# Solved: CD/DVD drive causing blue screen of death



## 2talll (May 1, 2004)

When I try using the drive to import music off a CD or to play a DVD after a few minutes the system crashed. Any ideas why?


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## etaf (Oct 2, 2003)

do you get the stop code and any filenames on the bluescreen.
as a guess it maybe a video driver, however, would be good to know the errors above


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## 2talll (May 1, 2004)

Can't read what the screen says before the computer shuts off. Would reading the technical info that it puts in the temp folder following the shut down be of any help? I can check that tonight- I'm off to work.


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## etaf (Oct 2, 2003)

does it reboot - theres a setting to alter that.

goto
control panel>
system>
advanced tab>
startup and recovery - settings>
under the title - system failure
untick - automatically restart


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## 2talll (May 1, 2004)

OK, I'll fix that and when it happens again, I'll see what it says. Thanks


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## etaf (Oct 2, 2003)

you need to set that condition up before it happens - so instead of flashing a blue screen and then rebooting, it will stop with just the blue screen displayed and then you need to manually reboot/switch off


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## 2talll (May 1, 2004)

Yeah, I know. I already changed it so when I'm messing around with CDs tonight I'll see if it happens again.

This mght sound like a dumb question, but if it's the video driver itself wouldn't the same thing happen when I am burning DVDs? I can burn them fine- it's only when the DVD info is being transferred to my hard drive or played and when the CD's songs are being imported. Not to smart when it comes to the inside of the computer.


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## etaf (Oct 2, 2003)

it was just a guess - we should know more on the stop code and hopefully a filename


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## 2talll (May 1, 2004)

Ok, it just happened again. I was trying to back up a DVD for my brother and while DVDShrink was doing tha analizing it crashed.

Here's what the blue screen said: 
A problem has occured..........windows shut down to prevent damage.........

DRIVE_IQRL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL

Tech info:
STOP: 0x000000D1 (0x0000000c, 0x0000000z, 0x00000000, 0xf7e32424)

smwdm.sys- address F7E32424
base at F7E1A000
datestamp 3f5f6eba

I have the system data from the temp file saved but I can't upload it- it's too big to attach.

Any ideas? Thanks


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## etaf (Oct 2, 2003)

looks like the sound driver.
I would suggest reloading your sound driver.

we need to know the make/model of soundcard or if its intergrated into motherboard make model of motherboard

here are some programs which should identify the sound
use on of these

http://www.belarc.com

online scan
http://www.d-a-l.com/hardware-scan.php

Great standalone program with pdf and email output
http://www.pxserver.com/WinAudit.htm

and post back info


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## 2talll (May 1, 2004)

-------------------------------------------------------

OS Information:
PropertyValue
OS Name Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition|C:\WINDOWS|\Device\Harddisk0\Partition1
Service Pack 2.0
OS Manufacturer Microsoft Corporation
Windows Directory C:\WINDOWS


Processor:
PropertyValue
Current Clock Speed 1596
Description x86 Family 15 Model 2 Stepping 9
Manufacturer GenuineIntel
Name Mobile Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 2.80GHz


Memory (RAM):
PropertyValue
Bank Label Bank 0
Capacity 268435456

Bank Label Bank 0
Capacity 268435456

Total Memory Deteced in Hardware: ~512 MB
Memory Reported to Operating System: 511MB

Disk Drives:
PropertyValue
Description Disk drive
Manufacturer (Standard disk drives)
Model IC25N080ATMR04-0
Media Type Fixed hard disk media
Size 80023749120 (~75 GB)
Number of Partitions 1

Description Disk drive
Manufacturer (Standard disk drives)
Model WDC WD16 00BB-22GUA0 USB Device
Media Type Fixed hard disk media
Size 160039272960 (~149 GB)
Number of Partitions 1


Installed Printers:
PropertyValue
Name Macromedia FlashPaper
Port Name FlashPaper2PrinterPort
Default True
Driver Name FlashPaper2 Driver


Motherboard:
PropertyValue
Manufacturer Hewlett-Packard 
Model 
Name Base Board
Part Number 
Product 0898
Serial Number þþþþþþþþþþABCDEF 
Version 31.45


