signals gave me the least loss and cut out all interference.


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## gotrootdude (Feb 19, 2003)

> If your not deadset on the Plasma, may I suggest maybe a projector? A friend of mine has a similar setup to what your looking at, but has a Huge screen against the one wall and uses a projector connected to a spare computer with a TV tuner. The advantage of this is you can also play games or mp3s etc through the system, and it's HUGE.


I agree with the projector. It can offer much higher resolution, better response rates, and much better viewing angles. I've been building a portable projector based on a PS1 LCD, and so far it's work very good up to around 50 inches.


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## gotrootdude (Feb 19, 2003)

Coax cabling is available with RGB:
http://www.ramelectronics.net/html/hdtv-cables.html


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## wacor (Feb 22, 2005)

FYI

My undertstanding based on a salesmans comments and looking at a plasma in a store is that you get a good picture no matter the angle. and comparing it to the nearby dlp and lcd units there was an obvious difference. as to Plasma itself you are paying a premium and just check out the life expectancy. on dlp and lcd you get 3 years or so out of the bulb and that is a $300 bill to replace they say. older Plasmas i understood had a 5 year life cycle but one i saw in a store was rated at enough hours to last 10 years as i recall. not sure what the unit you have choosen is rated but you need to verify that it is not an older one as to the design life expectancy.

enjoy, it is worth it no matter what you get. you just missed the boat though by not doing this before the Olympics. The ski jumping and ski racing was really something in hi def.


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## bobniborg (Mar 10, 2006)

Notes from me (not to bright but I did some looking into this when I did my house).

Do you really need the plasma (whose main advantage is size). For far cheaper you can get a rear projection that is equal in quality. As for projectors. This is great if you are not doing TV watching. The main cost on those little projectors is the bulb. And they burn up fast.

For surround sound, most systmes are fine. I bought a sony system for 200 that has a sub and 5 shelf speakers. If you are buying a unit that has an amp, look at the inputs. If you need 5.1 sound (digital input) for you DVD, Xbox, etc. you need to make sure that the amp has the inputs for that. 

That is my two cents.


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## kevblah (Mar 10, 2006)

This looks like a nifty deal. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AMNZ6E/ref=nosim/104-2112631-3467968?n=172282


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## keyser.soze (Mar 26, 2006)

Red ... if you're still looking for a solution, here's my two cents.

I also have a 42" Plasma (Panasonic) and home theater setup (Yamaha). I have run all of my components into the receiver (DVD burner, CD changer, VHS, TiVo and Cable) and one set of cables to the plasma. I have found it to be the best of all worlds, and I have connected the video with a DVI cable and a set of component video cables. Not that it is important, but the audio connection is optical from the cable source and the dvd.

I didn't splurge on Monster cables ... truth be told, I bought mine on eBay (saved $100 at that length).

I don't know if this will work in your case, but perhaps you can extract something that is helpful. Hope this helps.


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