BIOS:
PropertyValue
Manufacturer Hewlett-Packard 
Name Ver 1.00PARTTBL
Release Date 20050406000000.000000+000
Version PTLTD - 6040000


Monitor:
PropertyValue
Description Default Monitor
Name Default Monitor
Screen Height 800
Screen Width 1280


Keyboard:
PropertyValue
Description Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard


Pointing Device:
PropertyValue
Manufacturer Alps Electric
Name Alps Pointing-device

Manufacturer (Standard system devices)
Name USB Human Interface Device


Sound Card:
PropertyValue
Manufacturer Analog Devices, Inc.
Description SoundMAX Integrated Digital Audio
Device ID PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4341&SUBSYS_006B103C&REV_00\3&61AAA01&0&A5


Video Card:
PropertyValue
Adapter Compatibility ATI Technologies Inc.
Adapter RAM 67108864
Description MOBILITY RADEON 9200
Installed Display Drivers ati2dvag.dll
Driver Version 5.2.3790.2
Driver Date 10/8/2003 3:41:00 AM
Video Mode Description 1280 x 800 x 4294967296 colors


DirectX Installation:
PropertyValue
Version 6.03.01.0148


Modem:
PropertyValue
Model Agere Systems AC'97 Modem
Name Agere Systems AC'97 Modem


Network Adapters:
PropertyValue
Description Realtek RTL8139 Family PCI Fast Ethernet NIC - Packet Scheduler Miniport
Description 1394 Net Adapter
Description RAS Async Adapter
Description Packet Scheduler Miniport
Description WAN Miniport (L2TP)
Description WAN Miniport (PPTP)
Description WAN Miniport (PPPOE)
Description Direct Parallel
Description WAN Miniport (IP)
Description WAN (PPP/SLIP) Interface
Description Packet Scheduler Miniport
Description Broadcom 54g MaxPerformance 802.11g - Packet Scheduler Miniport
Description Packet Scheduler Miniport
Description WAN Miniport (ATW)
Description 1394 Net Adapter

External Ports:
PropertyValue

Expansion Slots:
PropertyValue
Slot Designation PCI Slot J29
Slot Designation PCI Slot J30
-------------------------------------------------------


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## 2talll (May 1, 2004)

Maybe this is a dumb question, but could the RealPlayer upgrade I downloaded a while back be the cause of this? Would it be easier to uninstall RealPlayer than to deal with trying to fix the sound driver? Just a thought


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## etaf (Oct 2, 2003)

maybe.. but the corruption may already have taken place...

as its an HP - it would be better to get the sound driver off there website - they are quite good at having drivers on there site

so model of HP PC
and windows version XP, win98 ???


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## 2talll (May 1, 2004)

Here's the info from the service tag:
zx5000
windows xp home edition
s/n CND4032QXJ
p/n DS4724#ABA

Then there's a little tag saying ZX5070us


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## etaf (Oct 2, 2003)

you will see the driver here
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...=384597&lang=en&cc=uk&softwareitem=ob-26986-1

fixes issues with DVD bluescreen



> Installation Instructions
> 
> 1. Download the SoftPaq .EXE file to a directory on your hard drive.
> 2. Execute the downloaded file and follow the on-screen instructions.
> ...


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## 2talll (May 1, 2004)

OK, thanks. I'm downloading it now. Probably won't get to running it until after the UNC game (priorities, lol) so I'll let you know how it turns out later.

BTW, I see about the photography passion si I'll see if you can help me out with a question I have. I currently have a FujiFilm 5000 and my problems are that the light in the gym I teach in isn't bright enough to use the zoom much at all and it's really hard to "time it" just right to tak action photos because it'll either be too slow or out of focus.

I'm thinking of upgrading to a new camera- I saw the Canon Digital Rebel XT EOS 8MP Digital SLR Camera w/ 1.8" LCD and the Fujifilm FinePix S9000 Digital Camera on the shopathome network and am thinking of getting one. IF I get the Fuji would it be any better with the focus problem? I can always get an extra flash to attach to the top I'm asusming since it has the bracket so I guess that would solve the lighting issue.

I've never had an slr before so I'm not too sure about going the extra mile for the Canon. The 18-55 lens would only be about a 2x zoom, correct. So I'd have to spend the extra money for a better lense- they have the Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III Telephoto Zoom SLR Lens which I assume would be a good lense to have.

I'll post on the board in your sig later, but maybe you'd be able to help me out before I start taking advice from too many people.

Thanks again for all the help


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## etaf (Oct 2, 2003)

whats your budget to spend - the dslr will always be better as you have lots more flexibility / choice - however, that also means more bucks   or in my case ££££

have a look at steves reviews - he has great conclusions 
they also post example images 
http://www.steves-digicams.com/

compare you current camera, and see what his conclusion is on that camera and if you agree and then read the other cameras
theres also a digital photosection here.... as well as DPforum and then the canon forum POTN
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/usercp.php?

just to confuse you more -

but post a max price - at least we know what you want to do 
I'll post more info later / tomorrow

good luck with driver


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## 2talll (May 1, 2004)

Thanks, I'll look at the stuff later on tonight. 
The price doesn't really matter- they're both on the shopathome site and the way have the payments broken down i'd be paying about 250 for 3 months for the Fuji and 250 for 5 months for the Canon and the lense- but by then I'll have an extra job over the summer (I'm a teacher so I'll still be getting my teaching salary as well as the full time check from the summer camp I'll be working at so it won't be a big deal.


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## etaf (Oct 2, 2003)

the fuji looks very good - but all these compact cameras do have some shutter lag, unless you prefocus - you wont beat a DSLR for that, although you can capture action - I have the canon PRO1 compact and have caught action see my gallery on DPForums. - but it was a lot harder than with my EOS5 film camera - i guess i missed 1 shot in 30 on the eos5 - pro1 miss about 4 in 10 shots once haviong worked out the action and placement etc.
The downside to the DSLR will be the kit you need as you said another lens and both these lenses are quite slow - so you will need higher ISO settings to capture lowlight. { i decided on leaving all my FILM EOS kit behind when I went digital and just purchased the PRO1 for its compactness } 


> *S9000*
> Shutter delay, the elapsed time between releasing the shutter and capturing the image, measured a very good 1/10 second when pre-focused, or 6/10 second including autofocus time. The S9000's viewfinder contributed a bit less than 1/10 second to the measured delay; because it has no optical viewfinder, you'll have to adjust your timing for the slight delay while the S9000 presents the live electronic image on either the LCD or EVF. Shot-to-shot delay averaged about 1 second without flash, and between 2.5 and 8 seconds depending on subject distance.





> *REBEL XT*
> Shutter lag from a pre-focused condition was less than 1/10 second, while lag including the time to autofocus on a high contrast subject measured 2/10 second. In Single shooting mode, the XT was able to capture over 30 Large/Fine images at 4/10 second intervals, then slowing to 6/10 intervals; its RAW performance slowed to 7 images at 4/10 intervals with subsequent images captured at about 1.2 second intervals. Flash recycle time was good, ranging between 1 and 3.5 seconds depending on subject distance.


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## 2talll (May 1, 2004)

Maybe what I should do is post some pictures on that message board and ask for advice- is there a way to post the picture WITH the camera settings? I know I had a picture viewing program in the past that showed all the settings used for the picture but I can't remember which program it was.

Prefocus question- do you focus on where the subject is going to be or focus on the subject and follow it to when you take the picture. I've tried both ways and I end up getting blurry pictures, even when the subject is a 1st grader doing a cart-wheel, in other words 'not really action- more sow motion. The pictures I tried to get at a basketball game came out aweful, they players were moving way too fast.

I've tried changing the ISO setting on the Fuji 5000 and although the pictures come out clearer the giant shadow on the wall in the background from the subject ruins the pictures.

Can you give me you email adress so we can stay in contact that way? Faster and easier than using the message board IMO. MIne's [email protected]


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## etaf (Oct 2, 2003)

i would not put emails into forums - major source for spam.

my email should be available for the drop down on my name.

if you post an image with EXIF data init - that will come out on the forum.
I also have a IE addin which means I can right click on an image and see the EXIF info about the image.
Just be aware
If you use photoshop and use save for web - the exif info is removed to save space

i'll come back and answer the points here - its useful to use the posts as this gives you a lot of different peoples views not just one person through email - and with photography there are a lot of different ways to achive the same result - so more people contributing can be very useful way to learn.

edit:
OK - 
you need to prefocus on where they are going to be, 
however, to give you an idea of getting over camera shake
1/effective focal length

so what that means on you fuji 
http://www.steves-digicams.com/2003_reviews/fuji_s5000.html


> equivalent to a 37-370mm on a 35mm camera


so when you are at the 37mm wide angle end you can get away with 1/37 as a shutter speed - so that would be 1/60th sec
however, as you go up the scale towards 370mm then 1/370 - would need a shutter speed of 1/500th which indoors would be very very fast and unlikely to be had on that camera. - note this is just a guide to avoid camera shake on still subjects - and fast moving subjects would need a different technique panning or very fast shutter speed to freeze the action.
Now all cameras will be like this, with a few excepions, those that have some form of vibration reduction - Canon call it IS I think Nikon call it VR - the canon S2IS and S3IS have it on the compacts - the Nikon 8800 have VR - so with VR or IS you can normally gain 2 stops - so instead of having to have a shutter speed of 1/500th you would be able to use 1/125th instead - so letting more light in. On the Lenses they have IS or VR as part of the camera code identification.

so on the S9000 you can see how they try to support this situation


> Real Photo Technology reduces the amount of graininess (noise) in digital pictures. This noise is often apparent in high-resolution photos, particularly those shot at high ISO-equivalent sensitivities. With Real Photo Technology, the S9000 can take pictures at ISO 1600 -- at full resolution. The Anti-blur mode uses this higher sensitivity to select faster shutter speeds to prevent blurring from camera shake or subject movement. The Natural Light mode lets you shoot in low-light situations without using the flash, handy in places that prohibit flash photography. Other benefits of Real Photo Technology include speed of operation; the S9000's start-up time is only 0.8 seconds with a shutter lag of just 1/100 second and longer battery life.


But higher ISO often bring noise - although you can get noise reduction software

so how does all that leave you with your choice - nowwhere I guess   - but thats upto you to make with as much info as possible.


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## 2talll (May 1, 2004)

I'll have to do some more digging, but I think I'm going to go with the Fuji. If the 9000 has features that fix the problems I have with the current one then I think I'll just stick with the brand I'm comfortable with. Plus, if the zoom lenses for the Canon are slow, then I'll continue to have the same problems.



I'll eventually get around to posting some of the pics on the other board (I'll put a link on here) so maybe you guys can give me some suggestions to make that camera work better for me. I have a feeling I'm missing something because I have an older Fuji (can't remember the number right now but it's basically an older version of the 5000 but silver) that didn't have the movement problems so I imagine there's something I can adjust.

Thanks again for all the help.


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## etaf (Oct 2, 2003)

you can buy fast canon lenses - cost more.

Back to the POST 
how did you get on with the driver.


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## 2talll (May 1, 2004)

LOL, I COULD buy faster lenses but I'm not that into. cheaper camera without having to buy more expensive lenses might just be the deciding factor.

The driver seems to be working fine now. I've checked a couple DVDs and didn't have the problem. Only problem I had was I couldn't burn a CD- it would get 5 seconds away from finishing and I'd get an error message saying it couldn't finish the writing process. Found out the DVD burning software was still running in the background so I'm assuming that was the problem. Once I totally shut it down, I was able to burn the CD.


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## etaf (Oct 2, 2003)

good to know 
maybe you could repost your photographic question, in the photo section here or dpforums and we can pic up any further questions etc there

Would you now mark this thread solved - which you have the power to do from your first post.
goto 
Thread tools>
Tick - Mark Solved

Thanks :up:


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